Carstensz Pyramid Seven Summit Expedition - October 2003

Tembagapura

It was still raining and was late in the day when we arrived at Tembagapura the mining town site and were offloaded at an Army safe house across from the Military Police Station. We were shuffled into a room where we met our Dani porters, climbing guide, base camp cook, and various other Army personnel including the Mine liaison officer. We would be moving out soon and needed to quickly sort out our gear, we would be leaving here our non-climbing items locked up in one of my gear bags. We soon learned there would be a change of plans; originally we were to stay here for a few hours waiting for further darkness, now we were rushing to get our gear repacked so we could leave. The other climbers had arrived in Jakarta a few days prior to me and had most of their gear brought over with our agent to Timika. I needed some time to sort out my gear and put into manageable loads for the porters who would be taking the gear up the Mine cable car to the top of the mine area known as Grasberg, a Dutch word meaning lawn on mountain, this is where the open pit mining is done. They would then be picked up by Army personnel and taken to the Army Outpost where we would meet up again.

As we were loading into the truck concerned being expressed by the driver the agent and Army officer, others started to gather around. The new driver didn’t know we had women in our group until he stepped into the truck and looked back. We now found out that women are not allowed to be above the Mine town site and he was very concerned about this. Our agent and the Army officer quickly sorted this out, we got into a different vehicle, one that is licensed to take us through the underground tunnel, and we departed.

Immediately we started to ascend quickly, at mile 74 at about 8500 ft, we entered the tunnel; we were amazed at the engineering marvel that was before our eyes. We had to put on the mine security guard vests and hard helmets to blend in with mine procedures. We would be underground for 45 minutes driving through carved out rock walls and roads, water now running everywhere. Intersecting roads criss-crossed as we spiralled our way underground up through the mountain. Off to the side we would see huge steel doors, which were a gateway leading further into the underground mine. It made you wonder how many miles of road and how much manpower and equipment were under this mountain. We would see huge low squat mining vehicles parked off to the side as well as the odd person walking with his headlamp on. We met up with a vehicle driving towards us the wrong direction on this one-way road. We waited as he backed up to an area where we could pass, it turned out to be a Mine security vehicle.

We were driving up through 10840 ft with my watch showing a time of 5.34pm just as we drove out of the tunnel, the truck abruptly stopped. We had to quickly jump out with our gear and hustle into another waiting vehicle, an Army truck, which would take us on up to what turned out to be the Army Outpost. Cloak and dagger stuff right out of a movie, only we were the actors.

Army Outpost

30 minutes later at about 6.00Pm we arrived to the Army Outpost, at 11850 ft. It’s an 8 by 20 container which holds about five/ six soldiers, here they patrolled the upper mine area. There were some mattresses spread out on the floor, a heat lamp, graffiti all over the walls, nicely done graffiti I might add, and a coffee pot. SS1 American made assault rifles were scattered about, leaning on the wall, propped up on a sleeping bag, and hanging on a nail. When ever a soldier went outside he always took his rifle. We jostled around this tiny room trying to find room to sit and get comfortable. We would now be waiting here until 2 or 3 am, before we would depart for the trailhead and base camp.

I was pleased that we were very close to getting on the trail to base camp, that’s when I felt we would truly be on our way. Over the years many people have come over to Irian Jaya with full expectations of getting to Carstensz to climb, only to be foiled at the airport upon arrival and sent back home. Countless climbers have been trying for years to get the opportunity to climb this mountain, waiting and waiting for a permit. Although I didn’t know for sure how close to the trailhead we were, I knew we were close.

We spread out the mattresses and got comfortable as we had about six hours to wait before we moved out. I took photos of the inside graffiti and decided to sign the wall with my trade-mark-saying, ” See you at the Top”. Our agent told me as I filmed him how everything was going fine, no problems at all. We were reminded again how we could take the soldiers pictures but only for our personal use. I thought to myself how having them on film might come in handy later on, just in case.

