Summitclimb Everest Lhotse expedition 2005
Durga down the icefall
Dear EverestNews.com, Report on
Camp 1 Avalanche, 4 may 2005, 5:30 am. Report dated 5 May, 2005, 4:00 pm,
Everest Basecamp. Statement from SummitClimb Llothse expedition member Pierre
Bourdeau, from Montreal, Quebec, Canada.
On 3 May,
Durga Tamang and I walked from 5300 metre high basecamp to camp 1 at 5950
metres. We left basecamp at 6:45 am and walked through the Khumbu Icefall,
arriving at camp 1 at 11:00 am. The purpose of our trip was to gain
acclimatization and to carry supplies and materials up to camp 1. The weather
was very clear and sunny with no wind, the temperature was around 15-20
Camp 1 was
spread over an area of 1/2 kilometre by 1/4 kilometre. It is located in the
bottom of a flattish valley, with rolling terrain on hard packed snow and ice.
There were many camps; 10 to 20, spread out over a large area. The "valley" is
the western cwm. At the head of the valley (east) is the Lhotse face, about
10-15 kilometres distant. At the mouth of the valley (west) is the Khumbu ice
fall, about 1 kilometre from camp 1. The south valley wall is Mount Nuptse, a
very high and imposing 7800 metre peak. The North valley is the West Shoulder
of Everest at around 7600 metres high, a very steep rocky wall, with hanging
glaciers and seracs, and snowfields.
Camp 1 is a
high place and seems kind of sterile with all of that snow, ice, and rock. It
feels unfriendly to humans. Our camp 1 consisted of 7 tents lined up and tied
together in a line from North to South. Durga and I chose to sleep in
adjoining tents (the third and fourth ones in the line from north to south)
because we would each have more room to spread out all of our equipment.
of May 3, as we cooked our dinner and drank our tea, I saw a very beautiful
sunset over Pumori and Cho Oyu, with golden light striking the Lhotse face. It
was a very magnificent twilight, with no wind and peaceful silence. I felt
relaxed and at peace in this beautiful quiet and warm evening.
I awoke 2 or 3 times with a slight headache. Each time, I drank a few sips of
water, and fell back to sleep. The weather remained calm and the temperature
cooled during the night.
5:30 am, I was awakened by the sound of thunder from very high above me on the
west shoulder of Everest, probably from near the top of the shoulder. Then, I
felt the ground beneath me shaking and rumbling as if we were in an
earthquake. I thought to myself "MERDE, I think an avalanche is coming!". I
thought the avalanche would miss me, the thought never occurred to me that I
would be struck by it, as camp 1 seemed so large and safe.
I was in my
sleeping bag laying down on my back with the hood pulled over my face, so I
was in total darkness. Then I heard a loud bang just above my face as a large
piece of avalanche debris, perhaps the size of a football, tore off the top of
I was inside the avalanche, and then I felt a sharp hammer blow to my
forehead, just above my right eye, and I thought I was finished. Instinctively
I rolled into a ball and covered my head with my hands. Everything went black,
and there was a giant roaring like I was stuck inside of a huge wave breaking
on some rocky shoreline. I felt my self being pounded and tumbled by debris as
the avalanche crushed me like a pulp.
Wreckage at camp 1, showing the tent that was drug over,
and which Durga and Pierre spent their first few hours in after the
I was still
in my sleeping bag, now lying on my stomach, and I felt myself being pummeled
by so many pieces of debris. I felt like I was being hit by 1000 punches. As I
was being pounded, I realized I was still alive, but I was sure that the next
big piece of debris that hit me would surely kill me.
pounding stopped, and there was a sudden eerie silence. I thought I was buried
deep under the snow, and I thought to myself: "Now I will surely suffocate to
death". Still curled up with my head down in fear, gingerly, I reached my hand
out of the top of my sleeping bag, and then stretched out my arm, to see how
much snow was on top of me, and I realized that by some miracle, I was not
At the same
time, I heard Durga shouting "Pierre, Pierre". I stuck my head out of my
sleeping bag and tried to see Durga. I was inside a total white-out
snow-blizzard, and I could see nothing but rapidly falling thick white snow.
