Update about Kazakhs and
Polish and MOL-K2 expedition
Hi there, Just a very short
update from Lajos Kollar, leader of Central european MOL expedition (made at
16th Aug 23pm): they don't know anything about the Kazakhs, but the 2 Polish
are descending, they are at C2, supposed to spend the night there, maybe
tomorrow they will get back to BC. All members of our expedition are at BC,
safe and well. Weather is getting worse and worse. I try to write more in the
morning, these are the main news, we don't know any further about Kazakhs and
Polish at this time. Cheers, Tamás Márkus Sportpiac
MOL-K2 expedition: Zsolt
Eross has decided to turn back
Eross Zsolt, the MOL-K2
expedition’s only summit climber to had reached 8200 meters, where he decided
to turn back, because of the atrocious weather conditions on the mountain. The
’Ounce’ had left Camp 4 at 2 a.m. (local time) on the 15th of August, and he
fought with the mountain for almost ten hours, before giving in to it. His was
the first and only summit push of the Hungarian-Slovakian-Romanian MOL-K2
Lajos Kollar, the leader of
the expedition, informed us on the phone that Zsolt Eross has returned to Camp
4 (on 7700m) to his teammates, Katalin Csollany and Jaro Dutka. Eross was
climbing with a Kazah team, but on 8200m he decided to turn back. They were
trodding in snow that was up to their chests, facing winds over 100 km/h. They
spent five hours covering only a small distance. The three Kazah climbers
decided to continue climbing, despite the life-threatening conditions.
MOL-K2’s three-member team
are on their way to camp 3, while the others have started climbing from the
base camp, to dismantle the camps. The group is likely to leave the mountain
on the 18th of August. They are expected to arrive to Hungary at the end of
ZSOLT EROSS: The first
Hungarian ’Ounce’ was member of numerous Tien-San, Caucasus, Pamir and
Himalaya expeditions. Climber of three Himalaya eight thousands, the Nanga
Parbat (8125 m), the Gasherbrum II. (8035 m.) and the first Hungarian to climb
the Mount Everest
3 members of the MOL-K2
Expedition spent the night at Camp 4 yesterday: Jaro Dutca, Katalin Csollany
and Zsolt Eross. This morning at 2 AM, Zsolt Eross left for the summit
following the Kazakh climbers’ trail. Jaro and Katalin are waiting for him at
The team's contact send
us the below and stated he thought they were in camp 3 right now..
The MOL-K2 expedition seems
not to give it in to the bad weather?
Right now it looks like this
is not the lucky time for the MOL-K2 expedition to conquer the K2 summit, but
no matter what they seem to take the challenge. In spite of the bad weather
that strikes the mountain the Slovak-Hungarian-Romanian team is about to take
off for the summit.
According to most recent
forecasts, days between the 13th and the 16th of August, comparing to last
weeks’ weather experience, are going to be the most adequate to reach the 8611
meters high mountain top. This period of time is going to be used by the
climbers to take their – most likely only and last – chance for the push.
All the camps needed has been
set up, and hopefully these next days are going to be enough for the attempt
and for the safe return as well. After the 16th weather is going to turn
beyond all bearings on K2, so as late as the 18th the MOL-K2 expedition will
have to be gone from the site. According to the plans by the 20th they are
going to arrive to Skardu.
As Lajos Kollár reported to
sportpiac.hu yesterday, there are few left on K2 who still have trust in the
success. The most enduring team, the Norwegian, and by now only the recently
arrived expedition from Kazakhstan, two Polish, one American and one
Australian climber is to be found there with the Hungarian mixed group.
Lajos Kollár’s report from
yesterday (10th) explained a lot about the weather: „ It’s been a month since
we arrived to the K2 base camp, but only 6-7 days were acceptable. Not good,
or great, only quite acceptable. Those who spent here two months, like the
Norwegians couldn’t be more content either.” As it has been said earlier, the
K2 is the only mountain in the Karakorum-Himalaya that hasn’t been conquered
by anybody this season. If it’s up to the weather it will remain like that.