We had gone from Timika up to the top of the mine in 4 ½ hours and would now wait until it is safe to make our way to the trailhead unseen. I had my photo taken with me holding up the machine guns in various positions and then sat down. I was a little tired from jet lag but still pretty pumped up all the same. How could you not be with what we had just experienced. It all seemed to be going according to plan, maybe too well, too easy, I leaned back against the wall and thought to myself. I closed my eyes and rested.

An Army escort was required every time we went outside to relieve ourselves, and we had to wear an Army coat and hat. It was now cool and dark with a steady drizzle of rain, with fog moving by. It smelt so refreshing as I stood outside wondering about the days to come.

11.45 pm

I opened my eyes as our agent stepped back into the Outpost with the 2^nd LT Commander; I watched their lowered heads and heard them speaking in with hushed tones. What was up? I grabbed my video camera. I couldn’t believe what I was hearing, reminded me of being up at the South Summit of Everest in 1998 when I was told we had run out of rope. Our agent said that the Mine Intelligence knew we were on the mine site, somehow word had gotten out, and they had informed the Army. According to the 2nd LT we had to leave for Timika NOW, his Commander said to him to get us out, we would have to fly out to Jakarta tomorrow morning, other wise we would be arrested for entering the mine illegally. They said to us that this was the end of the expedition, it was now over.  If we didn’t leave now we would all be arrested and all the people involved in getting us hear feared losing their jobs or worse. I didn’t here what the worse might be.

I asked who was going to arrest us? What would actually happen? They said the mine security would arrest us. I said lets get off the mine then, let’s move up to the trailhead. We were up at the top, although I didn’t know if it was a 20- minute walk to get to the trailhead or an hour. The other problem was we didn’t know what direction to go; we needed our agent’s help. He said that since we had been exposed, and we left for the trailhead, that it would be impossible to come back through the mine without being arrested. My thought was to get out of the mine site, go to base camp and worry about how we get out later. I wasn’t really worried about that aspect, we had a sat phone and a few of us had contacts we could call from the mountain. No way was I going back to Jakarta, I had too much time and effort invested.

I started running options through my head, a little dazed by the quick turn of events. Should we leave for base camp now and make a go of it, can we get someone on the phone to talk to about paying off whom ever else, were we being scammed? Who really new what was going on? I wasn’t confident that we were getting the straight goods, obviously something wasn’t right and I was trying to get a read on the situation. Had this been the plan all along, take our money and run? No it couldn’t be, I had done a lot of research on our Agent and had repeatedly been told how trustworthy he was. My mind was a flurry of thoughts, planning, improvising, what ifs.

They kept saying how it is too risky for us to try and go to base camp, how it will cause severe problems for everyone that was involved up to this point.

Suggestions were being bandied around by our agent who I felt might be giving us other possible suggestions just get us off the mine site now. I was really trying to get a good read on this but wasn’t convinced we were being given all the information. Something was missing. We were all talking out loud asking questions. As we further pushed for answers we were told that the Mine intelligence had told the Military intelligence that there were people on the mine site unauthorized, and that they needed to get off immediately or there would be grave consequences. I kept thinking about how close we were to the outer mine boundary and trailhead, and how once there we would be ok.

Then the kicker was then thrown into the mix, the 2nd LT said all our gear bags had already left in a truck and had been taken down to Timika. That sealed our fate right there.

12 midnight

We are descending down to Timika.

I mentioned to the group that we needed to start thinking about a plan, looking at all possibilities, from people we knew to call, to hiring a helicopter to Zebra wall, to trekking in from another location. Let’s get it down on paper and look at options.

Well, setbacks are nothing new to me; it’s just a part of life. I started thinking overtime on how to overcome this situation we were in.  We discussed options as we descended the down through the mine. Flying into the villages like Illaga or Singha to start our trek into Carstensz was soon out of the equation, they were unsafe and dangerous, foreigner or not.  Hostage taking, shootings and lack of military would make it a suicide mission I was told.