The snow was falling straight down and sifting down around me, but there was
no wind, it was totally calm as the snow settled. Durga continued to shout my
name, and I realized that he was far away from me, and I was mystified,
because only a few seconds before he had been only 2 metres from me in the
next tent. Now, it seemed he must be 50 metres away.
took about 30 seconds for the snow to settle. As I lay there, it seemed like
it took an eternity. I looked around me while the snow fell, and I discovered
that I was no longer inside my tent. It suddenly occurred to me that I had
been thrown from my tent, whereas when I first heard Durga calling my name, I
assumed he had been tossed away from his tent. Now I knew that while felt like
I was being hit by 1000 punches, the avalanche must have drug me out of my
tent and across camp 1.
finally settled, and in the distance I saw Durga kneeling with his hands at
his side, shouting my name, and looking around, trying to see me. He was
kneeling in the wreckage of what used to be his tent. This sighting confirmed
that I was now 100 metres away from the previous site of our camp 1. I still
found it hard to believe I had been ejected from the tent and thrown this far.
kneeling in what used to be a sturdy brand new Ozark 4 season mountain tent,
and was now a pile of yellow nylon about 4 centimetres high with broken poles
sticking out of it. I looked around, and strewn haphazardly all over camp 1
were pieces of clothing, food, climbing equipment, stoves, mattresses, and all
the contents of the camp spread out all over the snow.
down at myself and saw that I was already halfway out of my sleeping bag, so I
slid out the rest of the way, and then tried to stand up. My sleeping bag was
lying on the ground filled with snow, so I shook it out and started to walk
back to where Durga was kneeling, dragging my sleeping bag. I was in my
underwear and socks. It was 5h30 in the morning, the sun was not yet up, but
there was no wind. My right foot was painful but I seemed to be able to walk.
As I walked
toward Durga, I watched him kneeling there, calling my name and scanning the
camp for me. For some reason he never looked toward me, perhaps not believing
I could have been thrown so far from the tent in such an unexpected direction.
When I was
5 metres away, he finally recognized me and exclaimed his surprise and seemed
standing there in my underwear and socks, covered in snow. I started to
freeze. I found a piece of a tent, layed it beside Durga, threw my sleeping
bag on top of it, and crawled inside. I was so cold, I was shaking like a
leaf, and my teeth were chattering.
15 minutes, a member of another expedition arrived. His camp had amazingly not
been touched. He looked like he was in shock when he saw us in our
pitiful condition. He mumbled something, apparently not speaking much English,
and ran away immediately. In 15 more minutes, he came back with two other
people, one of whom was a doctor who spoke English.
immediately begged the doctor to call basecamp on his walkie-talkie radio,
because ours was nowhere to be found, apparently having been blown away in the
avalanche. He found a tent from another expedition not too badly damaged, but
not connected to its guylines. He drug the tent over, found some mattresses,
and helped Durga and me inside, to try to stay warmer. Our sleeping bags were
covered with a fine layer of powder snow inside and out, so it was almost
futile. We lay in our sleeping bags and shivered for hours. We were so cold we
could not find the energy to speak.
that had been helping us left, and we never saw them again.
around 9:00 am, the sun started to hit us, and we began to warm up. 4 sherpas
arrived from somewhere. They spoke to Durga, and then went around the camp
picking up our clothing, boots, and climbing equipment. Durga could not move,
he pointed at his back, and stayed in the sleeping bag, where he could stay
warm. I was able to dress myself with clothing found by the Sherpas.
Durg in the basecamp hospital immediately after being
stretchered-sledded down to basecamp.
I stood up,
put on my boots, and walked around the camp. What I saw looked like the
aftermath of a bomb blast or some kind of high-altitude rubbish dump, with
wrecked tents and food and clothing and equipment spread across what seemed to
be the entire valley.
A group of
westerners arrived. They had a radio and called basecamp and began to organize
a rescue. They spoke to Durga and tried to assess his injuries. They told us a
lot of people were coming up from basecamp and down from camp 2 to help us.
As I was
walking around the camp, 200 metres away, I saw a group of guys from New
York, who were on our climbing permit, but not part of our climbing team.
