Team 7 caches at 10,200, name
still a mystery.
May 31, 2005
Hello this is Alpine Ascents Team #7 at the top of the Kahiltna Glacier at
10,200 feet. In spite of weather conditions not allowing us to fly the first
day, putting us a day behind, we did a strong carry from 7,100 feet today,
cached here at the top of the glacier. The team has decided on a name,
suitable since the team is all-male, and the name is: (transmission fails)
Until tomorrow, signing out.
Mixed Nuts caches at 14,000
May 31, 2005
Happy Tuesday, this is Forrest McCarthy with Mixed Nuts. We are up on the
14,000 foot side of Windy Corner. We’ve been carrying today, Kind of warm but
a lot of fresh snow, hard trail-breaking, it’s over knee deep all the way up
here, everybody did a great job breaking trail getting up here. We’ve been
fortunate that it has not been too windy here but it’s still kind of cool.
Other than that everyone is doing really well and weather permitting we’re
going to be moving up to Camp 14,200 feet tomorrow. We will be calling in
tomorrow and letting you guys know how we’re doing. If we don’t call in
tomorrow it’s because we’re stuck at 11 waiting for the weather to clear, but
the forecast looks good, so we’re hoping to move up to Camp III tomorrow, talk
to you all then, bye bye.
Cheeseburgers in Paradise
return to Talkeetna Safely
May 31, 2005
Hey good morning cyberworld, this is Eric Murphy reporting in for Team
Cheeseburgers in Paradise. Well folks this will be our final cybercast for our
trip, the third trip of the year on Denali, and I’m happy to report in from
Talkeetna on Tuesday May 31st. We just had our first breakfast back in
civilization at the Road House, the famous standard and we’re celebrating our
trip and looking forward to getting back to lives and careers.
So just a recap for you. Sunday was our second summit attempt which was also
unfortunately unsuccessful, we had one prior to that on Friday and both times
we met unfortunately with high winds, too high to continue on with the danger
of getting frostbite and other cold injuries. So we turned around and folks
were feeling really good about the fact that we were up at high camp for six
days and gave it our best shot. That’s just the mountain weather for you. So
everyone made it back safely and we consider the trip a success. So Mark and I
are going to have a week off and we are going to be back with Denali Team #8
beginning on June 8. Thanks to friends and family and everyone who is
following our trip, we’ll see you next time, ciao.
Don't Panic retrieves cache
and rests at 14.2
May 30, 2005
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson giving you a call from 14,000 foot camp and
this is Team Don’t Panic. Today is the 30th and we had a pretty mellow day
today. We just went back down to the Windy Corner and picked up the rest of
our supplies of food and fuel, brought them back up to our camp at 14.2. Today
was sort of cloudy and cold and we pretty much did some skills, practicing
fixed lines and running belays and we’re getting ready to go up the fixed
lines tomorrow and drop some gear off at 16,200 foot cache. And get
acclimatized. We’ll give you a call tomorrow and tell you how it went and the
weather sounds like it is going to be breaking soon so we should be in good
position for a summit push in the next week. Until then we will give you a
call tomorrow, this is Eric signing off.
Multiplying Forces still
waiting for good weather.
May 30, 2005
Hey there this is Multiplying Forces calling in again from Camp 17.2. Today we
did not go to the summit as planned, we woke up to clear skies, but high
winds. Way too high winds peed to go for the summit, there were a couple of
groups that did try and they said at Denali Pass they were being blown off
their feet, so we are happy that we didn’t try. We took another rest day and
hopefully it will just make us stronger for tomorrow if the weather cooperates
with us. We have tomorrow, and Wednesday. Wednesday would be our final day and
we hope we get a weather window before then. We’ll keep you informed and talk
to you later, bye.
