American Autumn Shishapangma Expedition 2005: Infractions and Oppression

Sunset on Shishapangma from Base Camp

Infractions and Oppression

INFRACTIONS

"You haven't lived until you have been yelled at by a Tibetan monk."

There were no signs, I swear it. Inside the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama, in the retreat called Norbulinka, enclosed in a glass case, was a three-foot, gold gilt statue of a fierce diety named Dorje. He is a protector diety who is blue. I have taken a liking to him, with his

fangs, claws, fierce look. He holds a dorje (a ritual thunderbolt) in

his right hand. He usually is surrounded by fire.

When I snapped the picture, in rushes a monk uttering "she she shee no no!". I was startled. Another monk rushes in. I apologize immediately, realizing that this is forbidden, and fumble through the controls of the digital camera, showing them the photo, then deleting it. They relaxed, all was OK, the second one drifted away. The first one points to his ear, then a small white box with a red light in the upper corner of the room.

The first monk was probably in his 50s, very lean, with a big smile now, in familiar crimson robes. He showed us through a few rooms, as much out of pride as keeping an eye on us for more infractions. I was penitent.

He showed us a photo of a younger Dalai Lama painted on the wall in one of the bedrooms, and the fifth Dalai Lama on the other wall. Except for the current Dalai Lama, I can't keep them straight.

I was interested in a small, rectangular carved plaque with an inscription over a door. I framed the door nicely, and got another warning. Now it was obvious: It was not OK to shoot inside the rooms, but outside is fine. He allowed me to shoot a tight shot of just the plaque, perhaps stretching the rules.

All is good though, as I offered 10 yuan to the box by the throne, and smiled. He smiled back. A warm recognition of compliance.

OPPRESSION

It is late at night, nearly bedtime. The building is dark, except a faint

glow. Entering the far end of  the room, I could see two figures huddled closely, looking at me apprehensively. One was robed, the other familiar.

The story should be told, but not from China, and not in public. I will tell it to anybody who contacts me personally.

Today we leave for Shigatse.

--Eric

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