Source: Team and Sportpiac (www.sportpiac.hu)
In delayed reporting from base camp:
expedition: descreasing chances, increasing determination
on K2 is constantly changing…changing for the worse. The climbing teams on the
mountain – including the MOL-K2 expedition –have not been able to move away
from the base camp. The awful weather has decimated the number of climbers
aiming for the 8611 meter peak. The Japanese, the Irish and the Bulgarian team
has already left, the Americans are seriously thinking about it. The MOL team
is hanging on.
As it seems,
only a well-coordinated, combined effort by the teams on the mountain has a
chance of reaching the summit of K2 this year. Therefore, as Lajos Kollár, the
leader of the MOL-K2 expedition has told us, the teams held an expeditionary
meeting in the base camp, in order to coordinate their efforts.
revealed that the Norwegian and the American groups,which have been on the
mountain for two months, are likely to go home empty-handed. The Polish team,
which stayed on alone after the departure of the Bulgarians, definitely
continues its mission. Their primary aim is to bring their 55-year-old
climber, Anna Czerwinska to the top of K2. The goals of the MOL-K2 expedition
are similar – to get some of their climbers to the summit.
the forecasts – which have been changing daily, usually for the worse – a
two-three day improvement is expected on the mountain from Friday. Of course,
this period is not long enough for a summit push, but long enough to build
their highest camp – camp III – at 7300 meters. After that they have to
survive „only” the stormy period expected to last till the middle of August,
and then some members of the team might have a chance of attacking the summit
that seems to be even more formidable than usual
Camp 2 has been set up by
the MOL-K2 expedition
The MOL-K2 expedition’s camp
1 and camp 2 have been set up by taking advantage of last days’ good weather
conditions. After the weekend stormy weather is to be expected, but as soon as
it’s gone our climbers hopefully are going to be ready for the summit push.
As the team leader Lajos
Kollár reported, four members of the team (Katalin Csollány, Zsolt Erőss,
Markos Huba, Jaro Dutka) have reached and set up camp 2 at 6700 meters. After
spending the night they have returned to the base on Wednesday. If good
weather conditions remain the other 3 members of the MOl-K2 expedition (Lajos
Kollár, László Mécs and Dan Borcea) will take a look at camp 2, to sort the
equipment and to acclimatize. Zoltán
EXPEDITION Lajos Kollár, Hungary – Expedition Leader
organizer-leader of the expedition. He started climbing in 1972 mainly in the
Tatras, The Alps and in the Caucasus. Later he led two Trans-Greenland
Expedition .He organized and led the 2003 Hungarian Gasherbrum I-Ii Expedition
where 9 climbers summated out of the 12 members including 3 women, whom were
the first Hungarian females to step on an 8000er summit
László Mécs, Hungary –
The technical leader of the expedition. He summited Broad Peak (2000) and
Gasherbrum II (2003) He led a Hungarian Everest Expedition in 2001 from the
north. He is a mountain climbing instructor.
Huba Markos, Hungary
He was a member of the 2001 Hungarian Everest Expedition. He is a mountain
climbing- and ski instructor.
Zsolt Erőss, Hungary
He is a Snow Leopard (climbed all 7000 meter peaks in the former Soviet Union)
and the first and only Hungarian summiter of Everest (2002) He also stan on
the top of Gasherbrum II (2003) and climbed a new route to Gasherbrum I, but
turned back 100 meters from the summit (2003).
Csollány, Hungary She is one of the first three Hungarian women who scaled an
8000 meter mountain (2003 Gasherbrum II)
Dan Borcea, Romania: Two times winner of the Romanian climbing championship.
He climbed in the Caucasus and in Turkey. He did a solo alpine style climb of
Korzhenevskoi in the Pamir.
Jaro Dutca, Slovakia
He started climbing in 1974. He summated Mount Everest (1998) and climbed
technical routes in the Trango Towers and the Khumbu Himalaya region.
Update: The team just left
Islamabad today (1st of July) to Skardu.
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