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Denali 2005: Alpine Ascents Denali 2005: Team Walking Heads Back in Talkeetna

Denali (20,320ft/6,195m) Alaska

Team Boken Annainin Preparing to Leave Talkeetna July 7, 2005: Hello this is Todd calling in with Team Boken Annainin we are all safely back in Talkeetna and have all enjoyed a good night sleep and a good celebration dinner. When we spoke to you last we were at the 17,000ft camp packing up. A lot has happened since then, we were heading down the fixed line and there was a guy who dislocated his shoulder and we had to assist in helping him get down. We spent a few hours at 14,000ft medical camp and then at 11:00pm we left and got off the glacier yesterday afternoon. We are all making plans get home to see all of our family and friends. So thanks for following us and we a great trip. Tune in next time for more great adventures. Later.

Team Walking Heads Back in Talkeetna July 6, 2005    
Hello this is Andy Rich calling for Team Walking Heads on Wednesday July 6th update. We made it back down to basecamp after an all night trek down the glacier. Beautiful travel conditions in the sense that it was a cold night and the glacier was well frozen. Being that is has been warm on the lower glacier for a couple of weeks and the crevasses were opening quite a bit. So we traveled through the coolest part of the night and made it back to base camp some time around mid morning when everyone got in than we sat around waiting for a plane for the better part of the day. We flew out this evening so we are all currently in Talkeetna. We have showered and organized a little bit of gear and about to go out to a celebratory dinner. Molly is in town so she will be joining us but unfortunately Paul Cutarelli has already left town. We had a successful trip everyone is back in town, and happy. So Team Walking Heads expedition is coming to a close. That’s it for the Walking Heads over and out.

Team Dancing Snow Pumpkins Preparing for Summit July 6, 2005    
Hello this is Ben Billings with team 13 Dancing Snow Pumpkins. We are up at high camp today, today is Wednesday 6th of July and we had a nice rest day today. It was a windy morning but cleared up this evening and we are hoping after a nice rest today. We are hoping that tomorrow will be our potential summit bid. That is as long as the weather stays on our side. Today was a nice comfortable sunny day up here with lots of snacking, got to view a helicopter come in for a gear pickup which was fun and exciting. So best wishes to everyone Christina would like to send her love to Eric. That’s it for now look forward to talking to you soon. For now over and out. DSP see yah.

Walking Heads Back to Fourteen Camp July 5, 2005    
This is Andy Rich calling for team Walking Heads an update for Tuesday July 5th. We had a great nights rest after our summit day. We woke up leisurely and made it down to the Fourteen Camp were we relaxed for a few hours had a big dinner. We joined up with Todd and Winslow’s group and had a great feast. There were 13 of us in the Posh House and it was really fun. We are going to nap for a couple of hours and make our way down to base camp during the night and into the morning. So we are hoping we will make it to basecamp early in the morning and if the weather permits we will be flying out shortly after that. When the weather does allow us to fly out I will give one final update to let everyone know that we made it back to town. It wouldn’t be surprising if that wasn’t tomorrow. The weather has been kind of in and out cloudy here and there but we are hoping to get out tomorrow. Regardless we will be traveling through the night to maximize the cold temperatures on the lower glacier to minimize our chances of crevasse falls and a bit more comfortable travel with cooler temperatures during the night. So that’s the plan, we just feasted, napping and heading down pretty soon. We won’t have communications in basecamp so we can’t let you know when we are heading out but after arriving in Talkeetna I will make one last cybercast. That’s about it for Team Walking Heads over and out.

Team Dancing Snow Pumpkins Reach High Camp July 5, 2005    
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson giving you a call from 17,200ft camp with Alpine Ascents #13 Dancing Snow Pumpkins. We just pulled into camp a little while ago it took us just a little over seven hours to carry and move all of our equipment up to high camp. Everybody did really well; our packs were pretty light, we were fortunate to exchange tents with Todd and Winslow’s team and some other gear. So we were not as heavy as usual. Team did really well they are tuckered out for sure and we are making some mac and cheese with some tuna in their right now for them and letting them recover. Hopefully the weather holds up, tomorrow we will take a rest day and acclimatize tomorrow. Some messages Scott sends his love to Theresa and Dillon, Roger says happy birthday to his father. We will give you another call tomorrow and let you know what is going on. Right now everything is pretty quiet the crew is just resting from a long day. This is Eric Larson signing off.


Overview: There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.

When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

Climb Overview: A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base camp.

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A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.








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