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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Summits and More Summits


Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Team Walking Heads Summit July 4, 2005    
This is Andy Rich on this July 4th Independence Day update for Team Walking Heads. We are all standing on the top of Denali as we speak. (Transmission unclear) We left camp this morning at 8:30am in good weather and boy are these guys really strong, they cranked right up here. Everybody is doing incredibly well, these guys are a really strong team, I was really impressed with them. We made our way up here in 8 ½ hours. It was pretty cold and chilly on the summit but not cold enough that we couldn’t stand here and take a couple summit photos and really reveal in this really unique July 4th for all of us.

(Transmission unclear) We are all heading back down and I’ll give a call when I get back down to our high camp and let everyone know we made it down back there and are safe and well. We all have a lot of people to thank and a lot of people we are thinking about, in particular are thinking of Molly and Paul, who were a big part of this team and unfortunately weren’t able to make it up here today but we are thinking about them and hope that they get the chance to come back up here someday. Happy 4th of July everyone, we have our own variety of fireworks going off up here and we will be in touch soon as soon as we get down to our high camp. Over and out.
 

Team Boken Annainin Summits July 4, 2005    
Hi this is team Bouken Annanin calling in from the top of North America, from the summit of Denali. Our entire team made it, we are now celebrating and everyone is taking pictures on top of the peak. We left at 8:00am this morning and arrived around 4:30pm, so it was a pretty good day. We’ll let you know and call in with another cybercast report when we are back in high camp safely, which will be later tonight. See you later. Bye.

Team Dancing Snow Pumpkins July 3, 2005    
Hello and greetings this is Ben Billings calling with an update for Denali XIII, Team Dancing Snow Pumpkins. Today, is Sunday, July 3rd and we just had a successful cache at 16, 5 just below the sun. We had a beautiful hike up today, a little bit of sun and a little bit of snow in the afternoon and everybody did great. Tomorrow we are planning on enjoying a rest day and having for breakfast pancakes, which we are all very excited about. After that on Tuesday, we are hoping to move up to the 17 camp and we will let you know how we do. We’ve been doing great, other then that, everybody wishes greetings and send their love to friends and family. We look forward to talking to everybody soon, until then, over and out and talk to you soon, DSP. So Long.

Team Boken Annainin Prepares for Summit July 3, 2005    
Hello this is Winslow with Team Boken Annainin we are hanging out at high camp with Team Walking Heads. It has been warm and sunny and we are a few thousand feet above the clouds that are billowing below us. Everyone is doing really well, eating a lot of food so we don’t have to carry it. So hopefully you will here from us tomorrow when we go for the summit. Take care.

Walking Heads prepare for summit July 3, 2005    
Hey this is Andy Rich calling in reporting for the Sunday July 3rd update from Team Walking Heads. We made our way to our high camp at 17,200ft yesterday, unfortunately after spending at few days at 14,00ft camp decided that Molly’s health was not particularly good so she stayed behind at 14,000ft. She was feeling fine down there but moving her to a higher altitude did not seem like a wise decision. She had that cold that was going around and got a hold of her better than anyone else. The rest of the team made it up to 17,200ft on a fairly long move day. Today there is beautiful blue weather not a bit of wind. The rest of team made it up to high camp joining forces with Todd and Winslow’s team. Everyone made it and quickly settled in for a cold night but really spectacular weather. Paul Cutarelli had a little bit of knee pain on the way up to high camp and has decided that it is not in his best interest to try to summit. So he headed down the mountain with another team to 14,000ft camp where he will meet up with Molly this afternoon. So they will decid whether they will head further down the mountain or wait there for the rest of the team to return. So unfortunately Paul and Molly will not be joining us for our summit attempt here but they are both in fine health. They just thought it would be better for them not to push up to the summit. The rest of the team is feeling very good and had a nice rest day here at high camp. We have been drinking a lot of water and eating a lot of food, resting a bunch and mentally preparing ourselves to summit tomorrow. We think July 4th would be quite wonderful and the weather has been great. The mountain is a little cloudy down below but up high it is completely clear. That’s about all the news from team Walking Heads. David sends his love to his daughters Heather and Kaitlyn he misses you very much. So that’s it from Team Walking Heads. We will be in touch tomorrow; hopefully we will have good weather and have reports of summiting. Take Care. Bye Bye.

Team Ex heads home July 3, 2005    
Hey this is a finishing ultimate cybercast for Team Ex. We have flown off the glacier and had a great celebration dinner and have now sent everybody on their way. Sending them back home to you and you will be seeing them soon. Know that everyone is safe, sound and very satisfied. Again, wish that Rosemary hadn’t had her unfortunate accident but she is recovering as we speak and everyone else is very very satisfied with the trip. So thank you very much for joining us. Ciao for now. This is Vernon Tejas saying bye bye from Alpine Ascents Team Ex

Team Boken Annainin moves to high camp July 2, 2005    
Hello this is Todd calling in with Team Boken Annainin. I believe yesterday we left you up in the air on what we were going to do today. Well we decided to move and we are standing now at the high camp at 17,200ft and it is a beautiful day about 8:00pm. Calm and clear and pretty warm up here. We are happy that we made the choice we did and everybody is feeling great. We are definitely going to take a rest day tomorrow and plan for our summit day on the 4th of July. So we will talk to you all later. Bye

Alp #13 Dancing Snow Pumpkins preparing for the fixed lines
July 2, 2005    
Hello everybody this is Eric Larson with team 13 the Dancing Snow Pumpkins giving you a call from 14,200ft camp. Today is July 2nd and we pulled into 14 camp yesterday afternoon after about 7 hour tour of the glacier around Windy Corner. The weather was great we were in a cloud most of the time so the sun wasn’t too hot. The crew is doing really well everybody is tuckered out a bit and sleeping in this morning. Guy has had some blister issues from the beginning; his new boots have not treated him very well at all. So he has decided to turn around and went out with Vern’s team and also his friend Kevin (just to join him so they can have an Alaskan vacation). So Kevin and Guy we are going to miss ya on the team and hope you guys watch our progress and maybe see you in Talkeetna. For the rest of the crew that’s here, today we did a small back carry, almost a rest day. If the weather is good we will hopefully go up the fixed lines tomorrow. After that they have a well deserved day off. So we will keep in touch and give you another cybercast tomorrow and let you know what is going on. This is the Dancing Snow Pumpkins signing off.

Team Boken Annainin Carries up to 16,200 Feet July 1, 2005

Hello this is Team Boken Annainin calling in from 14,000ft level camp. Today we did our big carry up the fixed lines carried all the way up to 16,200ft. It is always a struggle but everybody did fine. We made it back down to camp around 4:00pm so everybody is resting right now and we will decide at dinner time whether we are going to move tomorrow or take a rest day tomorrow, it is still up in the air. So stay tuned for tomorrow for our update. Later.

Updates

Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 

 

 

 

 




 

 

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