Mixed Nuts retrieves cache at
May 30, 2005
Hello cyberworld, family and friends, this is Duane from the Mixed Nuts. Today
is Monday, yesterday on Sunday we successfully made it up to Camp II at 11,200
feet and today we are back down at our cache at Kahiltna Pass at 9,800 feet,
the windy Kahiltna Pass, to pick up our cache which we left a couple of days
ago and we’re going to carry it on up to 11.2. Tomorrow the plan is to cache
gear, fuel and food up at 14,000 feet at Camp III and come back down and spend
another night at 11.2. And the following day, our plan, if the weather hold
for us, we’ll take us all the way up to 14 and move camp and acclimatize there
for a couple of days. The next cybercast will be from 14 Camp. Everybody is
doing well, yesterday we pushed quite efficiently up to 11.2 and were greeted
by patches of sunshine and blowing snow and it blew snow all night long and
it’s a beautiful day today although a little breezy but not too bad. But hope
all is well
Don't Panic arrives at 14.2
May 29, 2005
Hello, this is Ben Billings calling in with an update on Alpine Ascent 5, Team
Don’t Panic. Today is Sunday the 29th, we’ve been on the mountain for a week
now, we are happily up at 14 camp where we just arrived today. We spent three
nights at 11 Camp, doing some carries up to the Windy Corner. We had a good
time down at 11 Camp, got to know some of the other teams that we will be
paralleling with on the mountain and got to spend a little time getting to
know everyone. We moved up to 14 Camp today, came around Windy Corner and it
was not so windy, just a little bit of snow and some low visibility. So far
everything has been great, the temperatures have been cold, but enjoyable.
Everyone is doing well.
Tom, John, Steve, Glenn, Mick, and Don all say hello to family and friends and
I do have a short message from Steve, who sends love and says hi to Maggs,
Emily and Maddie, he really misses you and he is working on his ginger beard.
I know that’s not fair that Steve is getting the only personal message, but
we’ll maybe keep it to one personal message in every cybercast. So hello to
friends and family and to everyone out there, thinking of you and look forward
to talking to you again soon. We’ll be here at 14 Camp for the next four
nights and then moving hopefully up the mountain to 17 Camp later this week.
We’ll keep you posted. For now this is Team Don’t Panic signing off, talk to
you all soon.
Mixed Nuts climbs to 11.2
May 29, 2005
Hey everybody this is Forrest McCarthy with Alp 6, the Mixed Nuts calling in
from about 9,000 feet on the Kahiltnaa Glacier. We are on our way up to Camp
II at 11,200 feet, we just spent a couple of nights at the base of Ski Hill at
about 7.8 We got a cache of food and fuel put up at Kahiltna Pass and we’re
moving on up. Nice to be moving with some lighter packs today, working hard,
shuttling food and fuel. Currently the weather is a bit foggy, you can’t see
much, it’s a little like sitting inside the middle of a ping pong ball. But
rumor has it that Camp II is above the cloud layer and we are looking forward
to getting up there and breaking out. That’s it, Team Mixed Nuts will talk to
Multiplying Forces reaches
May 29, 2005
Hello, this is Team Multiplying Forces calling in from Camp 17.2. We didn’t
make a report last night because we had our hands full. We left Camp 14.2
under clear blue skies, and so did the rest of the camp, so the fixed lines
were very crowded and slow going. Then about half way up the fixed lines, some
weather came in, not too bad though, there was some wind, we rolled into 17.2
here at about 7:30 at night and w were happy that Alpine Ascents group III
pitched in and helped us build a camp and made a little hot soup for us, so
that made our night here a little easier. It was still trying for everybody,
everyone had a really hard time, but we made it and everyone is feeling good
this morning, no problems and it’s a fairly nice day and we hope to rest
today, maybe go for the summit tomorrow. We’ll keep you informed of our plans
and report in later.
Overview: There are certain mountains
that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its
tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws
climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all
alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them
with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Denali is often considered
America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an
elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of
63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other
region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The
panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt.
Huntington in all their majestic glory.
When Dr. Bradford Washburn
pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents
and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the
glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska
Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed
route on the mountain.
Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins
deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From
the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West
Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain.
When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high
camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build
snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes
approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.