In delayed reporting from base camp:
expedition: descreasing chances, increasing determination
on K2 is constantly changing…changing for the worse. The climbing teams on the
mountain – including the MOL-K2 expedition –have not been able to move away
from the base camp. The awful weather has decimated the number of climbers
aiming for the 8611 meter peak. The Japanese, the Irish and the Bulgarian team
has already left, the Americans are seriously thinking about it. The MOL team
is hanging on.
As it seems,
only a well-coordinated, combined effort by the teams on the mountain has a
chance of reaching the summit of K2 this year. Therefore, as Lajos Kollár, the
leader of the MOL-K2 expedition has told us, the teams held an expeditionary
meeting in the base camp, in order to coordinate their efforts.
revealed that the Norwegian and the American groups,which have been on the
mountain for two months, are likely to go home empty-handed. The Polish team,
which stayed on alone after the departure of the Bulgarians, definitely
continues its mission. Their primary aim is to bring their 55-year-old
climber, Anna Czerwinska to the top of K2. The goals of the MOL-K2 expedition
are similar – to get some of their climbers to the summit.
the forecasts – which have been changing daily, usually for the worse – a
two-three day improvement is expected on the mountain from Friday. Of course,
this period is not long enough for a summit push, but long enough to build
their highest camp – camp III – at 7300 meters. After that they have to
survive „only” the stormy period expected to last till the middle of August,
and then some members of the team might have a chance of attacking the summit
that seems to be even more formidable than usual
Camp 2 has been set up by
the MOL-K2 expedition
The MOL-K2 expedition’s camp
1 and camp 2 have been set up by taking advantage of last days’ good weather
conditions. After the weekend stormy weather is to be expected, but as soon as
it’s gone our climbers hopefully are going to be ready for the summit push.
As the team leader Lajos
Kollár reported, four members of the team (Katalin Csollány, Zsolt Erőss,
Markos Huba, Jaro Dutka) have reached and set up camp 2 at 6700 meters. After
spending the night they have returned to the base on Wednesday. If good
weather conditions remain the other 3 members of the MOl-K2 expedition (Lajos
Kollár, László Mécs and Dan Borcea) will take a look at camp 2, to sort the
equipment and to acclimatize. Zoltán
EXPEDITION Lajos Kollár, Hungary – Expedition Leader
organizer-leader of the expedition. He started climbing in 1972 mainly in the
Tatras, The Alps and in the Caucasus. Later he led two Trans-Greenland
Expedition .He organized and led the 2003 Hungarian Gasherbrum I-Ii Expedition
where 9 climbers summated out of the 12 members including 3 women, whom were
the first Hungarian females to step on an 8000er summit
László Mécs, Hungary –
The technical leader of the expedition. He summited Broad Peak (2000) and
Gasherbrum II (2003) He led a Hungarian Everest Expedition in 2001 from the
north. He is a mountain climbing instructor.
Huba Markos, Hungary
He was a member of the 2001 Hungarian Everest Expedition. He is a mountain
climbing- and ski instructor.
Zsolt Erőss, Hungary
He is a Snow Leopard (climbed all 7000 meter peaks in the former Soviet Union)
and the first and only Hungarian summiter of Everest (2002) He also stan on
the top of Gasherbrum II (2003) and climbed a new route to Gasherbrum I, but
turned back 100 meters from the summit (2003).
Csollány, Hungary She is one of the first three Hungarian women who scaled an
8000 meter mountain (2003 Gasherbrum II)
Dan Borcea, Romania: Two times winner of the Romanian climbing championship.
He climbed in the Caucasus and in Turkey. He did a solo alpine style climb of
Korzhenevskoi in the Pamir.
Jaro Dutca, Slovakia
He started climbing in 1974. He summated Mount Everest (1998) and climbed
technical routes in the Trango Towers and the Khumbu Himalaya region.
Update: The team just left
Islamabad today (1st of July) to Skardu.
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