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Jay
with more summits!
This is Jay Reilly from
SummitClimb, calling with the latest news from the Ama Dablam Expedition
2005. We’ve had some success today again with six members on the summit.
Doug, Paul, Stuart, Rick, Andrew and Mor all summitted today around about
11am. Right now, I’ve just spoken to them on the radio and they’re very tired
but they’re back in Camp Three safe and sound, tucked into their tents.
Meanwhile, waiting to go to the summit tomorrow from Camp Three are Phil, Eric
and John. They’ll be heading out tomorrow morning. We’ve had quite good
weather today, the little bit of scrappy weather we’ve had over the last
couple of days seems to have gone. Fingers crossed that it’s a really nice
day for these other guys tomorrow. And that’s all the news so far. We’ll
call later, bye.
Updates
AMA DABLAM: sometimes
spelled: Ama Dablan, or Amadablam, or Amadablan
ASIA'S MOST FAMOUS TECHNICAL
BUT CLIMBABLE ROCK-ICE-SNOW CLIMB
Leader: Daniel Mazur, Ama
Dablam 4 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12
"eight-thousand-metre-peaks", leading together with Jay Reilly, two time Ama
Dablam and two time Pumori summiter
Our expedition offers an
opportunity to climb this challenging semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb with
an experienced team, at an affordable price. We have organized five previous
expeditions to Ama Dablam, so our leaders and staff are very familiar with the
climb. In October 2003, fourteen of our members and 5 Sherpas reached the
summit in all safety. It was our fifth successful ascent of the mountain. We
were fortunate in that the weather was ideal, the team cooperated together
well, our Sherpa climbing staff worked very hard, our equipment functioned
well, the food and hot drinks were well prepared, and the route was in
excellent condition. Please share in our congratulations to all of the team
members and thanks to everyone who helped and supported us, including our
generous sponsors. Nepal is indeed beautiful now and the pleasant weather and
calm conditions in this very peaceful and happy region made our expedition
especially enjoyable.
SOME FACTS ABOUT AMA DABLAM:
Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near to Mt. Everest, in the heart of the
Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous
rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box:
the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or
Charm Box which unmarried Sherpa women used to wear around their necks. The
first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961
when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via
the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the
mountain has received about 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the
SW ridge.
WHY THE SOUTH WEST RIDGE
Here is what one of our
previous top climb leaders (Jonathan Pratt, from Essex, England) had to say
about the route: “The easiest way to the top of Ama Dablam is via the SW
ridge, a semi-technical route, and considered to be the standard route.
Although there are several other routes on the mountain, they are all very
much harder than the SW ridge. The route has been considered to be a safe
route, free from objective danger, such as avalanche. It is a varied and
interesting route with loads of superb climbing - not just a huge snow slog,
unlike other Himalayan climbs. On Ama Dablam, the rock and ice is not
sustained but tends to come in short manageable sections.”
NOTE: Please don’t
underestimate this climb. Although there is only one 6 metre, 20 foot section
of grade British severe, or North America 5.5, (the rest of the climb is known
as "scrambling" or "4th class") there are complicating factors which you may
not find at home on your local crag and definitely not in the rock-gym. These
may include: ice, snow, high-altitude, temperature, weather, exposure, and
other factors.
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here. |
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