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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Team Dynamite moves to 14,000ft camp


Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Mixed Nuts Encounters Strong Winds June 13, 2005: Hi everybody this Duane with Mixed Nuts Expedition. Today is Monday and wanted to give you an update of what we have been up to. We woke up to wind and snow blowing but by afternoon it cleared up so we made an attempt on the summit and got around Denali Pass and then turned around because of very high winds. We are going to give it a shot tomorrow if the weather is good. Wednesday is our cut off day, we had an expedition meeting today and everybody decided that Wednesday would be our make it or break it day. So we are putting in a little extra overtime here at high camp maybe it’s a record for the season, I don’t know. But we are waiting for a window hopefully the weather will cooperate. Everybody is happy and healthy and we are looking at a great view right now just really windy. So we will call tomorrow thanks for tuning in. Bye.

Team Dynamite back at 14,000ft June 13, 2005: Hey this is Eric Remza with Team Dynamite hanging out here at 14,000ft camp with the team. Yeah, we just did our back carry today and got all our food and fuel up to our camp here. Our plan for tomorrow is to do a carry up to 16,200ft and we will keep you posted regarding that. Everyone is doing good and they all give their regards to their loved ones and we will talk to you tomorrow. The Napoleon Dynamite quote is when Napoleon comes up to Deb when she is drinking milk “I see you are drinking 2% milk is that because you think you are fat, cause your not, you could drink whole milk if you want.” That’s Team Dynamite we will talk to you tomorrow.

Team Dynamite moves to 14,000ft camp June 12, 2005: Hello this is Eric Remza with team Dynamite calling to from 14,000ft on Sunday. To give you a quick recap of our progression up the mountain. We moved into our 14 camp on Saturday and everyone did a great job on our move up. We had really nice weather moving in and were able to move right into Conan’s old camp up here. It made things easy for everyone. Everyone doing great, everyone sleep well last night, a few headaches but everyone is doing better today. Today, Sunday, here at 14,000ft we took a well deserved rest day. We did nothing but eat, relax, and socialize with a lot of folks around here at camp. So our plan is to do a back carry past Windy Corner and then we will give you an update on that tomorrow. So our Napoleon Dynamite quote is when Napoleon tells Deb that she needs move her stuff out of his locker. “Hey, I have your stuff in my locker and I really need you to get out of there. Cause I can’t fit my nunchucks in there anymore.” So that’s it from Team Dyanamite, we are having a good time up here at 14,000ft. Alright take care.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

 

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