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  SummitClimb Leader In Training


Update 3/11/2005: Hi again! Philip Ling here. One thing I learned today is that a good leader does not necessarily always lead the group from the front. In fact, under certain circumstances, a good leader may more often than not spend more time at the back of the group or within the group than they do at the front. (An exception, for example, would be while travelling through avalanche prone terrain). A good leader realises and understands that by occassionally being at the back of the group he/she is able to focus more on the slower/weaker members, and get a better perspective of what is happenning within the group as a whole. The leader has to continuously monitor the progress of all members. How are they moving? Are they feeling well? Do they have a headache? Are they experiencing any signs and symptoms of AMS, HAPE or HACE?

Only by observing the members closely and talking with them personally can the leader make the correct decisions regarding the members health and well being.

The leader has to put his own ambitions aside to ensure that the number one priority is the health and welfare of all members. After all, the role of the leader is not to get himself/herself to the summit, but to get the expedition members to the summit, and most importantly of all, to bring them safely back down afterwards. Till next time, regards, Philip Ling.

Hey Mark Merwin here.  Today was huge.  I had my first views of Everest, Nupste, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.  It was so awesome.  It's hard to believe that I'm here --right at the core of it all.  It's kind of like stepping onto the field of Yankee Stadium or something.  I'm quickly learning just how much effort is involved in being a leader.  In addition to looking after yourself, you need to make sure that expedition members are staying healthy and having a good time.  We've also been going to meetings with various government agencies to secure permits and such.  These meetings are actually quite boring, but it is cool to see how some of the "behind the scenes" parts of an expedition work.  Also we had some great tea at our SPCC meeting in Namche Bazaar while getting our trash permit.

Previous Update

Hello Everybody, This is Elselien writing from the little town of Phakding in the Khumbu Valley.

The last few days have been really busy for all the leaders (in training) to prepare for this morning, the take off from Tribhuvan domestic airport to Lukla airport in the foothills of the Himalaya.

Since the members started arriving since last Sunday, the leaders in training have mostly been busy looking after them, their equipment (or lack of), show them around Kathmandu and answer all their questions. We started by taking a good look at everybody's gear. On Pumori, which is a 7000m and very cold mountain, it is essential that members have sufficient equipment.

First Jay showed us what good gear for Pumori is and then we ( Kirk, Mark, Tunch, Philip and myself) went through it all with the 22 members. We especially looked at their boots, down clothing, glacier sunglasses, high altitude sleeping bag and warm mitts. Some or almost all members needed some additional gear and so the next day was spent on shopping, shopping and more shopping. In the end everybody got what they needed.

By that time the medication that we ordered after going through the medical boxes arrived and we distributed these over 2 large expedition kits and one trekking kit, while Jay tested our knowledge of all the different medications, uses and dosages. Very educational.

This morning we were lucky enough to depart for Lukla as scheduled. The 36 member duffelbags, the hundreds of kilo's of food, the medical box, the medical oxygen and the gamov bag all had to go through the xray, then had to be weighed piece by piece and loaded on trolleys to go to the three Twin Otters we would be flying with. After an exiting and bumpy flight with great few of the mountains Numbur and Gauri Shankar we all went to the Namaste lodge in Lukla, where we had to make sure all the bags had arrived before anybody would take of to Phakding. Around noon eveybody had enjoyed a treehouse lunch, seen their bags arriving and thus able to hit the trail for a three hour downhill walk to the Sunrise Lodge.

Here we just had a lovely dinner made by the expeditions, Nepali kitchen staff and feel tired after our first Kumbhu hike, but above all happy to be on the trail to Everest Basecamp and Pumori!

This leader in training course seems to work well so far and certainly is very educational and fun to be part of. We'll keep you informed. Elselien te Hennepe.

Previous Update

Dear Everest News Readers, Hi to all from leaders in training! We are constantly very busy with many tasks and training these days.. What we did was an introduction to Nepalese culture and way of life in the form of talking to our Nepalese friends. This was a very interesting session. Our Trekking Agent, Murari has a cousin called Deha. We were able to talk to him and ask him many questions about Nepali way of life. Things like the social structure, tribes, behaviour, dating.... all manner of topics! This was a great time for us to learn about the dos and don'ts and how to treat the Nepalese with respect. Also we dwelled on the general safety procedures for the group on the trek and on the mountain.

