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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Getting Ready to Summit


Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Mixed Nuts Getting Ready to Summit
June 12, 2005    
Hello this is Forrest McCarthy with Alp 6 Mixed Nuts. Calling in from high camp at 17,200ft. We are sad to report that we still have not had that window for the summit but we are still living large here hanging out at 17,200ft and still getting 30-40 mph winds, low blowing snow, limited visibility, bit cooler here today. The highlight has been enjoying Alp 7 has arrived here yesterday. We have our Posh House set up and we are going to have a big potluck dinner with both expeditions tonight. It’s nice to have some new faces and some socializing. We are keeping our fingers crossed for the weather reports. Things are suppose to be starting to clear. We will have our chance on the summit either on Monday or Tuesday. So family and friends of our Mixed Nuts Expedition Members, so everbody hunkered in to go to “OT” we may not get out on day twenty-one. But we are making travel arrangements as need be. If we are on the summit by tomorrow we should be able to keep everyone on schedule. Otherwise everyone is committed to sitting it out for a couple more days anyhow and wait for our weather window to get to the summit. Everybody is doing well, moral is great and everybody is healthy and we are having a good time setting some records for time up here at high camp. But other than that hopefully you will here from us soon from the summit. That’s all for now from the Mixed Nuts bye.

The Man Show at 17,000ft
June 12, 2005    
Hello this is Alpine Ascents 7 checking in from 17,000ft on the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley aka Denali. The troops made a strong carry yesterday despite poor weather conditions and strong winds. Poor weather prevailed on the mountain it is suppose to prevail for the next two days, today is our rest day at 17,000ft. The troops are in very good spirits and have recovered well from the arduous move. We are planning on summiting in the next three days hoping for a weather break. We will be checking in with you tomorrow. Everyone sends their love and a big hug to everybody back home. Alpine Ascents 7 out.

Mixed Nuts Digging Out Camp
June 11, 2005    
Hi everybody this is Duane Mortenson from the Mixed Nuts Expedition just calling to check in, let you know what’s been going on up here. Last night we had another snowy night, it probably snowed another foot or so, then with the high winds there were spin drift piles around our tent about three feet high so we spent the morning digging out our camp. And digging out some other camps just preparing for more snow and this afternoon we have blue skies but high winds on the summit and a big cloud over Denali pass and higher. The winds are still high but atmospheric signs are good and hopefully this high pressure moves in and we get a go to the summit here in the next couple days. But we are sitting tight, but we are in good spirits. We have food, fuel and everybody is pitching in digging out camps and yeah we are thinking about you all. We will call in tomorrow and let you know what is going on. Thanks again for tuning in to the cybercast. Take care. Mixed Nuts out.

Team #9 Chooses a Name
June 11, 2005    
Hello cyberworld this is Mark Fisher calling in for Alp 9 this is day four and we are on our way to the 11.2 camp. Henceforth follow us with team name Censored Enlightenment our team of 6 climbers and 2 guides is doing well we have John, Sam, Maria, Nate, Chad and Jessica. So between all eight of us we are doing well we have had some overcast and snowy weather and looks like we are going to be really happy to get up to the 11.2 camp. Tomorrow should be a rest day and Sam wants to send his sister best wishes for her birthday. To all loved ones and family out there team Censored Enlightenment is doing well and on the move. We will be reporting in in a few days take care everybody.

The Man Show at 14,000ft
June 10, 2005    
Hello this is Alpine Ascents 7 the Man Show checking in at 14,000ft the weather is beginning to break. (Unfortunately majority of the cybercast for today was unintelligible due to spotty satellite reception)… Hello to friends and family back home we will check in tomorrow.

Mixed Nuts waiting for window
June 10, 2005    
Hi everyone this Duane Mortenson from the Mixed Nuts. Calling in to give you an update. We are still here at 17,200ft camp at high high camp. We were blessed today about noon time we started to see patchy blue, got everybody excited and hoping we can get that window to charge on up to the summit and tag the dome. Then a gusts of over 30mph randomly still come in and that kind of keeps us still hunkered down in our tents but we are living well. We have food and fuel so we are just kicking back, we are strong and ready to go to summit if we get that window. So everybody says hello to all their family and friends and thanks again for all the support and we will let you know what is going on tomorrow. But thanks for tuning in to Alps 6 Mixed Nuts Cybercast. Take care ya’ll, we are, bye.

Team Dynamite carries to 13,500 feet
June 10,2005    
Hi this is Eric Remza with Team Dynamite we are at 13,500ft. Just passed Windy Corner and just did a successful carry up from our 11,000ft camp to our cache here. Everyone did great and we are having some really spectacular weather. The weather broke for us and we had some nice blue skies and some warm temps. Right now we are getting ready to take off and give you an update tomorrow. Happy Anniversary from Will Draper to his darling lady Sara. So the Napolean Dynamite quote is from Pedro “If you vote for me all your wildest dreams will come true.” Alright bye.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 

 

 

 

 




 

 

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