Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Denali Sango-Oichan 7 caches at 16,000 feet

Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Denali Sango-Oichan 7 caches at 16,000 feet. May 18, 2005: Hi this is Andy Rich calling for Team Denali Sango-Oichan-7 with the Tuesday, May 17th update. Well after a rest day yesterday and a terrible forecast for today we woke up and it actually wasn’t so bad. It was snowing but there was no wind at all, visibility wasn’t that good but no wind and fairly mild temperatures. So we decided to go ahead and head on up the fixed lines, we headed up towards 16,000 feet to go cache a load of gear and acclimatize a bit. We made our way up there, and there was hardly anyone else there at all, low visibility, but not a lick of wind, which was really quite pleasant.

The snow is laying down a fresh coat of paint on the slopes, so it was like walking through an extra thick shag carpet, really quite pleasant. We got up to 16,000 feet, dug a big hole, dumped a bunch of food and fuel in there and then just sat around for an hour or so, breathing in the thin air and enjoying ourselves. It was a really pleasant day, we’re climbing safe, having fun and that’s about it for today. Over and out.

Team 4 at 10,000 feet.: May 17, 2005: Hey there friends and family, this is team Multiplying Forces reporting in from Kahiltna Pass at 10,000 feet. We just did our carry up to here, everybody is doing super, it’s a good strong team, everybody is getting along well and pulling their weight so we’re looking forward to a great trip. The weather right now is actually socked in, we can’t see more than a hundred yards, but yesterday was clear and sunny and hot, so it’s kind of nice for the change a little bit because of the hard work we are doing. So we’ll talk to you tomorrow when we move on up to the 11,000 foot camp. Just one quick message sent out from Igor, he wants to tell Geraldo’s brother Happy Birthday. We’re signing off for now, ciao.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

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