sorry for over delayed. We get
every year more and more lazy to write. But all over others with us write and
write so I think there is enough. The team: Inaky Ochoa, Dennis Urubkov, Jorge
Echoeaga, Horia Colibasanu, Romeo, Sergey Samailov, Sergey Bogomolov, Todlatze
and myself Peter Guggemos.
We start on the 5th April by
Heli from Kathmandu to Samagoun, reaching the Base Camp on 7th April. We
established Camp I on 16th April in 5800 m. Heavy snowfall disturbed us a lot.
Camp II on 25th April in ca. 6500 mtr. Denis Urubkov and Sergey Samailof
the first summiter after some years on Manaslu. They reach the summit on 25th
April after a hard way up. On 28th April we start over summit bit. 29th April
in Camp III 6850 m. In the night Inaky Ochoa, Jorge Echoeaga + Horia
Colibasanu started up there reaching the summit on 29th April noon.
I reach in the night of 30th April 3.00 am 7600 m and have to turn back after
We leave the base camp on 1th may and left our russian friends in the base
camp. They will try again.
S. Denis and Sergey summit
Manaslu via new route on 8th may 6.30 pm again. Best regards Peter
PS: As you can see Peter is not near death,
etc as others have falsely reported.
Inaki passes the ninth at 7.000
meters and Urubko and Samoilev make summit in Manaslu
de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, and the asturian Jorge
Egocheaga passed last night on Manaslu camp 2 at 7.000 meters. This morning,
they went down in the middle of another snow storm. They plan to make his
first summit attempt when the weather could be better, because the mountain is
plenty of snow right now and there is a very high risk of avalanches. Despite
this, the kazajs Dennis Urubko and Sergei Samoilev made summit on tuesday and
are descending to base camp. This is his 10th 8000 meters for Urubko. Best
Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the
Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, arrived last Friday 7th of April to
Manaslu base camp, located al 4.850 meters. Ochoa de Olza, who has nine 8.000+
meters, will try to climb the mountain via the northeast ridge. Ochoa de Olza
found a lot a snow in the mountain, but he said that the weather seems good.
He climb in a strong internatinal group who includes, among others, Dennis
Urubko and Jorge Egocheaga. Saturday 8th, he climbed until 5.500 meters,
near Camp I. Jorge
Note: This is
Peter Guggemos's expedition....
Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the
Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, will depart march 13th to climb Manaslu
(8.163 meters) and Dhaulagiri (8.172 meters), two of the five 8.000 meters
that he hasn't climbed yet (the others are Kangchenjunga, Annapurna and Shisha
Pangma Main). Ochoa de Olza, 38 years old from Pamplona (Navarra), will be in
Manaslu with a strong international group that, usually, will attempt the
normal route on the mountain. The climbers will be the Jorge Egocheaga, the
Denis Urubko and Sergei Samoilev, the Sergei Bogomolov, the Gia Torladtze, the
Horia Colibasanu and Peter Guggemos. They plan to install base camp at 4.600
meters in April. Ochoa de Olza will arrive sooner to make some trek before.
This will be the second time Ochoa de Olza will be in Manaslu. In
1999 he was there working for
the Spanish public television, but the snow didn't allow them to progress from
the base camp. After that, Ochoa de Olza will go to attempt Dhaulagiri (8.172
meters) normal route with the italians Luca Vuerich, Romano Benet and Nives
Olza climbed last year in 16 hours from the base camp to 8.000 meters but,
looking the poor conditions of the snow in the final traverse down the
foresummit to the real summit, he decided to come back. No one climber reached
the summit of Dhaulagiri last year. Jorge
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