The four member team is leaving Germany for Kathmandu on March 15, 2004.
The climbers Martin Nuess, Norbert Linz and Alexander Schwinn, led by Mr.
Angiolo Laviziano along with one climbing sherpa will try the normal route
(south wall/south-east ridge) which includes the set up of three high
camps (ABC, C1, C2). They won’t be accompanied by any high porters once they
have left basecamp. As this expedition is private and low budget we won’t
unfortunately hear anything from them above Namche Bazaar.
Source Ulrich Sure, Germany
Dispatch 1: March 16, 2004: The team has arrived in Kathmandu after a quiet
flight with one stopover in Sharjah, UAE. They were picked up at the airport
by the agency and checked in at the Hotel Nurbu Linka in Thamel. The afternoon
they spent with strolling through busy Thamel, looking around and checking the
vast variety of goods offered by the shops there. At the moment they are about
to have dinner before they will rest at the hotel after the long exhausting
flight and their first exciting day in Kathmandu.
Besides Pumori the team is planning to climb Lobuche East, a quite
technical so called trekking peak, 6.119 meters high. That's it for now. More
news to come. Ulrich Sure, Germany
Dispatch 2: March 17, 2004: The team's second day in Kathmandu. After a
nutritious breakfast at the hotel they set off for some sightseeing. At 2pm
they visited Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the famous mountaineering chronicler.
Afterwards Angiolo and Alex together with Rinchen Sherpa, Managing Director of
South Asia Treks (SAT), met with the Ministry of Tourism to sign the climbing
permit. They also paid their garbage deposit, which all expeditions are
required to pay. In addition to our four members an English climber joined the
permit. This guy is trying to solo Ama Dablam and Pumori in a row (!). He is
expected to arrive in Kathmandu on April 04, so it is most likely that they
won't see each other. Tomorrow it is time to take the gloves off. The team
will have an early start. Departure time for the Lukla flight is 7am - there
will be a lot of packing going on tonight.
So far Rinchen Sherpa (SAT) arranged everything highly professional.
A part of the group equipment has already been shipped to Lukla, the
gateway to the Khumbu. That's also the place where the Climbing Sherpa is
awaiting the expedition team. Everybody is feeling fit and healthy. The
tension is rising.
More news from Namche Bazar in a few days.
Ulrich Sure, Germany
Dispatch 3: March 19, 2004: Today the team arrived in Namche Bazar (appr.
3.500 m), the spiritual and commercial center of the Khumbu. It seems that
some members were hit by a small stomach bug. But that’s a part of the game
and shouldn’t cause major problems at this stage of the trip. The weather
could be better up there they complain. The cloudy sky doesn’t allow any view
on the surrounding snow covered peaks. Tomorrow on Saturday is market day in
Namche. The climbers don’t want to miss this colourful spectacle. An
acclimatization hike is scheduled for tomorrow as well. By now nobody of the
team is suffering from the altitude. Everything is working out at the moment.
The agency (SAT) is providing them with delicious food. The staff is nice and
friendly and the equipment (tents, ropes etc.) which has been shipped to Lukla
in advance is of good quality.
That’s it for now. Probably they will send over another update tomorrow.
Regards on behalf of Martin, Angiolo, Norbert and Alex.
Ulrich Sure, Germany
Dispatch 4: March 20, 2004: Namaste, this is unfortunately and definitely
their last update for the next weeks due to the fact that they don't carry any
communication devices with them. As everybody of the team is feeling fit and
strong they have decided to walk on to Tengboche (at appr. 3.800 m) instead of
resting another day in Namche in order to accelerate the acclimatization
process up there. Today's weather is brilliant - sun and blue sky. This is
another reason why they continue to Tengboche. The plateau offers stunning
views of the high Himalayan peaks, especially of beautiful Ama Dablam. At the
famous Tengboche monastery the climbers plan to buy prayer flags and want to
have them sanctified as well. Friday night everybody enjoyed the great food
offered by the bakeries and restaurants in Namche; sort of recharging their
batteries for the forthcoming challenges. Before leaving today they are going
to see the market.
All in all they are happy that everything is working out perfect and the
team is doing well. This is the way they want to go on. As soon as there is
the possibility they will be in touch again. Wish them luck. Thank you from
Ulrich Sure on behalf of the European Pumori 2004 Team.
"European Pumori Expedition
2004, Dispatch 5: Dispatch 5: April 13, 2004: Good and bad news from the
European Pumori Expedition 2004. The good one first: The team (Angiolo,
Martin, Norbert & Alex) is back in Namche Bazar, most of them healthy. Norbert
is recovering from a cold he caught on the mountain and Martin is suffering
from a sort of frost nip, one of his fingertips is numb. Nothing serious at
all. The bad one - especially for them: They did not reach the summit. The
last couple of days the weather was rather bad. It snowed a lot. They stayed 4
nights in camp 1 (6.200 m). On the fifth day as the schedule got tight the
climbers tried to get higher but heavy snowfall stopped them on their way up.
That was the moment they decided with heavy heart to leave Pumori. They
experienced their hardest descent ever. Remember: The team wasn't supported by
high porters, just the obligatory climbing sherpa accompanied them.
Today in Namche they are
enjoying all the delicious products of the German bakery - Yummy Yummy. If the
current situation allows it they will be back in Kathmandu in 2 or 3 days.
Thank you on behalf of the
whole expedition team. Ulrich Sure, Germany"
A picture of the camps on the
Pumori normal route.