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Update 05/22/2006: This is Arnold
calling from Camp 3 at 7,200 meters, for the the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse
Expedition. Today Pete, the Sherpas and me climbed to Camp 3 at 7,200 meters
to stay here for the night to go on to the South Col the next day. On the
bottom of the Lhotse Face at one o'clock we met Dawa Sherpa, who is with our
team on the Tibet side. He's doing a record attempt to cross Everest from
Chinese Base Camp to the Nepal Base Camp in the short possible time. He had a
bit of bad luck, he broke a crampon on the way down. But fortunately, our
Tenji was also on his way down together with Mr. Mali, so Tenji gave him one
of his crampons so Dawa could go on as fast as possible. Tenji descends into
Everest on one crampon.
I just got the message-Dawa Sherpa
arrived in Base Camp at five o'clock. That is bloody fast. I have no official
times here but according to my knowledge it took him only 20 hours to start in
Chinese Base Camp, cross over the summit of Everest, and finish in Nepal Base
Camp. How proud of him we are! We want to summit at the 24th-- You will all
notice we will go a little slower. So you will hear from us again tomorrow
when we arrive in the South Col. Bye bye.
This are
our team members:
Everest
team:
Peter
Morley, UK
Fabrice
Imparato, French
Ron Oliver,
USA
Mast Mali,
India
Arnold
Coster, Dutch
Lhotse
team:
Tunc
Findik, Turkish
Steve
Hodges, USA
Staff team:
Neer Karji
Tamang, basecamp manager
Jay
Bahadhur, Cook
Temba
Sherpa, Assistant cook
Lakpa Gormu
Sherpa, Cook boy and high altitude cook
Phuri
Sherpa, climbing Sherpa
Tenji
Sherpa, climbing Sherpa
Furwa
Jangbu Sherpa, climbing Sherpa
Maya
Sherpa, climbing Sherpa
Dawa Tsering Sherpa, personal Sherpa
Pasang Galu
Sherpa, personal Sherpa
Datenji
Sherpa, personal Sherpa
In the next
few days all our members will arrive in Kathmandu, so stay tuned for the next
dispatch!
Updates
Background below
From left to right: Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.
Daniel Mazur on the summit of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side.
Don't forget to take off YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the
summit. Makalu and Kangchenjunga in the Background. (Photo: Roman Giutashvili)
The
route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953
Leader: Daniel Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12
"eight-thousand-metre-peaks".
Daniel Mazur, in Everest
basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin
at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma).A meeting on the roof of our
hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our
trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).
On the Hillary Step (DL
Mazur).
Jon Pratt crossing a ladder
in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600 metres (Dan Mazur).
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Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)
Everest is perhaps the
most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route
first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen
feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two
potential summit attempts.
This expedition to
Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a
strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000
metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials
who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to the highly
experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.
Detailed Description
The trip begins in the
ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet
your flight at Tribhuvan airport. You stay in a comfortable, simple,
clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and
Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense. During our free day in
Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for
trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors
of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as
the ancient city of Patan.
Early the following
morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,
and porters. If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend
the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition
includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world.
Trekking in the Khumbu
valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under
rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).
We will continue our trek
up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we
rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a
night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day.
Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting,
organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb.
We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall,
followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first
glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty
dinner, prepared by our skilled cooks.
Diane in the icefall (Dan
Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan
Mazur) Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face
at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)
Climbing at 8400 metres
above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).
Through the following
weeks, they will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route,
establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization
level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom
of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is
on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col,
is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. Take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best
chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the
summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route
to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree
angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed
rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often
placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and
the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the
world's most classic mountain.
Looking up at the summit
from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face.
Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary Step (DL Mazur) .
The view from the summit,
looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others (DL Mazur)
. |
SUGGESTED DAY-BY-DAY
ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB
|
1. |
4 April, |
Arrive Kathmandu (1,300
meters). Hotel. |
|
2. |
5 April |
In Kathmandu; visit temples;
city tour; shopping. Hotel. |
|
3. |
6 April |
Fly to Lukla (2860m). Walk
to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping. |
|
4. |
7 April |
Walk to Namche Bazaar
(3446m). Teahouse or camping. |
|
5. |
8 April |
Rest and acclimatization in
Namche. Teahouse or camping. |
|
6. |
9 April |
Walk to Pangboche (3757m).
Teahouse or camping. |
|
7. |
10 April |
Walk to Pheriche (4250m).
Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping. |
|
8. |
11 April |
Walk to Lobuche (4930m).
Teahouse or camping. |
|
9. |
12 April |
Rest in Lobuche. |
|
10. |
13 April |
Walk to basecamp (5300m). |
|
11. |
14 April |
Rest, organization, and
training day in basecamp. |
|
12. |
15 April |
Climb partway to camp 1 at
5800 metres. Return to basecamp. |
|
13. |
16 April |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
14. |
17 April |
Climb to camp 1 at 5800
metres. Return to basecamp. |
|
15. |
18 April |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
16. |
19 April |
Climb to Camp 1, sleep
there. |
|
17. |
20 April |
Walk to camp 2 at 6200
metres, return to camp 1, sleep there. |
|
18. |
21 April |
Return to basecamp. |
|
19. |
22 April |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
20. |
23 April |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
21. |
24 April |
Walk to camp 1, sleep there. |
|
22. |
25 April |
Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there. |
|
23. |
26 April |
Rest in camp 2. |
|
24. |
27 April |
Explore route to Camp 3
(7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
25. |
28 April |
Return to basecamp. |
|
26. |
29 April |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
27. |
30 April |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
28. |
1 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
29. |
2 May |
Walk to camp 1, sleep there. |
|
30. |
3 May |
Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there. |
|
31. |
4 May |
Rest in camp 2. |
|
32. |
5 May |
Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there. |
|
33. |
6 May |
Explore route to camp 4 at
8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there. |
|
34. |
7 May |
Return to basecamp. |
|
35. |
8 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
36. |
9 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
37. |
10 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
38. |
11 May |
Walk to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
39. |
12 May |
Rest in camp 2. |
|
40. |
13 May |
Walk to camp 3, sleep there. |
|
41. |
14 May |
Walk to camp 4, sleep there. |
|
42. |
15 May |
Attempt summit. Return to
camp 4. |
|
43. |
16 May |
Return to camp 2, sleep
there. |
|
44. |
17 May |
Return to basecamp. |
|
45. |
18 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
46. |
19 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
47. |
20 May |
Rest in basecamp. |
|
48. |
21 May |
Walk to camp 2, sleep there. |
|
49. |
22 May |
Walk to camp 3, sleep there. |
|
50. |
23 May |
Walk to camp 4, sleep there. |
|
51. |
24 May |
Attempt summit. |
|
52. |
25 May |
Attempt summit. |
|
53. |
26 May |
Return to camp 2. |
|
54. |
27 May |
Pack up camp 2. |
|
55. |
28 May |
Return to basecamp. |
|
56. |
29 May |
Pack up basecamp. |
|
57. |
30 May |
Pack up basecamp. |
|
58. |
31 May |
Trek down to Pheriche. Camp. |
|
59. |
1 June |
Trek down to Pangboche.
Teahouse or camping. |
|
60. |
2 June |
Trek to Namche, Teahouse or
camping. |
|
61. |
3 June |
Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or
camping. |
|
62. |
4 June |
Flight to Kathmandu. Hotel. |
|
63. |
5 June |
Extra day in Kathmandu, in
case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping. Hotel. |
|
64. |
6 June |
Fly Home. Thanks for joining
our expedition! |
|
 |
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See more here. |
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