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 SummitClimb Pumori 2004: Dispatch 9 | ||||||||||||||||
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Our Sherpas Jangbu, Maya, Lakpa, Shera, Gyalu, Tenzing, and Phurba Tamang have put the route up to Camp 1 at 6100 metres, and are working on the route to Camp 2 at 6500 metres. All members have been to ABC at 5750 metres, where we have pitched nine tents and set up a high-altitude kitchen with a skillful cook, Pemba Sherpa. Nearly everyone has now slept in ABC and explored the climb above. Mick and Aidan have been to camp 1, moving swiftly and cautiously; trying to become the first Irish to summit Pumori, and Marion has been climbing very strongly, trying to become only the second French woman to summit the peak after Chantal Mauduit became the first French woman with Daniel Mazur and a SummitClimb team in 1996. The weather has been sparklingly clear with a few mild wind squalls in the afternoons. Temperatures have ranged from -5 to +15 centigrade. Winds have been basically mild. 7 of us foreigners took a rest day in base today, with everyone enjoying a hot bath, delicious food, a bit of laundry, shaving, hairstyling, and basic lounging around in the sunshine on "Pumori Beach", while watching the team above making great progress on the snow, ice, and rock. Conditions here are snow free and unusually dry. It seems we are camped in some kind of high altitude desert, and the route is showing rocks in places we never imagined to find anything but deep snow and ice. Thanks for wishing us luck and we shall send more news later. Yours Sincerely, from Daniel Mazur and all of us at SummitClimb.com The French update is below...
Update 3/15/2004: Apres un trekking tres agreable dans la vallee du Khumbu, desertee en ce tout debut de saison, nous sommes arrives depuis quelques jours au camp de base du Pumori, a environ 5300 metres. Beneficiant de conditions meteorologiques tres favorables, bien que plutot froides, nous pouvons a loisir admirer le magnifique paysage qui s'offre a nous: le Pumori qui domine le camp, la grande face du Nuptse (du cote oppose), le Changtse, et bien sur le seigneur des lieux, Sa Majeste l'Everest. Les couchers de soleil, allant du jaune dense au rouge, sont un vrai regal. Les sherpas ouvrent en ce moment la voie d'ascension, qui emprunte un eperon en rocher puis de grandes pentes de neige et glace jusqu'a une epaule bien marquee, d'ou sera lance l'assaut au sommet. Tout cet itineraire se deroule face au Nuptse et a l'Everest: nous sommes tous tres impatients d'entrer dans le vif du sujet! Ceci suppose bien sur de suivre les regles classiques et incontournables de l'acclimatation a la haute altitude, et d'effectuer de nombreux allers et retours sur la montagne, avant de tenter le sommet. Apres avoir effectue un portage au camp de base avance (environ 5750 metres), nous allons ce soir y dormir pour, demain, monter au camp 1 et redescendre au camp de base se reposer... avant l'etape suivante, qui fera l'objet d'un prochain communique. -Marion Joncheres, de Paris
Dan Mazur – Leader USA Jay Reilly – Leader Australia Rex Dougherty USA Daniel Marino Australia Kirsti Samson UK Richard Lees UK Steve Hysko USA Mick Long Ireland Aiden Forde Ireland Ray Dolamore UK Bridgette Rossiter O’Flynn Ireland Marion Joncheres France Phil Aikman UK Thank you very much for reading, from and all of us at Summitclimb.com
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