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 Polish Bulgarian K2 Expedition: abort! | |||||||||
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Update 7/22/2005: the members of the Polish-Bulgarian “K-2 Team Expedition” – Anna Czerwinska, Doychin Boyanov, Boyan Petrov, Dariusz Zaluski and Leszek Cichy, have aborted their summit push and returned back to Camp 2 (6700 m) today. They spent last cold and windy night in the Camp 4 (7850 m). The climbers found too much unsettled powder snow over hard snow slabs on the SSE (Abruzzi) Ridge, causing big avalanches. The climb was simply too dangerous. The Polish-Bulgarian “K-2 Team Expedition” on the Abruzzi Spur includes as well Joanna Kowalczewska from Poland, Dr. Liubomir Mladenov (medicine) and Ivan Temelkov from Bulgaria. Update: Doychin Boyanov and Boyan Petrov from Polish-Bulgarian "K-2 Team Expedition" reached Camp 4 (8000 m) today. Last night we spent in the provisonal camp on 7700 m. Update: Last info from Polish-Bulgarian "K2 Team Expedition" - Anna Czerwinska, Doychin Boyanov, Leszek Cichy, Boyan Petrov, Dariusz Zaluski and Ivan Temelkov established Camp 3 (7600 m) and returned to Base Camp (5200 m). We fixed 1000 m rope on Black Pyramid. There are 4000 m fixed ropes on all Classical (Abruzzi) route. Update 7/13/2005: they all have reached 7350 and set up there camp 3. Update: This is last info from Polish-Bulgarian "K-2 Team Expedition": June 27 – Anna Czerwinska, Doychin Boyanov, Leszek Cichy, Boyan Petrov, Dariusz Zaluski established Camp 2 (6700 m). June 29 – Leszek Cichy, Doychin Boyanov, Dariusz Zaluski fixed ropes on the slopes of the Black Pyramid to 7150 m. We descended to Base camp this day. Earlier Update: The members of the Polish-Bulgarian "K-2 Team Expedition" reached Base camp (5200) at the foot of the mountain today June 19, with 85 porters. Everything is all right.
Polish-Bulgarian “K2 Team Expedition 2005” The expedition has 7 members (4 from Poland and 3 from Bulgaria).
Anna Barbara Czerwinska (Leader) climbed: 1979 - Rakaposhi (7788 m), new route, first woman ascent,
1983 – Broad Peak – Rocky Summit (8030m), first woman
ascent,
2002 – Ama Dablam (6856 m),
Leszek Cichy: 1974 – Shispare (7619 m), first ascent, 1975 – Gasherbrum II (8035 m), new route, 1980 – Mount Everest (8848 m), first winter ascent, 1984 – Yalung Kang (Kangchenjunga West, 8505 m). First Polish Seven Summits summiter.
Dariusz Zaluski:
1988 r.- Hagshu (6300 m) in
Zanskar, first ascent, .
2001 r. - Lhotse (8516 m). Joanna Kowalczewska is a rookie in the high mountains.
Doychin Boyanov has climbed Mount Everest (8848 m) without oxygen in 2004.
Ivan Temelkov has ascended at that time 8600 m (without oxygen too).
Bulgarian Boyan Petrov (February 07, 1973) is attempting K2 this summer, but Boyan’s toughest challenge is the one he faces every day type 1 diabetes. Challenges are something Boyan does not shy away from, and he doesn’t let diabetes control his life. Besides following a personal dream, Boyan’s adventures are meant to prove to the rest of the world that diabetes is an illness that can be controlled and overcome, even in the most extreme environments. “Eli Lilly” - major American pharmaceutical manufacturer, is this year sponsor for his attempt on K2. The expedition is part of the programme to climb the Seven summits. Boyan has climbed McKinley (6195 m), Akoncagua (6959 m), Elbrus (5642 m) and peak Kaufman (in the past – peak Lenin, 7134 m).
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