On our way down I mentioned how it would be tough getting back through security as the word would certainly have gotten out that we were on the Mine and to be on the lookout. But we didn’t have any problem at all getting through, just a quick stop and a wave. I started wondering what was going on with that, had we really been duped?

We stopped at  the Tembagapura Army Outpost where we off loaded and waited 40 minutes until another vehicle would arrive to take us back to Timika. We sat inside and discussed the situation as I started writing down possible scenarios. Our Agent had been outside talking with the 2nd LT when he came in to talk to us. He stated that the Army 2nd LT and his people were very scared for their jobs and livelihood if we were caught. Even though all the money has been paid to them they cannot carry this plan out, not as it stands. He went on to say that in the morning he would meet with the Military Liaison officer to see if there is any way we can try and do this again, even if we have to pay more money. The next option would be to try and get the Army helicopter to fly us to Zebra Wall, although this has only been done once before, I had my doubts on that one.

After our agent returned for a second time we learned that the mine intelligence had no proof that we are on its property only that there was the possibility that unauthorized foreign people are there. I could see the stress that our agent was under in his furled brow,  he truly was deeply affected by what was happening.

Then I heard more discouraging news. The women climber in our group had just finished telling us that when she had gone outside the Army Outpost at the top of the mine she ran into a bad situation. She needed to go to outside to the bathroom and followed the Outpost Army officer outside, just like all of had to if we wanted to go outside the container. Now that she told me the story I remember thinking to myself as she walked back in through the doorway how she had been gone a very long time. Earlier in the evening I thought I heard the Army officer tell her that they had a toilet somewhere outside when she mentioned about a bathroom. I didn’t really pay any attention to their conversation. She now was telling us that the officer lead her to an area a little further away from the Outpost to go to the bathroom. She had finished but when she started walking back he said there was a vehicle coming and pushed her away in another direction. He then proceeded to grab a hold of her and held her against him as he tried to kiss her. She resisted and pushed him away somehow avoiding a serious situation. I was sort of dozing when she came back in and she didn’t mention a word to anyone of us at the time. She now told us she didn’t want to trigger a situation up there.

Timika

Sunday Oct 19^th

3.53 AM

We are back in Timika and settled into a Hotel, the Komoro Resort. I am tired and going to sleep as soon as I shower.

9.35 AM

I have been up for hours thinking about what had happened last night. I have now just come back from talking to the Military Liaison Officer and the 2^nd LT. It now seems that no one knew we were up on the mine site; no one had seen us, it was said that information had only been passed on that maybe some unauthorised people were on the site. This information burned me right through, as we were only minutes away from the trailhead hours earlier. I was thinking that someone within the chain of command, got cold feet, scared of what might happen and pulled the pin.  We would now have to coordinate getting back up through the Mine. Could we pull this off?

Our agent is thoroughly stressed; you can see it in his face. He told us how over the last few years the only way people are getting through to climb Carstensz is by doing exactly what we did yesterday. But it was a limited few people. He has been doing all the organizing for various clients and as recently as December 2002 was the last time the mountain had been climbed through his efforts. The difference this time though is that there has been more mine security stepped up because of the shootings that happened in August, and other political uprisings.

1.55 AM

We all just got out of a meeting with the Liaison Officer and 2^nd LT, and now have a new plan. What was missed in the prior plan we were told was paying off the mine security intelligence at the Airport. It was said that they reported to the Army, Military, and Police intelligence that there was foreigners on the mine site. I guess that it never went any further than that. In the past our agent had never had to pay them off, they were never part of the plan. The Army Liaison Officer was able to make a deal with them where if we paid them money they would turn a blind eye. They wanted a further $2000.00 US, of which we would split among us. I agreed to this with one non-negotiable condition, they would only get paid when we came back down to Timika from the climb, they agreed. I didn’t want to be in a situation where they again came up with another excuse and sent us down again. The other question I asked was if they were sure they have everyone paid off that needs to be, the answer was yes. The total dollars that would now be paid to the people would amount to $12,000.00 US. You can see why they would jump at this risky venture; the average monthly salary of a Private Army Officer we were told is $100.00 a month.

