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Denali
(20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska
Team Ex Enjoys Rest Day at
High Camp June 26, 2005
Spunky at 17,000, eating large and drinking plenty in the Posh with the gang.
We had a beautiful day back-carrying from 16,200. Weather was sunny and
relatively warm, with a minimum at minus 14. Rose unfortunately was
helicoptered out with a broken foot, an accident on the headwall. Brennan
stayed back at 14,000 waiting for the helicopter. Hopefully he’ll be back with
us tomorrow. We’re checking weather, planning gear for a run to the top
tomorrow. Send positive thoughts for good weather and a strong push, we’re all
in good spirits and supporting each other, we love all of you and hold you
close, big hugs.
Walking Heads Reaches 14 Camp
June 26, 2005
Hi this is Molly calling from the Walking Heads and we arrived this afternoon
up at 14 Camp having spent the last couple of days down at 11, it’s a big
party here on the mountain, a lot of guided groups moving up, more or less the
same schedule, so lots of familiar faces moving up the hill with us. Everyone
is still feeling healthy and having a good time. The weather has been
beautiful and with some scattered clouds and snow here and there. Tomorrow we
are going to have a full, long rest day, with French toast in the morning and
start moving around, getting ready to move up the fixed lines shortly. We’ve
had the good fortune to run into Brennan Brunner, another Alpine Ascents Guide
here, who’s been giving us an update on what’s been going on with the other
team higher up the mountain. Most importantly, Rob sends Heather a “happy
anniversary”, thank you for 12 fabulous years, and he love you and he misses
you and looks forward to seeing you. I’ll be calling back tomorrow, lots of
love to our family and friends back home.
Team 13 Flies to Glacier June
26, 2005
Hello Cyberworld, this is Eric Larson calling in for Team 13 on Denali. Folks
I would like to introduce our team for this season’s last climb. We have
Christina Thomson, Guy Downing, Scott Westover, Robert Griner, Kevin Sheridan,
and Robert Burleigh, with Eric Larson, and Ben Billings as guides. It is
Saturday the 25th, and we just finished up our gear check. Everyone is doing
great, and we will be flying onto the glacier today around 3 pm. We will be in
touch with a team name from our next cybercast, which will be on our move to
11,200’ camp. Thanks to everyone who is following this climb, stay tuned for
more.
Censored Enlightenment Signs
Off June 26, 2005
Hello cyberworld! This is Eric Murphy for team Censored Enlightenment. We
arrived back to Talkeetna yesterday AM, after a rest day at 14 camp, and an
all night descent from 14 camp to the airstrip. John and Sam did great, and we
have been enjoying the great food and beer here in town. Sam and John are
looking forward to relaxing for a couple of days. We would all like to thank
our friends, family, coworkers, teammates, and everyone who made this climb
possible. Eric wishes Christie a fun and successful trip with team 13, the
last of the season. Thanks for following our climb, and until next year, This
is Murphy signing off. Cheers!
Team Ex Reaches High Camp
June 25, 2005
Hello there cybernauts with Team Ex…celllent. So we did our push up today, and
I was able to get the phone back and just wanted to report in that we are now
located at 17,143 feet above sea level at high camp and the weather looks to
be beautiful. However, tomorrow we’re going to make a carry of food and fuel
from down below, back up to here, so we have enough to hang out and wait for
everything to be just right, when our bodies are good and acclimatized and
when the weather is right then we will go for it. So right now we are just
getting into bed, it’s midnight, it’s been a very long day, we were up at six
and for the most part of ten hours, were climbing and then several more hours
camping, setting up tents and building walls and things, so we’re tired but
we’re in position. I am sad to report that Rosemary has turned her ankle and
either sprained it severely and maybe even possibly fractured it and she is
going down, and hopefully will be med-evaced on the helicopter right now,
Brennan is staying with her down at 14,000 feet, so currently the high
altitude team consists of Smiley, Spunky, JD and Jim and myself. And we’re
happy to be here, ciao for now.
Boken Annainin Back-Carries
to Kahiltna Pass June 25, 2005
Hello this is Todd calling in from Team Boken Annainin. We came back, did our
back-carry today, we are at just below Kahiltna Pass picking up our stuff and
heading back up. It’s snowing pretty hard right now, it snowed quite a bit
last night so we had some trail breaking to do, and it looks like we’ll have
some trail breaking to do on our way back up, but everybody is feeling strong
and we’re up for it. We’re planning on taking a rest day tomorrow, Sunday, so
you probably won’t hear from us tomorrow, but the next day, Monday, when we go
on up to do our carry, we’ll be able to make contact with you again. So watch
for us then, bye.
Team Ex Rests After Caching
at 16.2 June 24, 2005
Hi this is Jim for Team Extreme, calling with today’s update for June 24th.
After yesterday’s hard push up the 2,000 vertical feet, 50 degree headwall,
Team Extreme today enjoyed a rest day at our camp at 14,143 feet in elevation.
Mighty fine place to spend the day, this camp is rather cosmopolitan as it is
the temporary home to dozens of international climbing teams. One team has a
string of fish drying outside the tent, while another focused on ice
architecture, building a cool igloo, eight feet in diameter and over four feet
high. Active trading is also taking place here, food for fuel, Guinesses for
food, dollars for cell phone usage. As for our team we rested in a variety of
ways: reading, napping, hanging out with fellow climbers, and last but not
least, taking a much needed baby wipe bath. Overall the team is fired up,
we’re strong having fun and ready for tomorrow’s big push to High Camp at
17,000 feet, within striking distance of the summit. A special note to John’s
niece Christina, He would like to congratulate her on her graduation and wish
her a great time at her party. “Thanks to all for following along,” from the
girls, “later on” from the guys.
Boken Annainin reaches
Kahiltna Pass
June 24, 2005
Hey there this is Todd calling in for Team Boken Annainin. We are at Kahiltna
Pass, we’re on a night schedule now because the lower glacier is so soft and
it has been so warm that we decided to climb at night when things are firmer
and it’s not so hot. So that’s where we are at. And we’re hoping to push all
the way on up to 11.2, the 11,200 foot camp where we will camp for the next
few days. The weather has been cloudy this whole time, but warm. Our first day
we had snow and today it’s still been fairly warm, so even at night things
aren’t freezing up solid, so it’s kind of a different scene right now. But
we’ll keep you posted on our progress, everybody is strong and doing well, so
we’ll see you when we’re looking at you.
Updates
Overview: There are certain mountains
that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its
tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws
climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all
alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them
with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Denali is often considered
America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an
elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of
63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other
region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The
panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt.
Huntington in all their majestic glory.
When Dr. Bradford Washburn
pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents
and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the
glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska
Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed
route on the mountain.
Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins
deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From
the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West
Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain.
When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high
camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build
snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes
approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.
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