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  SummitClimb Cho Oyu Autumn 2005: Update


Update: This is Mark Little of USA dispatching live from Cho Oyu base camp on September 10, 2005.  Elevation at around 4900 meters or 16,000 feet.  After one and a half days in Nylam we finally loaded up the Jeeps and headed for Tingri.  Along the way, we were able to get our first views  of an 8,000 meter peak up on the Tong Long Pass at about 5200 meters.  It was the beautiful sight of Shishapangma.  The whole team stopped to take photos.  We loaded back up and headed on to the Tibetan Plateau.  When we crested onto the Plateau, lo and behold, there she was--Everest, and our main objective, Cho Oyu.  We also got some small glimpses of Makalu.  What an awesome and incredible sight.  So it was a great day.  We were able to see four 8,000 meter peaks.  I wish you were all here to see it.

Soon on to Tingri we go.  After about a four hour drive we finally arrived in Tingri at about 14,150 feet, a very primitive town, but the accommodations were very workable and comfortable.  I think our team and myself believe it or not got our best night’s sleep here.  Today we headed to Chinese Base Camp at 16,100 feet or 4900 meters.  We had 26 or 27 V25 Expedition tents set up, two bathrooms, what a sight.  I think we’re taking over.  I’ve got to tell you SummitClimb’s organization along with Arnold Coster and Phil Crampton are absolutely hands down doing a tremendous job. I mean getting tents, food prepared, free advice with tips, organizing buses, jeeps, restaurants, wow.  I would recommend no other.  Not to forget their talented, outstanding Tibetan staff.  Anyway we have a couple of nights here then off to Intermediate Base Camp.  I wanted to mention that the food in Base Camp is fantastic, also everyone seems to be healthy and doing fine.  I want to say hi to my wife and kids.  I’m doing great, I miss you.  _______ loves Diana.  Signing off from Chinese Base Camp, Mark Little.

Update: Hi EverestNews.com readers

This is Arnold Coster the leader of the SummitClimb Cho Oyu expedition

Today we had a acclimatisation day in Nylam, this is needed otherwise we gain altitude to quick and a lot of members will get sick. Everybody went for a hike today in the surrounding hills of Nylam¡. Today I saw we have a very strong team. Everybody did very well, some members climbed as high as 4900m already.

I like our international team very much, there is always something to talk about.

Tomorrow morning we will go to Tingri, our last town stop before we reach BC. In Tingri we will also meet our staff and Phil again. He was coming from Lhase to arrange some more food. He made a slight change to our climbing staff, because we only want the best. This are our climbing Sherpas now: Tashi Tsering, sirdar, Adin, Luda, Penba, Beba, Tsering,  Dorje, Lobochon. These climbers are the Top of the notch of the Chinese/Tibetean guide school. I am honored to have climbers like this in my team. So this was the last written dispatch, from now on we will call in our dispatches by satellite phone. Arnold

Updates

This is our team:

 

Arnold Coster, the Netherlands- Leader

Phil Crampton, UK -Expedition Manager

Thierry Auberson, Switzerland

Guntis Brands, Switzerland

Edward Buckingham, UK

Ray Butler, UK

Herve Coron, France

Doug Cote, USA

Dominic Faulkner, UK

Tunc Findik, Turkey

Johan Franlelius, Sweden

Gernot Gessinger, Austria

Richard Lindskold, Sweden

Ulrica Lindskold, Sweden

Mark Little, USA

Francois Niering, Switzerland

Maya Sherpa, Nepal

Andrew Sloan, UK

Jon David Stewart, USA

Ben Stuckey, USA

Matt Ward, UK

Nick Williams, UK

 

Introduction to Cho Oyu: 4 September to 10 October

Cho-Oyu has only recently become a popular mountain to climb.  It is now known to be one of the most accessible of the world’s fourteen 8,000 metre mountains.  This is because the ascent to the summit is short and direct, with a few small technical sections, less than 6 metres high, climbed in safety using fixed lines. Additionally, the mountain can be easily reached by four-wheel-drive vehicle, and the trail to Camp 1 at 6,400 metres, is basically a steep walk on talus slopes, often done in hiking boots.  This expedition to Cho-Oyu maximizes our previous successful ascents on the peak itself, plus many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching 8,000 metre summits in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials who regulate the permit system.  We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working leaders, sherpas and staff here at SummitClimb.com

Leader: Arnold Coster, an accomplished and friendly leader who has led successful expeditions to the summit of Cho Oyu and Everest. Arnold's last expedition placed 9 of 11 members and 4 Sherpas on the summit of Cho Oyu; Organizer: Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, Tibet and China Expert, with 10 years experience organizing Himalayan climbs.

Cho Oyu - the "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan - is located at the frontier of Tibet and Nepal. At a height of 8201 meters, it belongs to the Himalayan range, about 30 km west of Everest. It is the sixth highest mountain in the world and was first climbed on October 19th 1954 by the Austrian Herbert Tichy, with Sepp Jochler and Pasang Dava Lama.

"Finally, the peak is reached, the infinite hardships are ended. The last nine hours fighting with the mountain; the time in the death zone above 24,000 foot, the weeks of privations and hardships, even the risk of one's life - is this reward itself really? Yes, certainly! Not because of fame but inner satisfaction: To have found the mountain as friend and have been so near to the sky." Sepp Jochler.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






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