It was now set; we would leave Tuesday evening at 5.00Pm and retrace our steps back up.

We spent the next three days bound to our hotel complex, as it was advised we not be seen by anyone. We ate in the restaurant, stared at the ceiling, read and watched TV in our rooms. I still had a gear bag up at the Tembagapura Army Base, which contained many creature comforts, such as a book or even my dreaded razor.  I did have my cameras and tape recorder where I recorded my thoughts. The hotel was set in a quiet part of Timika, actually out of the way in a nice setting. The uncertainty was constantly in my thoughts, and time waiting around dragged on as we waited for our departure date. I couldn’t help thinking about the time being wasted waiting around, just sitting and being unproductive. I guess I should learn how to relax.

Monday Oct 20

Our gear was picked up today and taken up to the trailhead, to a hiding spot not far from the Zebra Wall, which is a landmark 20-30  minutes up the trail from the mine.

Tuesday Oct 21

6.30 PM

We are now in the vehicle working our way back up to the mine. The plan is for us follow the same procedure of travel that we did on Saturday, working our way through the six security check points, changing vehicles at the Army base, etc etc.

8.16 PM

Our driver was having problems shifting gears; it seems to me he just learned how to drive a std transmission vehicle. He had just stalled our vehicle in the middle of the mining road, and he can’t get it started. Not a great position to be in. Unbelievable.  After some time of trying to start the truck with no success they radioed the 2^nd LT who is up at mile 68 and now he’s on the way down to get us. The group driving and escorting us are different people than who we had rode with the other day. One of my concerns as we were stalled was that some other truck would come by and offer to take us up to the mine and find out who was in the vehicle. I asked whether we should jump out and hide in the ditch, they felt it was better to be inside. They finally got this rig running and we are on our way again, jerking around this steep bumpy road.

9.03 PM

We descended down into Tembagapura, the mining town that was lit up like the Las Vegas strip. It was amazing to see the infrastructure that was before my eyes, up here, in the middle of nowhere. We arrived at the Army safe house where we waited for the change of vehicles.

9.45 PM

We were just informed that we would not be moving up to the Outpost tonight as the vehicle that is licensed to go through the underground is not ready and that we have to wait until tomorrow evening.  Well all hell broke loose at this point; I wanted to know why we just found this out, what possibly could have changed in such a short period of time. We were given no answer, in fact all the people who could tell us have disappeared, vaporized into thin air. I told our agent to get the Liaison Officer on the phone now, as he was the one who assured us in Timika that everything was now handled. Once I was able to talk to him he proceeded to promise me that by 6 Pm tomorrow we would be on our way, 6 Pm sharp. I was really having a hard time believing that we would be on our way tomorrow, we were really in a poor bargaining position. Setback after setback, their excuses were wearing very thin.

I looked around this safe house, we were in utter disgust, no food, no heat, not drinkable water, no stove to boil water. We all wondered how on earth we were to sleep without any bedding, just a few mattresses, and without all our gear which had just been had been taken to the trailhead. I was seething at this point. Eventually someone brought over mattresses from another house, and broke into one of the rooms that were locked, this room had a bunk bed with one blanket.

Wednesday Oct 22

8AM

I heard a rustling noise coming from the side door and went over to it expecting to see one of our Army officers trying to get in. What I found just as I got there to open the door were two unfamiliar people dressed in plain clothes walking into the room. They we certainly startled.  I immediately woke our agent up and he spoke to these individuals. It seems they are a friend of one of the officers and were coming in to use the computer. Our agent called the officer who made sure his friends understood the situation.

