Pierson: Murph goes to K2: The best K2 video on the planet:
23 August, 2005 The team has
rested and began the second attempt of the summit bid. "We start today to ABC,
then to higher camps . The weather's stable. Greetings!" The team's problem
with Thuraya's accumulator - it's very hard charged because the adapter on the
solar battery has broken. Therefore they had to buy the same from the Polish
team, but here's the NOTE: Polish take away the charged device with
themselves, but Kazakhs device doesn't approach to this accumulator. So guys
won't be able to charge accumulator after it dies. We hope two batteries will
be enough for the connection during the climb and in BC after it.
K2/G1/G2-Weather:(Be Careful on
The weather is still better
except some isolated clouds formation at evenings/afternoons; But High Winds
are heading towards Northern Areas of Pakistan, likely to approach on
Wednesday Evening, Thursday will be Bad/Hard for all Peaks. Weather is
expected to improve again from Friday. Weather will be Very Bad from
“Last Few Days of Aug to First Week of Sept.”
No news on the
Pakiatani Weather forecast:
K2/G1/G2-Weather (Last Good Window of 5/6 days… starting from Saturday). The
prevailing clouds are leaving the areas of K2/G1/G2,Saturday will be much
better with normal winds from SW. Some local clouds formation likely at
evening/afternoon, but No Stormy conditions expected to develop in next few
days. A good & last window (5/6 days) of this month is starting from
18 August, 2005 Maxut Zhymayev
from BC: "We started to the top at midnight, as planning. Too much snow at the
Mount. All of us trailed break in turn. We turned back about 7 p.m., at the
altitude 8500. There were four of us, so when Eross Zsolt said he saw three
climbers - that's wrong.
the weather's very bad, so we managed to descent only to Camp 3. Our phone's
battery died, and we couldn't relate with anybody. Now we're resting in BC.
Hungarian expedition has left for home, Polish will leave the day after
tomorrow. And we'll rest some days and then decide what to do further... All
Update 8/17/2005: No news, the hope is
their batteries are not working...
The 2005 K2 Kazakhstan
Expedition has not yet reported in..... Tuesday evening is forecasted to be
slightly Hard. Wednesday is forecasted to be bad. They need to get down....
The 2005 K2 Kazakhstan
Expedition team began to climb up from Camp 4. There're a lot of stars on the
sky! They had planned to leave at midnight.
Update: Be Careful on
Tuesday Evening.. Evening may be slightly Hard. Wednesday/Thursday again bad.
The weather report from
Pakistan: "K2/G1/G2-Weather (Avail this window of 2/3 days): Weather is clear,
Upper Winds are still high but falling gradually. Sunday/Monday and almost
Tuesday are much better, Try to avail this window of 2/3 days. Weather will be
bad again on Wednesday/Thursday. Good Luck for All Climbers."
first time this season they call for a "window" on K2. Note this is K2
weather, NOT great weather, ASSUMING the weather holds a climber would still
need to be fast and strong enough to climb in not great conditions and get
back DOWN before the bad weather moves in. This is a very high risk sport...
Climbers should depend solely on a forecast and must be aware of changing
conditions, especially on K2!!!
Update 8/13/2005: The
Kazakhstan climbers are moving to Camp 3.
Update 8/12/2005: The
Kazakhstan climbers are in Camp 2 and are having dinner! It is warm with
strong winds. The Polish climbers are coming up to join them and they plan to
Camp 3 together.
The Pakistan weather
forecast predicts: Upper
Winds are still high (from SW) making weather bad, Wind likely to decrease
gradually from Saturday. Sunday/Monday much better, even first half of Tuesday
is also good. Weather will be bad again from Tuesday-Evening till
Thursday-Evening. Good Luck.
climbers yesterday early morning started their summit bid. They were in Camp1
(reached yesterday at 12-30 local time).
Kazakhstan climbers are
heading up to Camp 2. "The weather's still acceptable."
climbers are in Base camp resting. they are thinking of beginning the summit
bid tomorrow or day after.
Update: K2: Will the
Kazakhstan Expedition steal the show? (for our Russian readers, that is a good
Expedition has descended to base camp after their acclimatization push, which
was quick work of the mountain after just arriving.
Update: No news in on the Kazakhstan
Expedition, however it appears most of the others have turned back, some
making it back to base camp and others still on the way down. The weather is
forecasted to be bad until Tuesday, which is forecasted to be clear.
Update: The Kazakhstan Expedition appears
to have moved out in front. After just arriving at K2, the team is climbing up
to Camp 3. They said the way to camp 2 "was easy." Others are camp 2 including
2 Japanese climbers and others at camp 1.
Mick Parker is at Camp 2 helping
But the big news is the weather as always
the concern will get getting down IF one reaches the summit. Unstable
conditions, one must be very strong and fast..
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