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  Manaslu and Dhaulagiri 2006: Peter Guggemos reports in with Summits to clear up false reports by others on the web...


Update: sorry for over delayed. We get every year more and more lazy to write. But all over others with us write and write so I think there is enough. The team: Inaky Ochoa, Dennis Urubkov, Jorge Echoeaga, Horia Colibasanu, Romeo, Sergey Samailov, Sergey Bogomolov, Todlatze and myself Peter Guggemos.

We start on the 5th April by Heli from Kathmandu to Samagoun, reaching the Base Camp on 7th April. We established Camp I on 16th April in 5800 m. Heavy snowfall disturbed us a lot. Camp II on 25th April in ca. 6500  mtr. Denis Urubkov and Sergey Samailof the first summiter after some years on Manaslu. They reach the summit on 25th April after a hard way up. On 28th April we start over summit bit. 29th April in Camp III 6850 m. In the night Inaky Ochoa, Jorge Echoeaga + Horia Colibasanu started up there reaching the summit on 29th April noon.

I reach in the night of 30th April 3.00 am 7600 m and have to turn back after some frostbite.

We leave the base camp on 1th may and left our russian friends in the base camp. They will try again.

S. Denis and Sergey summit Manaslu via new route on 8th may 6.30 pm  again. Best regards Peter

PS: As you can see Peter is not near death, etc as others have falsely reported.

Update 4/26/2006: Inaki passes the ninth at 7.000 meters and Urubko and Samoilev make summit in Manaslu

 

Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, and the asturian Jorge Egocheaga passed last night on Manaslu camp 2 at 7.000 meters. This morning, they went down in the middle of another snow storm. They plan to make his first summit attempt when the weather could be better, because the mountain is plenty of snow right now and there is a very high risk of avalanches. Despite this, the kazajs Dennis Urubko and Sergei Samoilev made summit on tuesday and are descending to base camp. This is his 10th 8000 meters for Urubko. Best wishes. Jorge.

Update 4/10/2006: Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, arrived last Friday 7th of April to Manaslu base camp, located al 4.850 meters. Ochoa de Olza, who has nine 8.000+ meters, will try to climb the mountain via the northeast ridge. Ochoa de Olza found a lot a snow in the mountain, but he said that the weather seems good. He climb in a strong internatinal group who includes, among others, Dennis Urubko and  Jorge Egocheaga. Saturday 8th, he climbed until 5.500 meters, near Camp I. Jorge

Note: This is Peter Guggemos's expedition....

Earlier update: Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, will depart march 13th to climb Manaslu (8.163 meters) and Dhaulagiri (8.172 meters), two of the five 8.000 meters that he hasn't climbed yet (the others are Kangchenjunga, Annapurna and Shisha Pangma Main). Ochoa de Olza, 38 years old from Pamplona (Navarra), will be in Manaslu with a strong international group that, usually, will attempt the normal route on the mountain. The climbers will be the Jorge Egocheaga, the Denis Urubko and Sergei Samoilev, the Sergei Bogomolov, the Gia Torladtze, the Horia Colibasanu and Peter Guggemos. They plan to install base camp at 4.600 meters in April. Ochoa de Olza will arrive sooner to make some trek before. This will be the second time Ochoa de Olza will be in Manaslu. In

1999 he was there working for the Spanish public television, but the snow didn't allow them to progress from the base camp. After that, Ochoa de Olza will go to attempt Dhaulagiri (8.172 meters) normal route with the italians Luca Vuerich, Romano Benet and Nives Meroi.

Ochoa de Olza climbed last year in 16 hours from the base camp to 8.000 meters but, looking the poor conditions of the snow in the final traverse down the foresummit to the real summit, he decided to come back. No one climber reached the summit of Dhaulagiri last year.  Jorge

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