Ivan Vallejo Ricaurte: Autumn Dhaulagiri 2006 Summit attempt

MY DEFINITIVE AND ONLY ATTEMPT TO THE SUMMIT

Dhaulagiri Base Camp 

Friends of Ecuador and the world.

Yesterday, Saturday 14, I received the last weather forecast from Vítor Bahía (Portugal), who lets me know that from Tuesday, October 17,  the wind speed will diminish a little, down to around 30 Km/hour.  But the mountain will be a little cloudy.  Sete and I will leave tomorrow, Monday 16, to Camp 1 (5,800m), we will climb up to 6,400m on Tuesday, to our Camp 2, up to 7,200m on Wednesday, to our Camp 3 and on Thursday 19, God willing, it will be our summit day. 

We will be back to our Base Camp on Friday 20, and I will finish my expedition after that date, because this is the limit I have set to myself.  Of course, I have great hope that the wind will be less punishing above 7,000m and that we can carry on with our plans as we think.

After waiting for ten days, something I don’t have to deny, we’ve been in anguish, we finally get tomorrow on the track, on the field, on the arena; for our race, our match or our job.

I believe that, to my favor, I have thought a lot of things during all these days about the mountains, about Desafío 14 (Challenge 14), about the anguish of waiting.  Never better, as Rosa Montero would say, The Crazy of the House has done it to me this time.  Anyway, tomorrow at 7:15 I will have my backpack on my back and in 20 minutes I will put on my crampons under my boots to start crossing the glacier of Dhaulagiri on the way to C1.

For those who believe, I thank them in advance for the prayers you could make on behalf of Sete and me.  For those who don’t, let your good vibes come to us here, to this part of the Himalayas.  

With my love, from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Iván Vallejo Ricaurte

EXPEDITIONEER 

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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