Monty writes: Wrap-up (from the
comfort of home!)
Lots of people have asked how
everything turned out (especially the frostbite!). Also, there were no
pictures in the last dispatches, and I'm sure you'd like some pics of summit
day. Unfortunately neither Val nor I had ANY desire to unglove in 50-below
windchill and snap shots of our snowcave or of the flapping tent remains.
After descending, the rest of
the trip was quite straightforward. We packed up ABC and yakked it out of
there. A high point was visiting our porter, Bemba's home and mother. It is
a classic old-style Tibetan one-room dwelling in a building so old no one knew
when it was built. It was quite an honor to be provided salted yak butter
tea, potatoes and dried mutton, but to the Western palate the tea is pretty
From there it took us many
days to get back to Lhasa, and then fly home via Chengdu, Shanghai, Seoul, LA
and finally Portland.
Frostbite (not for the
I have frostbite on all ten
fingers and both big toes. My thumbs and index fingers appear normal; there's
some slight nerve damage on the tips - they're more or less numb, but will
recover OK. The other six fingers have varying amounts of black, dying skin.
One pinky and one ring finger are mummified back to about the first knuckle,
and are hard as glass. Next Tuesday Iím going in to have them amputated - the
ring finger to the first knuckle and the pinky almost to the second knuckle -
there's be a clear line of black/pink flesh that says 'cut here'. My middle
fingers both have the tips black and hardened; this skin will eventually fall
off and may regrow. If enough flesh falls off that the bone is exposed
they'll have to use surgery to close it up. All this will take weeks, or even
months, to determine.
The tips of the big toes are
slowly turning purple (dying). They'll probably slough off some skin but are
expected to heal without much problem.
The immediate issue is the
pain. It hurts very bad, 24 hours a day - especially the dead areas. The two
dying fingers have excruciating deep pain, although tactile-wise they're
completely numb. I just got some medication for phantom pains and itís
working better than the Vicodin.
The lasting problem is that
my fingers and toes will be *extremely* sensitive to cold for years to come,
and due to the nerve and circulation damage, will be more susceptible to
frostnip/frostbite from now on.
Many people have commented on
'how well I'm taking it'. Well, what else am I gonna do? There's nothing I
can do but wait. But the truth is I'm *extremely* disappointed at losing two
(or more?) fingertips. Ask me again in a year, after having two shortened
fingers has settled into my psyche and I've fully dealt with the amputations -
right now it's just too soon. Iím sure a year from now Iíll wonder what the
fretting was all about.
The other problem is that I
discovered I have a condition known as high altitude retinopathy. What this
means is that my eyes hemorrhage at altitude, leaving a blood clot that
occludes my vision. The eye doc says it'll go away by itself and after three
weeks itís almost gone, but it definitely gets worse the higher I go. I had a
very small incident on Ama Dablam (22,500ft) and more severe at 26,000ft.
This appears to be hereditary as my father suffered for years with ocular
hemorrhaging (diabetic retinopathy).
People also ask 'Would I do
it again?' or 'Was it worth it?' I don't know - again, ask me in a year. What
I WOULD do differently is to not organize and lead the expedition. There's
just too much that can go wrong that a small team is unprepared for. That,
plus having to deal with all the administrivia... yaks, tents, schedules,
liaison officers, jeeps, permits - the list is endless. The small amount of
money we saved was more than offset by the increased hassles involved. I'm
happy to say I've assembled and led an 8000m expedition. It was a great
experience to do once, but next time I'll hire an outfitter!
Next up Val!
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75įF Gore-Texģ Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Texģ gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz ē 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Corduraģ
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibramģ rubber rand
See more here.