K2 2006: K2 2006 – Centennial of Alpine Club of Canada Expedition: Update

Copyright© Billy Pierson

Update: Hello EverestNews.com, I apologize for not sending out any messages, but our satellite phone did not work (wrong contract as we found out from the only people passing by during the two months - group of seven Russian high altitude trekkers).

We managed to get half way up the mountain, but encountered very difficult conditions between C1 and C2, due to extremely high temperatures during the day. We basically had a knee-high river of water and ice crystals running over two sections of fixed ropes, which would freeze overnight, and about 800m of fixed ropes had to be every day cut out completely from the ice, making it impossible to move timely between C1 and C2. After Allan was hit by falling stones, and made it by miracle with bruises and cuts, we decided to retreat to ABC and wait for the weather to cool down. Unfortunately it stayed hot (temperatures down in BC were reaching 40oC) for several more days, so even the section to C1 began to change into a river.

Serac/crevasse, which we used for C1, and where we left the ropes and gear, literally closed in the end, leaving us with not enough gear and time to continue climbing.

The camel ride back reflected the quantity of water melting from the glaciers, and when we could finally leave BC, it was still difficult and quite scarry to cross the rivers. 

Best regards, Hana

Earlier: This experienced team consists of Louis Allec (CA), Jan Kalousek (US), Helena Kopalova (US), Blanka Nedvedicka (CZ), Standa Silhan (CZ), Dr. Hana Weingartl (CA) Leader and Dr. Allan Bohn (CA)...

Earlier: K2-2006, Kashgar: Hello EverestNews.com, here is our first note.

Following days of travel by airplane, train and bus from different places (Canada, USA, Taiwan, Czech Republic) all trekking and climbing members met yesterday in Kashgar in Western China.

After solving the expected problems with emergency oxygen, generator, propane stove for the advanced base camp, etc. we are now ready for the next part - two days on jeep through Yark and to Illik and from there five days trek with camels to base camp.

The travel arrangements and support are provided by Mr. Taher Anvar from Kashgar NewLand International travel Service.

The trekking group will help us with carrying gear and supplies to the advanced base camp.

We plan to attempt the North Ridge in light weight expedition style without oxygen.

We would like to thank our sponsors: Keystone Auto Repairs, Pigeon Mountain Industries, Maple Leaf Constructions, Piston Ring, EverestGear, Vertical Adventures, Pembina Chrysler, Metro Propane, The Battery man for their support.

Thanks a lot, Hana

Background: A strong international group of experienced mountain climbers from Canada, USA and Czech Republic plan to attempt to summit K2 via North Ridge from China. This daring project involves travel to one of the most remote places in the world and difficult climb of the world’s most dangerous peak. The approach is a 10 days hike using camels for transport of material. The climbing route is extremely difficult-in rock classification (V) and ice (50-60%). The elevation difference from advanced base camp to the summit is more than 3 vertical km.

Much more on this group in the future!

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