Sunday, April 2, 2006
friends: I write this first chronicle from Katmandu, a city to which I have
arrived three days ago and in which I am preparing for the next adventure in
my project 'DESAFIO 14' (Challenge 14).
planned two expeditions for this year: Right now in April and May in
Kangchenjunga, and in September and October in Dhaulagiri. The particular
detail of these two objectives is that they are the only two mountains which I
have not reached their summit, in both cases, because of the dangerous
conditions I had at the moment on the mountain, because of bad weather.
mountain with its 8,586m is the third most high in the world with just 262
meters of altitude less than Everest, however it is more complicated because
of the technical characteristics of the route by which I will approach the
challenge. Precisely that is the reason why Kangchenjunga is one of the least
frequented eight-thousands, and the statistics are:
EVEREST total: (around) 1800 people. With no oxygen, 178 people.
KANGCHENJUNGA total: no more than 180 people.
spring of 2002 along with Julio Mesías (who is now part of an Ecuadorian
expedition who will attempt Everest) we attempted to reach the summit of
Kangchenjunga, reaching 8,100m, where we were forced to turn around because of
the weather conditions and the danger it meant.
ABOUT THE ROUTE: In this first attempt in 2002 I was on
the North Face of the mountain following the so called Japanese route. It was
a very complicated sojourn, and it was technically very exigent.
occasion I will go by the South Face using the router where the first ascent
was achieved in 1955, by a British group lead by Charles Evans.
To be able
to get to the summit, four high altitude camps have to be installed, a work
that will serve as part of our mandatory acclimatization process.
camp, which will be located around 5,200m, we will install C1 at 5,900m, c" at
6,400m, and C3 at 7,200m. C4 will only be installed the day before the summit
attack around 8,000m. Considering that I'll be at the bottom of the mountain
in the middle of April, I think that the process of installing the camps and
the adaptation to the altitude will take us around one month, so the moment of
the summit will come after the third week of May.
Kangchenjunga is one of the most complicated mountains in the Himalayas, there
are not many mountain climbers who sign up for this objective, so this time
the expedition will only have two members: Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio and yours
Gonzalez-Rubio is Colombian and is also on his way to achieve 14
eight-thousands; at the moment he has made 4 eight-thousands: Cho Oyu,
8,2001m, Everest, 8,848m (with oxygen), K2, 8,611m (without oxygen) and last
year we climbed Nanga Parbat together, 8,125m in Pakistan. I will later share
more details about this teammate of mine in this expedition and adventure.
moment, I am in KTM with my teammate and friend Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio
setting up the expedition.
A big hug
from the city of Stupas, Buddha, Vishnu and Brahma.
Ivan is one of the few climbers to summit
Everest from the North and South, both without oxygen. This quest for the 14
shall continue this Spring... Stay Tuned for more.
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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