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  Expedice HI-TEC V-LITE Nanga Parbat - K2 2005: retreat, but pushing up again!


Copyrightę Billy Pierson: Murph goes to K2: The best K2 video on the planet: VHS or DVD

Update: They retreated to C2 and want to try C3 and C4 from tomorrow (aware of the heads-up that the weather should worsen since the end-month). They say that clouds are all around Nanga but it has been completely clear above it for two days now.

There is still deep, only partly settled snow, between C2 and C3, and a lot of unsettled snow on the traverse above C3 (Diamir face). The lope shows signs of many major avalanches that have fallen over the past few days and keep falling, so the snow is getting loose or settles down.

Earlier Update: Good morning, EverestNews.com: 

A brief update on the  HI-TEC V-LITE Nanga Parbat-K2 Expedition : Faced with the weather forecast predicting a change in the weather several days from now, Radek Jaros and Petr Masek changed their plans of yesterday and instead of returning to the BC they are trying to push forward and reach C4. There is enormous amount of snow on the traverse, still unsettled, so they may not succeed (in a party of just two). And it certainly it is pretty dangerous. They are in our thoughts.

Earlier Update: Radek Jaros and Petr "Meeska" Masek, aka HI-TEC V-LITE Nanga Parbat-K2 Czech Expedition, left the BC at 2AM on Friday and arrived to their C2. Today, they continued up and successfully established their C3. It has been 23 days since they had built C2 and after three climbs to the C2.

No one else has been above the C2 this year yet, but two other climbers made it to above the Kinshofer Wall yesterday and built their C2

more details based on a call with Radek, who is currently spending a night at 6800m on NP.  

Radek Jaros and Petr "Meeska" Masek, aka HI-TEC V-LITE Nanga Parbat-K2 Czech Expedition, left the BC at 2AM on Friday and arrived to their C2 during the morning. It was their third climb to the C2 since June 2, but the weather and the record 5-year snow mass didn't let them further up before.

No other expeditions have been up to the C2 until Friday, but on Friday two other climbers reached the top of the Wall and established their C2. It is still part of their acclimatization, so they would not continue further above C2, at this stage.

At 5AM on Saturday, Radek and Petr set to climb to C3. The snow mass is, according to Radek's telephone call, still enormous and still rather unsettled. The climb and braking the trail in a party of two, constantly sinking up to their knees or even waist, was horribly taxing. It took them 12 hours to reach the place for the C3 at 6800m and two more hours to build the tent.

In the traverse above C3, there is still a huge mass of unsettled snow, which will be very hard to brake in a group of just two. Therefore, Radek and Petr plan to return down to the BC on Sunday and to give the snow 2-3 more days to fall down or to settle -- and their bodies to recover before they launch a summit bid.

The "real fun" of the entire 12-hour climb from C2 to C3 was 300 vertical meters of clear water ice. Petr ("Meeska") was in the lead. It took 3 hours to climb this part.

Updates

 

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