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  SummitClimb Mt. Everest / Lhotse 2006 expedition: Arnold reports in...


Update 5/5/2006: This is Arnold Coster, leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2006.  Yesterday all members and Sherpas came down from Camp 2 to rest in Base Camp.  While Steve was coming down from Camp 2 he suffered severe frostbite in three of the eight fingers.  Unfortunately this means he had to get down to a lower elevation to recover from this issue.  Luckily a helicopter flew in to Base Camp this morning so Steve could get a lift to Katmandu to recover from his injuries.  Also Pete was still struggling with his chest infection, so he also decided to fly back to Katmandu today.  He’s planning to come back in a week, even though his summit chances are greatly reduced, but he still wants to acclimatize.  So we hope to see him again when he comes to Base Camp. 

All other members, Ron, Fabrice, Tunc,  Mali and Arnold  are in Base Camp now and are doing fine.  Some friends fell out and a couple stayed.   We are very sad that Steve has to leave our expedition because of his injuries.  Fortunately he will recover one hundred percent from his injury in Katmandu, and he will have no permanent damage with his hands.  So that’s it for now.  When there’s more news you will hear it.  Bye bye.

This are our team members:

 

Everest team:

Peter Morley, UK

Fabrice Imparato, French

Ron Oliver, USA

Mast Mali, India

Arnold Coster, Dutch

 

Lhotse team:

Tunc Findik, Turkish

Steve Hodges, USA

 

Staff team:

Neer Karji Tamang, basecamp manager

Jay Bahadhur, Cook

Temba Sherpa, Assistant cook

Lakpa Gormu Sherpa, Cook boy and high altitude cook

Phuri Sherpa, climbing Sherpa

Tenji Sherpa, climbing Sherpa

Furwa Jangbu Sherpa, climbing Sherpa

Maya Sherpa, climbing Sherpa

Dawa Tsering Sherpa, personal Sherpa

Pasang Galu Sherpa, personal Sherpa

Datenji Sherpa, personal Sherpa

 

In the next few days all our members will arrive in Kathmandu, so stay tuned for the next dispatch!

 

Updates

Background below

From left to right: Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.

Daniel Mazur on the summit of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and Kangchenjunga in the Background. (Photo: Roman Giutashvili)

The route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953

Leader: Daniel Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks".

 

Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma).A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600 metres (Dan Mazur). 

Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)  

Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.

This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system.  We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport.   You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense.  During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,  and porters.  If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world.

              

Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner,  prepared by our skilled cooks.  

          

Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur) Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).

Through the following weeks, they will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. Take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the world's most classic mountain. 

            

Looking up at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary Step  (DL Mazur) . 

The view from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others  (DL Mazur) .

SUGGESTED DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB

1. 4 April, Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).  Hotel.
2. 5 April In Kathmandu; visit temples; city tour; shopping.  Hotel.
3. 6 April Fly to Lukla (2860m).  Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4. 7 April Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  Teahouse or camping.
5. 8 April Rest and acclimatization in Namche.  Teahouse or camping.
6. 9 April Walk to Pangboche (3757m).  Teahouse or camping.
7. 10 April Walk to Pheriche (4250m).  Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8. 11 April Walk to Lobuche (4930m).  Teahouse or camping.
9. 12 April Rest in Lobuche.
10. 13 April Walk to basecamp (5300m).
11. 14 April Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
12. 15 April Climb partway to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
13. 16 April Rest in basecamp.
14. 17 April Climb to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
15. 18 April Rest in basecamp.
16. 19 April Climb to Camp 1, sleep there.
17. 20 April Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres, return  to camp 1, sleep there.
18. 21 April Return to basecamp.
19. 22 April Rest in basecamp.
20. 23 April Rest in basecamp.
21. 24 April Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
22. 25 April Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
23. 26 April Rest in camp 2.
24. 27 April Explore route to Camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
25. 28 April Return to basecamp.
26. 29 April Rest in basecamp.
27. 30 April Rest in basecamp.
28. 1 May Rest in basecamp.
29. 2 May Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
30. 3 May Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
31. 4 May Rest in camp 2.
32. 5 May Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there.
33. 6 May Explore route to camp 4 at 8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there.
34. 7 May Return to basecamp.
35. 8 May Rest in basecamp.
36. 9 May Rest in basecamp.
37. 10 May Rest in basecamp.
38. 11 May Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
39. 12 May Rest in camp 2.
40. 13 May Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
41. 14 May Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
42. 15 May Attempt summit. Return to camp 4.
43. 16 May Return to camp 2, sleep there.
44. 17 May Return to basecamp.
45. 18 May Rest in basecamp.
46. 19 May Rest in basecamp.
47. 20 May Rest in basecamp.
48. 21 May Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
49. 22 May Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
50. 23 May Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
51. 24 May Attempt summit.
52. 25 May Attempt summit.
53. 26 May Return to camp 2.
54. 27 May Pack up camp 2.
55. 28 May Return to basecamp.
56. 29 May Pack up basecamp.
57. 30 May Pack up basecamp.
58. 31 May Trek down to Pheriche. Camp.
59. 1 June Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
60. 2 June Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
61. 3 June Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
62. 4 June Flight to Kathmandu.  Hotel.
63. 5 June Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.  Hotel.
64. 6 June Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!

    

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Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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