We were room bound all day as we cannot be seen or heard by anyone outside the circle. At various times throughout the day I would peak through the curtains poking my camera lens out to take photos or to video the landscape.

5.PM

Our Guide, porter and cook have just left to take the cable car up to the top of the mine where we will meet them at the Army Outpost later this evening. I really have my doubts that we will be leaving on time tonight, if at all, something just seems not right.

6.PM

Our agent just came in and said that we won’t be leaving tonight. I knew it. We were now told that the turbo charger on the vehicle we are to use is broken and that they can’t find any other truck to use or to pay anyone else off to get us through the tunnels. They said it is going to take two days to get another turbocharger in,  I said it is unacceptable. Get us another vehicle tomorrow or get this one fixed, take the part off another vehicle if you have to but get this one fixed. I am so pissed off it is probably best that the little pricks are not in front of me. I spoke to the Liaison officer on the phone and explained in no uncertain terms what he needed to do to make this happen for tomorrow night.

Thursday Oct 23

Our agent passed me the phone; it was a call for me. On the other end was the Liaison officer who was assuring me that they were taking the turbo charger off another vehicle and that it would be fixed later in the afternoon. I told him I wanted to be updated every two hours on its progress. Do not tell me again at the last minute it can’t be fixed.

4.10PM

We just received confirmation that the vehicle is fixed and that we will be going up tonight at 6Pm.

7PM

We are loaded into the trucks and on our way up to the top of the mine.

11,850 ft - We arrived up at the Army Outpost where we quickly got organized and set off to the trailhead.

9.05 PM

We have just arrived up at the start of the trailhead where our gear had been stashed. We rearranged our backpacks and set off on our 4 hour hike to base camp. It’s a beautiful night, stars are shining, and in the background we hear the sound of heavy equipment working at the mine site.

Five armed Indonesian Army soldiers, plus our porter, guide, cook and agent accompany us giving a total of 13 people.

We ascend over rock, through tuffs of grass and walk past the famous Zebra Wall, a flat leaning wall that has these black and white streaks thus making it look like Zebra stripes.

We continue our way past a large lake working our way up valley where we will ascend up a steep climb to a high narrow pass called Wind Gate. This pass gives us access to Meren Valley where in 30 minutes time we’ll reach base camp. In the distance from the top of the pass you could look back and see the lights of the large heavy equipment that was moving around the mine.

Friday October 24th

1.12 AM

We arrived at Carstensz base camp at 4100 meters, or about 13500 ft. and are waiting for the others. My tent hasn’t arrived as of yet, so the soldiers have invited me to sleep in their tent. At times throughout the night you would hear a soldier patrolling around our camp making sure it was secure. They are concerned that the Rebel forces might try and take them by surprise. I’m thinking to myself, why on earth would anyone really want to be hanging out here if they are not climbing?  Anyway I really didn’t give it much thought.

I woke up early in the morning and walked up valley climbing up to a high point where I shot some video and took photos. I sat looking up at the incredible rock formations that had been carved out from the receding glaciers, the high towering faces that seemed to surround me. I was really amazed with the topography, I felt I was in a very special place. Up valley on my left was the Meren Glacier, further on up behind it was Ngga Pulu 4862 meters, the second highest mountain in this region.

Base camp sits between a larger glacial lake to the north of us and a small glacial pond that is used as our drinking source. I guess I shouldn’t have been peeing in that direction last night, but who would have known at the time eh? For the few people who had had the privilege of being here I was amazed at the garbage pile I now stood looking at. Plastic bottles, batteries, plastic bags and cans formed this mound, with old pieces of rope, string, wrappers etc that were not only in this pile but also scattered around this site. I talked to our agent about the importance of keeping this base camp area clean and the usage of a garbage bag, and how this is reflective on him and his people. I mentioned that he should be charging his clients a garbage cleanup fee (maybe $100.00 each) and make sure everything is packed out to the Mine site garbage dump. It doesn’t matter where I go around the world it a constant grind to educate people on being environmentally conscious and respectful of their land.

