American Autumn Shishapangma Expedition 2005: Circumambulating in Lhasa

Sunset on Shishapangma from Base Camp

"The way of cowardice is to embed ourselves in a cocoon, in which we perpetuate our habitual patterns. When we are constantly recreating our basic patterns of behavior and thought, we never have to leap into fresh air or onto fresh ground. ... The first impulse that draws us away from the darkness of the cocoon towards the light of the Great Eastern Sun is a longing for ventilation. As soon as we begin to sense the possibility of fresh air...we want to stretch out and walk, dance, even jump."

As I read these words by Chogyam Trungpa, Rinpoche about habitual cocoons, the thoughts found their place in me. These are some of the reasons I go on trips like these--to leap into fresh air and onto fresh ground and see what I will see, how I will react, what is real.

What is real in Lhasa are thousands of pilgrims circumambulating the Jokhang--Tibet's most holy temple, where in the 6th century the king of Tibet threw up his ring into the air, and where it fell a stupa began in what was then the middle of a lake. The reality of intense burning incense finds me when I linger too long near the smoke. The 'high altitude' sun burns any unprotected soul. The Potala Palace is truely majestec, viewed almost anywhere around Lhasa. Chinese taxi drivers will 'extort' you if you are lost, even if driving you 2.5 blocks to your destination (though the extortion is small at $1.25). Buddist monks convene in a courtyard and have the most lively interaction--one question, one answer; students asking any question they want and masters there to give a quick and animated reply, slapping their hands at the conclusion; but then the roles reverse and an eight year old will be doing the answering; nothing is held back.

My smile was there the whole day. I was walking, dancing, and I might even jump on the way home tonight.

-Val

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