Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Hunkered down at High Camp

Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Don't Panic settled in Camp II
May 27, 2005    
Hey everybody it’s Friday the 27th and this is Alpine Ascents Team #5, Don’t Panic. We pulled into Camp II yesterday at 11,200 feet, we navigated through a pretty good whiteout and set tents up in a snowstorm. They did pretty well, I’m pretty psyched on how strong this team is, they’re all enthusiastic about climbing, having fun and laughing a lot. So the team is doing great.

Today we had a huge breakfast and did a back carry down to 10,000 for the rest of our food and fuel and hopefully if the weather cooperates we’ll carry up to around Windy Corner tomorrow. Our forecast looks like it is going to be windy and snowy and so that might delay us a little bit, but once we get around the corner we’ll give you an update on our progress. This is Eric Larson signing off.

Multiplying Forces resting at 14.2
May 26, 2005    
Howdy folks this is Todd with Team Multiplying Forces calling in from Camp 14.2. Today we took a layover day which was much needed after our carry up yesterday, people were tired and ready to rest, but we didn’t rest all day, we built some big snow walls here because the wind was howling, it snowed a little bit last night and the forecast is for more of the same for the next couple of days. So unless the weather changes or doesn’t go along with what is predicted, we will probably be here at 14.2 for another day at least. But we’re keeping our fingers crossed and we are always ready to go at the drop of a hat. So if it changes we will be moving up and we will keep you informed. So keep watching for our progress, see you later.

Cheeseburgers in Paradise Hunkered down at High Camp
May 26, 2005    
Greetings cyberworld reporting in for Team Cheeseburgers in Paradise. Hey folks we are up here at High Camp, Camp V and we have some weather. We are currently hunkered down with some big fat snow walls and enduring some pretty good winds up here, so we’re hoping to see a better forecast in the next couple of days. Yesterday was our rest day, everyone is doing great up here and today we’ve had lots of chess and card games going on and lots of hot drinks. So we’re ready for action as soon as the weather allows, right now we are just enjoying ourselves and relaxing. We’ll keep you updates, Eric out.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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