Hello EverestNews.com, I
apologize for not sending out any messages, but our satellite phone did not
work (wrong contract as we found out from the only people passing by during
the two months - group of seven Russian high altitude trekkers).
We managed to get half way up
the mountain, but encountered very difficult conditions between C1 and C2, due
to extremely high temperatures during the day. We basically had a knee-high
river of water and ice crystals running over two sections of fixed ropes,
which would freeze overnight, and about 800m of fixed ropes had to be every
day cut out completely from the ice, making it impossible to move timely
between C1 and C2. After Allan was hit by falling stones, and made it by
miracle with bruises and cuts, we decided to retreat to ABC and wait for the
weather to cool down. Unfortunately it stayed hot (temperatures down in BC
were reaching 40oC) for several more days, so even the section to C1 began to
change into a river.
Serac/crevasse, which we used
for C1, and where we left the ropes and gear, literally closed in the end,
leaving us with not enough gear and time to continue climbing.
The camel ride back reflected
the quantity of water melting from the glaciers, and when we could finally
leave BC, it was still difficult and quite scarry to cross the rivers.
Best regards, Hana
Earlier: This experienced team consists of Louis Allec (CA), Jan
Kalousek (US), Helena Kopalova (US), Blanka Nedvedicka (CZ), Standa Silhan
(CZ), Dr. Hana Weingartl (CA) Leader and
Dr. Allan Bohn (CA)...
Earlier: K2-2006, Kashgar: Hello
EverestNews.com, here is our first note.
Following days of travel by
airplane, train and bus from different places (Canada, USA, Taiwan, Czech
Republic) all trekking and climbing members met yesterday in Kashgar in
After solving the expected
problems with emergency oxygen, generator, propane stove for the advanced base
camp, etc. we are now ready for the next part - two days on jeep through Yark
and to Illik and from there five days trek with camels to base camp.
The travel arrangements and
support are provided by Mr. Taher Anvar from Kashgar NewLand International
The trekking group will help
us with carrying gear and supplies to the advanced base camp.
We plan to attempt the North
Ridge in light weight expedition style without oxygen.
We would like to thank our
sponsors: Keystone Auto Repairs, Pigeon Mountain Industries, Maple Leaf
Constructions, Piston Ring, EverestGear,
Vertical Adventures, Pembina Chrysler, Metro Propane, The Battery man for
Thanks a lot, Hana
A strong international group of experienced mountain climbers from Canada, USA
and Czech Republic plan to attempt to summit K2 via North Ridge from China.
This daring project involves travel to one of the most remote places in the
world and difficult climb of the world’s most dangerous peak. The approach is
a 10 days hike using camels for transport of material. The climbing route is
extremely difficult-in rock classification (V) and ice (50-60%). The elevation
difference from advanced base camp to the summit is more than 3 vertical km.
Much more on this group in the future!
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