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Update: On Friday, June 12,
Radek Jaros and Petr Masek, members of the two-man HI-TEC V -LITE Nanga
Parbat-K2 Czech Expedition climbed back to their CII, just above the
Kingshoffer Rocks. Their plan was to bypass CI, to move to CII in a single day
and to continue up, ideally all the way to pitch CIII at around 7000m.
Lately, the weather had been
warmer and the sunshine sharper than a week ago, which had two important
consequences, a good one and a bad one. The snow down under the mountain and
on the lower slopes had become firm and icy, making it much easier and faster
to move forward. On the other hand, while week ago avalanches were enormous,
but rather rare, now the series of avalanches coming one right after
another, resembled of a train traffic on a super-busy track. Eventually, the
avalanches took a break and Radek and Petr reached the Kingshoffer Rocks.
Exactly as the week before, climbing the rocks alone took them 4 hours.
Anyway, they made it from the BC to CII in a single day. No other climbers
have been above the rocks this year, as yet.
The CII place is an
extra-narrow ridge between edges of steep, kilometer-deep throats on both
sides. On one side, their tent was just five inches from the edge, on the
other one, there were about thirty feet between the tent and the other
edge. What a shock -- when they reached the place, their tent that their had
pitched with such a wear and tear a week ago and had put every effort in
securing it against the high wind in this infernal place, was nowhere to be
seen! No sign of it. It took few minutes before they figured out that the tent
is just fine, still there, almost right under their feet, totally hidden
under the new snow, incl. the five-feet poles. The night was reasonably
comfortable.
On Saturday, June 11, they
try to move up. It was obvious already the week before that moving above CII
would be very difficult, due to enormous masses of deep, soft snow. Since last
week, the new snowfall has made any progress even more difficult. For a large
expedition, breaking the trail in this deep snow might be bearable. However,
there is no other expedition up this high on Nanga, and no large expedition is
anywhere in sight. Radek first and then Petr start breaking the trail,
constantly sinking waist-high into the soft snow. Petr shows an admirable
persistence, yet, the progress is very slow and only after some 50 altitude
meters it becomes obvious that they will have to retreat back to the tent.
They manage to do so just in time before a storm comes. The night -- at this
place, between two kilometer-deep holes, in a tent constantly challenged by
the storm -- becomes a torture of a sort. Radek spends the night with an ice
axe in his hand and he even considers putting on his harness and fixing an ice
screw through the floor of the tent, securing them that way. At 4:30AM they
get up and it feels liberating. In the snow storm it is clear that their only
way leads down, to the BC
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