Three miles across the Trango Glacier and just above the confluence of the
North and South Hainablak glaciers was the elusive Shipton Spire. It rises out
of the ice without hesitation; its walls looked fierce and steep.
It wasn't until the summer of 1996 that a strong North American/Australian
team finally conquered Shipton Spire 5900m. In 1995 Ryuji Taniguchi, the solo
Japanese climber perished in a massive rock fall while attempting the wall.
His haul bag was still 13 pitches up.
And in 1997 Jared Ogred and Mark Synnott made a New Route, Ship of Fools on
Shipton Spire. Since then many climbers from around the world including
Cecilia, Nan Darkis, Lizzy Scully, Charles Boyd, Greg Child, Greg Foweraker
tried their luck on this rock tower and a few like Fabio Dandri who makes the
Women and Chalk route and Jared Ogred and Mark Synnott who makes the Ship of
Fools route got success.
The climbing is hard. A long unprotected traverse across mixed ground over
the north face led to a steep section of crumbling rock with the consistency
of kitty litter.
Shipton Spire stands two hours walk from Trango Towers Group on Upper
Trango Glacier. A 29 pitch, 4,400 foot big-wall with the pitch rated 6c, 7b
and 7b+ that is certainly offer best technical climb you ever have.
From Islamabad a 24 hours drive will bring you to the gateway of Karakoram
mountain Skardu Valley. After making final arrangement another 8 hours jeep
drive and a 5-6 days walk will bring you to the base of Shipton Spire.
20 days for climbing from Base Camp and 15 days for Islamabad to base camp
and back to Islamabad. No peak permit is require, simply get a trekking permit
and travel with your guide and have a life time experience.
Asghar Ali Porik
M/s Jasmine Tours
GPO Box 859, Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
Tel: 0092-51-5586823 Fax: