Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Summits

Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Team Dynamite takes a rest day June 15, 2005: Hey this is Eric Remza and David Kratsch calling in from 14,000ft from Mt. McKinley. Today we had our rest day and everything went great it was a restful day and a nice pizza dinner. Everything is going well and psyched to hear from Conan that they summited. We are planning on moving up tomorrow so we will get an early start. Look forward to talking to you again from 17,000ft. The Napoleon Dynamite quote is between Napoleon, Uncle Rico, and Kip. Uncle Rico says to Napoleon, “Hey Napoleon while your playing patty cake with your buddy Pedro, Uncle Rico made 35 bucks.” Napoleon states “well I can make that in about five seconds.” Kip says, “Yeah right Napoleon I make 35 bucks a day.” Uncle Rico says to Napoleon, “Well, looks like you don’t have a job so why don’t you go out there and feed Tina.” Well that’s the Napoleon Dynamite quote for the day we will talk to you again from high camp.

The Man Show Summits! June 15, 2005: Hello this is Alpine Ascents 7, reeling victory from the jaws of defeat. At 2:25 this afternoon Alpine Ascents 7 summited the highest point of North America Denali 20,320ft with a strong showing, working through a weather window that has since deteriorated. The team is now happily back at 17 everyone is safe, we would love to thank you for tuning into our broadcast, tomorrow we hope to move down to 11. This effort was made successful in part by a strong team effort from all the individuals involved, as well as the guides. This was the last possible day that we could summit and we punched it. We will check in with you tomorrow with our final cyber cast and then again when we are safely back in Talkeetna. Thanks Bye.

Mixed Nuts back in Talkeetna June 15, 2005: Hey friends and family this is Duane Mortenson with Mixed Nuts expedition. Yesterday Tuesday we left high high camp at 17,000ft and the weather was not cooperating for a summit attempt so we decided to pack on up and head back down the mountain after ten days up at high high camp which most people don’t spend that much time almost a record. We adjourned and decided to head on home. We arrived at base camp this morning about 8:00am on Wednesday and flew out around 11:30am this morning to Talkeetna. Everybody is back and all safe and we really appreciate everyone’s support with the cybercast and we know that you were all rooting for us up there. Thanks much from the Mixed Nuts with our final cybercast out.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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