They were sitting and walking around a group of totally smashed tents from
another expedition. They only had one tent, so apparently they had put theirs
up next to another group’s tents. Everything over there was totally
kept coming up to me, and asking me if I needed help, offering me tea and
food. They were very helpful. A doctor arrived and checked Durga, and said he
needed to be carried out on a stretcher. I had a badly bruised foot and hand,
and bruises all over my body, but seemed to be able to function, sort of.
from our expedition began to arrive. Lakpa Kongle Sherpa was first, and he
helped me find my missing crampons, and gave me more food and tea.
rescuers made Durga a priority, and carried and slid in a kind of
stretcher-sled with a forceful and large rescue team made up of many Sherpas
and climbers from many expeditions. I don’t think his back is broken because
they dropped and jostled him so many times during the rescue and he can still
move around in his hospital bed and he can wigglke his fingers and toes, no
Kripa bindu Jason Barilla, wearing his helmet with the
back smashed off of it
I felt good
enough to go down, and began to descend with Lakpa Kongle Sherpa, following
the New York guys on our permit. We were all going down in a kind of big group
with a lot of Sherpas.
It was hard
to descend and I walked very slowly, because of the pain in my foot. Lakpa
Kongle Sherpa helped me the whole way, like I was some kind of old lady.
I began to
see some of the leaders of our expedition, like Shane, Max, Mark, Jason, and
others. I also saw our Sherpas like Shera, Galu, Pemba, Tenji, Lakpa Garmu,
Phuri, and others. For me, it felt like I was fleeing a burning building, and
these familiar firemen were running in to try and put out the fire as I ran
four hours of walking down (it normally takes an hour or two), I stepped off
of the ice in basecamp, just after Durga was slid off in his stretcher, and
was escorted by other members of my expedition to the basecamp health clinic.
The doctors looked me over and said that I should have an x-ray. The nearest
x-ray machine is in Kathmandu, so I plan to fly there tomorrow on a helicopter
from basecamp, with Durga, who also needs x-rays, and the guys from New York,
who have a variety of injuries and need
Kripa bindu Jason Barilla showing his
face immediately after the avalanche
I wish to
thank all of those kind and caring people who rescued and helped us through
this horrible day. I think I might not be alive without them.
amazing these people are alive, and especially that they are not more
seriously injured. We are deeply grateful to all of those who helped. What
wonderful people we are blessed with in sharing our climb of Mt. Lhotse and
Everest. Thank you very much, from all of us at SummitClimb.com
Below please find the
team rosters for the Everest and Lhotse expeditions and the Everest basecamp
FAMILY NAME, First Name, country
of origin, Trip Name, leader
MR. CLARKE, Clay, USA, Everest
MR. COSTER, Arnold, Netherlands,
MR. FRANKELIUS, Johan, Sweden,
MR. MAZUR, Daniel, England, and
USA, Everest, leader
MR. O'BRIEN (CHRIS), USA,
MR. O'BRIEN (MIKE), USA, Everest
MR. VOIGT, Jens, Germany,
MR. BACH, James Anugata, USA,
MR. BARILLA, Jason, Kripabindu,
MR. BARLOW, George, USA, Lhotse
MR. BOURDEAU, Pierre, Canada,
MR. BROILI, Ben, USA, Lhotse
MR. EDMONDS, Shane, USA, Lhotse,
MR. FALAHEY, Blair, Australia,
MR. GARCIA, Joao, Portugal,
MR. GAUTHIER, Jowan,
MR. HAGGE, Malte, Australia,
MR. KAUSCH, Max, Argentina,
MR. MAZUR, Daniel, England and
USA, Lhotse, leader
MR. MERWIN, Mark, USA, Lhotse,
MR. MEYRING, Gary, USA, Lhotse
MR. SANTOS, Helder, Portugal,
MR. THOMAS (JASON), USA, Lhotse,
MR. THOMAS (WILLIAM), USA,
MR. THURLEY, Kay, Germany,
MR. WIGDERSON, Eyal, Israel,
MR. AMBROSIUS, Kelly, USA,
MS. CARDINAL, France, Canada,
MR. DELISANTI, Rip, USA,
MR. EMERY, Tom, USA, Basecamp
MS. MOORE, Melissa, South
Africa, Basecamp Trek
MS. NEORR, Karen, USA, Basecamp
MS. OLSEN, Colleen, USA,
MS. ROBINSON, Jenni, USA,
MS. ROTHENBERG, Maja, Germany,
MR. SCHAEFFER, Kelly, USA,
MR. STROHMAYER, Paul, USA,
MS. TE HENNEPE, Elselien,
Netherlands, Basecamp trek, leader
MR. TONOZZI, Pat, USA, Basecamp
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.