Hello, my name is Guntis, and
I'm sending in a message from the Cho Oyu SummitClimb 2005 Expedition. On
September 27 we had packed our bags and gear from Camp Two at 7,000 meters to
advance to Camp Three at 7,450 meters. We knew it would be a cold and short
night. At midnight in the black and cold we melted snow for our warm drinks
and work began. It took us time, but at 2:00am on September 28 we were ready
to depart, depart for the summit of her, the big Cho Oyu. Dressed as light as
possible, but equipped with down suits, climbing gear, heavy boots and water
bottles we set off at 2am in the dark with flashlights.
obstacle was a rock band that we surpassed after about an hour. It's a
difference climbing in the night without absolute vision. The climb continued
in a monotonous way and oxygen gets scarce by the step. One keeps focusing on
advancing. Climbing remains the only thing in your mind. Looking ahead, one
fortunately looks upwards. Any climber ahead of you looks like a shadow of a
Japanese dangling lantern, the only romantic aspect of the climb so far. It
gets more and more monotonous, darkness, little oxygen, and continued physical
effort. One gets lost in the ardor of advancing. Then, after several hours,
a sudden light becomes visible and improves the mood. Suddenly one recognizes
that the steam on one's footsteps in fact is the light of the flashlight.
Shutting it off is probably the only positive action for several hours. The
sunshine over her plateau's edge is great encouragement towards the light.
Maybe soon. But optimism very soon subsides. The so-called plateau is no
plateau. It's a giant slope on which the summit is not visible. Only
determination can still keep me moving at a lethargic pace.
starts warming and giving energy. Alone in the snow desert comes a surprise,
the view of the Tibetan Lammergeiers. The still-young life at the summit
smiles at 8:30am on the top of Her. I sit down and consume the remaining
energy drink. Happy as I had pictured, I made it, the summit of Cho Oyu! The
descent is another experience, not without effort, but too long to tell. I
long for a shower, a shave, clean clothes without summit smell, and to leave
this Tibetan sea level at 5,600 meters and to get home.
This is our
Coster, the Netherlands- Leader
Crampton, UK -Expedition Manager
Introduction to Cho Oyu: 4
September to 10 October
Cho-Oyu has only recently
become a popular mountain to climb. It is now known to be one of the most
accessible of the world’s fourteen 8,000 metre mountains. This is because the
ascent to the summit is short and direct, with a few small technical sections,
less than 6 metres high, climbed in safety using fixed lines. Additionally,
the mountain can be easily reached by four-wheel-drive vehicle, and the trail
to Camp 1 at 6,400 metres, is basically a steep walk on talus slopes, often
done in hiking boots. This expedition to Cho-Oyu maximizes our previous
successful ascents on the peak itself, plus many years of accumulated wisdom
of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching 8,000 metre summits in all
safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials
who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to the highly
experienced and hard-working leaders, sherpas and staff here at
Leader: Arnold Coster, an accomplished and friendly leader who has led
successful expeditions to the summit of Cho Oyu and Everest. Arnold's last
expedition placed 9 of 11 members and 4 Sherpas on the summit of Cho Oyu;
Organizer: Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, Tibet and China Expert,
with 10 years experience organizing Himalayan climbs.
Cho Oyu - the "Turquoise
Goddess" in Tibetan - is located at the frontier of Tibet and Nepal. At a
height of 8201 meters, it belongs to the Himalayan range, about 30 km west of
Everest. It is the sixth highest mountain in the world and was first climbed
on October 19th 1954 by the Austrian Herbert Tichy, with Sepp Jochler and
Pasang Dava Lama.
"Finally, the peak is
reached, the infinite hardships are ended. The last nine hours fighting with
the mountain; the time in the death zone above 24,000 foot, the weeks of
privations and hardships, even the risk of one's life - is this reward itself
really? Yes, certainly! Not because of fame but inner satisfaction: To have
found the mountain as friend and have been so near to the sky." Sepp Jochler.
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.