Inaki Ochoa de Olza: Shisha Pangma Autumn 2006: New route on Shisha Pangma?

Inaki Ochoa de Olza is now resting in camp 2 (7.000 meters) of Shisha Pangma, after summiting today at 14.15 local time. Inaki said that he opened a new route since 7.200 meters or go more or less by the Russian route on the left side of normal route, a way that he thinked it was very dangerous because the risk of avalanches. Inaki departed this evening at 02.00 local time since Camp 1 (6.400 meters) and arrived at the top 12 hours and 15 minutes after. He used the two piolets in a lot of pure climbing sections and arrived at 7.900 meters, where he find the edge that came from the south side. After the summit, he came back by the same route he used climbing until 7.200, where the way converges with the normal. Tomorrow he will descend to advanced base camp.

This is the first ascent of Shisha Pangma this autumn and Iñaki said that there was a lot of snow and, day by day, less climbers in the two sides of the mountain. This was his 11th 8.000+ meters. Best wishes Jorge.

Earlier Update: Ochoa de Olza summits Shisha Pangma Main 

Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, has summited today (14.00 Nepal time) Shisha Pangma Main, 11 years after summiting his central summit. Not many details are known, but Inaki told his family that he thinks he opened alone a new route or repeated the Russian route in the final part of the ascent. He is descending to Base Camp and later more info about the ascent, because two days ago he explained that he will go in three days, arriving summit on Wednesday. He broke his plans and summited today. This is the 11th 8.000+ meters for  Ochoa de Olza, who has too two more ascents of Cho Oyu, Shisha central and foresummit of Broad peak. In April, he summited Manaslu with Jorge Egocheaga. Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna aren't still in Ochoa's bag.

Update: Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de
Navarra expedition last week climbed to 7000 meters in the north route of Shisha Pangma. Iñaki and Bob Jen descended the same day to base camp (5.650 meters). Now is snowing in base camp and it seems that this situation will continue until the weekend. Iñaki wants to wait until the nest week to climb to the main summit by the traverse below the central summit

Earlier: Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, has departed to climb Shisha Pangma (8.027 meters) by the north face-northeast ridge. With the north American Bob Jen, Ochoa de Olza, 39 years old and with 10 8.000+ meters in his bag, will arrive on September 10th to the Chinese base camp. Last spring, he summited Manaslu with asturian Jorge Egocheaga and now plans to climb a mountain that he knows very well. In 1995, he arrived to the central summit (8.008 meters) and in march of 2005 he suffered and avalanche when trying a true solo climb in this same route. Last September, in the south face, he stopped climbing with Jorge Egocheaga because illness. Depending on the conditions of the route and the snow, he will climb between the two summits or will make a traverse below them.

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