11.16 AM

My South African tent mate and I set up my tent and started organizing our gear. It started  raining shortly after so we stretched out and rested.

We had another change of plans; our agent wants us to go for the summit tonight at around midnight. We organize our gear and pack it.

Saturday October 25^th

1.00 Am

We have just left base camp for the 1-½ hour climb up a pass, which leads us over to Yellow Valley where we’ll start, our ascent up the vertical walls of Carstensz Pyramid. We will be climbing the NW Face up the normal route pioneered by Heinrich Harrer in 1962.   It’s a warm clear night, the stars are out in force.

30 minutes after leaving camp as we are ascending up to the pass our Agent calls us from below to say he can’t go on. I tell to him to slow his pace down and not try to keep up to us. After five more minutes he again calls up saying to our guide in Indonesian that he has to quit, he’s not feeling well. We ask him to pass up the rope he is carrying and we continue on.

We start descending down into Yellow Valley and make our way towards the NW face of Carstensz. Our guide is leading through the valley floor where we soon start to ascend towards the base of the mountain. It’s pitch dark and we can’t make out the mountain at all. I have seen photos of the route on the mountain but we are really just following behind our guide anticipating seeing the route shortly.

2.30 AM

Our guide can’t seem to find the hanging fixed ropes for us to start our climb; he is really having trouble getting his bearings on exactly where we are.  After some time he apologises for not being able to lead us to the start of our climbing face, and says that we now should go back to base camp and try again tomorrow. I tell him absolutely not, no way. We are not going to go back to base camp after all we’ve been through. Why do people want to give up so quickly? I start asking him questions on our position, trying to trigger something in his mind on where we are. I feel that what we need to due is methodically start traversing over to find the hanging ropes. I really can’t believe that he wants to give in so quickly; I just shook my head. We made a plan to start a methodical search traversing to the left and right looking for any indication of a hanging ropes and climbing route. After some time one member of our group feels he has spotted a trail working up to the face, he calls us over. I climb up on what looks like a worn trail leading up to a crack system but can’t see any fixed rope hanging down which would indicate our route. Two of the members start up the crack to take a look. Our guide at this point is off to the left lower down the mountain trying to find the route. I see his headlamp searching in vain for the correct way, the light shining back and forth. I keep thinking he still wants to leave for basecamp and yell down to him, encouraging him on. After quite some time of searching with no results, I suggest to everyone that we just hang tight where we are for a few hours until the sun starts to light the sky, then we’ll be able to see where we are in relation to the route.

Our guide reappears unsure where he got off track. Dawn is coming, far off in the distance I can start making out Meren Glacier a valley over, and off to my right I can just make out Carstensz Glacier. At least I know we are in the right country.

5AM

With the sky turning a lighter shade, one of the South African climbers spots the fixed rope off to our right, an incredible 60 feet away. It was so unbelievably close, not far from the crack system. It was so close but so far away, how did we miss this? I don’t know.

5.07 AM

We hastily got geared up and on our way. I gave our guide encouragement to keep moving, telling him we have lots of time to climb this mountain. He seems to start coming around a bit. I’m the first one on the rope climbing up onto the rock face. It’s an easy Jumar up onto the route that leads us up to a series of gullies and crack systems. The rock is great, lots of traction and firmness, good holds.

I clipped off the rope and worked my way up to a scree section leading to another crack. I looked behind me and caught this magnificent view of Meren and Carstensz Glacier, wow. The views were spectacular, the rock and formations really unlike anything I’d experienced before. The Yellow valley unfolded below us where we could look west looking straight towards Freeport Mine.  Off in the distance were numerous peaks rising up, pure magic. The weather was great, clear blue sky with no cloud build up anywhere in sight.

