Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Mixed Nuts rests at High Camp

Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Team #8 Chooses a Name
June 6, 2005    
Hi this is Eric Remza with Alpine Ascents Team #8, and we are here at our 7,800 foot Camp I and we just did a single carry move from Base Camp to here. And everything went really well, the team looked really strong and we actually made it here in a little over five hours, which is really good for carrying such heavy loads. Our plan tomorrow is to do a carry up to around 10,500 feet and then return back down to tour Camp I where we will spend the night. And I will give you an update about how that went tomorrow. So our team name, we do have a team name now, we came up with Team Dynamite. So along with our team name, with every new cybercast, I will be doing a quote from the movie Napoleon Dynamite, since it’s a favorite, amongst everyone here on the team. So the quote for today is: “Wait I forgot to put in the crystals.” That’s it for Team Dynamite until tomorrow, take care, bye.

Mixed Nuts rests at High Camp
June 6, 2005    
This is Forrest McCarthy with Alp 6, the Mixed Nuts calling in from Camp IV, High Camp. We are resting and acclimatizing after a hard move up here. (Transmission fails) We hope to make a summit bid as early as tomorrow, we’ll keep you posted.

Team Don't Panic Summits!
June 5, 2005    
Hey everybody this is Eric with Team Don’t Panic. We just returned from a long day and a beautiful summit climb. It took us just over 12 hours. We had some wind and some cold breezes going up, but then the sun came out when we were nearing the summit, so it was a beautiful moment. We just got back this evening to the 17.2 Camp. Everybody did really well, everybody made the summit. And we’re definitely tuckered out. So we’re making up some soup and some ramen right now and hopefully we’ll pack up tomorrow and head down to 14 Camp. We’ll give you some updates and keep in touch about when we might be getting off the glacier, until then this is Team Don’t Panic and Eric Larson signing out.

Mixed Nuts reaches High Camp
June 5, 2005    
Hey everybody this is Duane from the Mixed Nuts, just reporting on our progress. Today we pushed on up to 17,000 feet to our high camp. It was a tough day for everybody, carrying a load up and we stopped at our cache to get more food, but we are all up here, the weather is beautiful, the wind is very still and calm, and it’s warm and we hope the weather holds for us, we’ll see what happens in the next couple of days. Scott says Happy 23rd Anniversary to Cindy. So take care y’all thanks again for your support and tuning in, Mixed Nuts, later.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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