I was feeling excellent, very strong considering what we’d been through, lack of sleep etc. It’s amazing what you can do on adrenaline. The climbing was going quickly, in fact easier than I had anticipated, as the route was straightforward. I was having a great time, and it was a great feeling to be finally be on this mountain climbing. Although the Freeport Mine was only miles away, it seemed we really were alone, a great feeling.

We continued working our way up the crack systems, arriving at an area ¾ of the way up the face. This is where it looks like something has taken a huge bite out of the face. I climbed up a short section of scree and waited for the others to arrive, the guide followed me up and pointed out the route above. I was very impressed with the rock, it was excellent to climb on, firm and solid, unlike the limestone I was used to climbing back home. The weather worn rock was quite sharp in most places requiring you to wear gloves. You could tell that the rock would be superb even in the rain.

Once the others caught up and had a rest we were off. It was at this point that our guide said he could no longer go on, he sat down. Maybe the quick ascent to this altitude was a bit more than he could handle as we had come up rather fast. I felt great and continued on.

We scrambled up scree and rock to where we climbed up the obvious crack system leading to the West ridge. We arrived on top of the ridge at about 9.00 AM, climbing our way over to the first of the technical climbing. The ridge would eventually lead us to the summit some 700 meters away. Before we’d get there we had numerous technical sections to climb over with huge exposure making for spectacular airy climbing at altitude. Definitely not for anyone with vertigo.

In front of me was the 1st notch; we down climbed and rappelled down 25 feet climb to the notch bottom. I belayed one of the climbers as he rappelled down the face.  From here we had to climb up and over a huge bolder blocking the bottom of the notch. We climbed up the bolder working our way across it then climbed  back down onto the other side of the notch bottom. Now we would ascend the 40 ft shear rock face back up and onto the ridge, not for the faint of heart that’s for sure. As we didn’t know what condition the anchor was like up top we had to be very cautious climbing. In order to re-fix sections we had to scrounge around the discarded rope from past expeditions, un-knotting the frozen coils. From here we would use both our Jumars ascending up the rope to the top 40 ft above. On the north and south end of the notch was a vertical drop. This section took a bit of time for the four of us to all get up. As everyone was making their way up, I went on ahead to check out the route. I came back telling the others that we still had a ways to go over a few other obvious technical sections. From here we scrambled up and behind a huge section of rock (from the valley it looks like a large tooth sticking up) making our way over to another technical gap. We had before us one of the step across gaps, not super technical but it had I would guess a drop off on each side of about 3000 ft, straight down.  It certainly got your concentration level up, no room for error here.  After working our way up the very exposed ridge we crossed a few more tricky sections and came to what was another adrenaline pumping, shear drop notch.

It was shortly before noon. I really couldn’t make out the summit from this vantage point and I wondered how much further it was, I looked at my watch checking the time. The mist and clouds had been rolling in for the last couple of hours. Occasionally we’d see patches of blue sky then they’d disappear. We were engulfed in this fine mist where it seemed the sun super heated the water droplets making for the feeling we were in a convection oven.

At this point I’m thinking to myself that Heinrich Harrer was really a ballsy climber pulling this off 41 years ago. It is really a spectacular route.

We made our way over the exposed gap and now had to climb up a steep exposed broken rock face. We were being careful not to nock off rock on the others below or slip on the snow as we climbed. We had climbed past a few small areas of snow on the ridge but now were faced with having to climb up a very steep section on snow, which as you stepped on it, it turned to a ice under you feet. We would have to climb through this section very carefully.

We worked up and over to the South side of the mountain where we scrambled up to the final rock ledges leading to the summit.

1.00 PM

A thin mist congratulated us as we reached the top, congratulations and hugs went out.

I looked out over the landscape below, thought of my wife Jamie and son Zach. It was deja-vu all over again.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, “the mountains I’ve climbed just to climb that mountain” 

Byron Smith

Written authorization is required to use any of the above information. Copyright Byron Smith, 2003

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