The day normally begins for our compact group with a short walk to Kathmandu's important cultural places, followed by breakfast and coffee break. We explored the back alleys and streets around the local district of Asan today. We were very impressed at our ability to navigate the dark alleys and even discovered a new way into Durbar Square....without having to pay!! The mid morning and mid afternoon would involve training sessions of various subjects like ropework, moving on fixed lines. Two of our Sherpas - Shera and Tenzing - fixed ropes for us to practice on. They went up a ladder, along a balcony, down a doorway, along the roof, down some stairs, up some stairs and finally down another doorway! Good fun!!

We then checked medical equipment and it's usage. There's a lot to learn, as there are many drugs we haven't used before. We've made a list of more medicines we need to buy to restock the kits. One of our jobs tomorrow.

And, finally, as some of the members have already arrived, our next job is to make sure they have the right gear for the trek and the climb.

So, until tomorrow all the best from the leaders in training. Tunc Findik, Kirk Morley, Philip Ling, Mark Merwin, and Elselien Te Hennepe.

Previous Update

Summitclimb.com has started a new Leader in Training Program. This program is the first of it's type in the world and is designed to give existing Outdoor Leaders and Mountain Guides an opportunity to be trained in the elite world of High Altitude Mountain Guiding. The training program lasts for the duration of the expedition. For more information, please visit www.leaderintraining.com

We have 5 Trainee Leaders on Summitclimb's Pumori Expedition this season. Please follow these dispatches as the Trainees give their views and information on their training, themselves, and the expedition overall. It should make interesting reading! Sort of like a high altitude "Big Brother!"

Leader in Training - Dispatch 1

My name is Philip Ling, from Sydney Australia and St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria. For the past 13 years I have worked as a ski instructor and guide in the Kitzbuheler Alps and St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria. Having successfully guided guests down some of the most challenging off-piste ski terrain in Europe, I have decided to see how the knowledge and skills of ice, snow and the alpine environment I have gained can be put to good use taking climbing expedition members to some of the highest places on earth.

During this unique high-altitude expedition mountaineering training program I will be learning many things that can help me achieve this goal. Through the Summitclimb 'Leader in training' Program under the leadership of Dan Mazur and Jay Reilly I am learning all the important techniques that lead to a successful and safe expedition, from pre-expedition logistics and planning to a successful summit and most importantly, a safe return home.

Regards, Philip Ling.

Hi there, my name is Tunc Findik and I am from Turkey! I have climbed extensively  all over the world and now I am here for Daniel's leaders in training program. I think this is an important opportunity to enter the arena of international high altitude guiding. This is not only about climbing abilities or technical grades but of  moving together with other people, getting to know them, motivate them and help reach them their targets. In my opinion success lies in getting the most enjoyment out of mountains and cultures, and in sharing this with other people. We, as the members of this program, are here to ensure this for all. Cheers! Tunc

G'day every one , I'm Kirk Morley, I'm also from Australia, Cairns to be exact. I've just recently completed a course in Outdoor recreation certificate IV with the intentions of starting a new career (I'm a Chef by trade) and can think of no better way of doing this then becoming a guide in training and getting the experience with people of different cultures and experiences on an expedition of this magnitude. all the best. Kirk 

Hi!  My name is Mark Merwin.  I'm an American from Olympia, Washington.  I've climbed rock, snow, and ice in United States, Alaska, and the Andes.  In the past I have worked various jobs, such as a biologist in rainforests of Central America, a construction worker in Hawaii, and ski tech in the Sierras.  Like Kirk, I'm ready for a career change and I'd like to work as a mountaineering guide too.  I'm stoked to have the opportunity to join a Himalayan expedition and experience Nepalese culture. Cheers!

Hello Everybody, this is Elselien te Hennepe writing. I'm a 30 year old social worker from the Netherlands an have been going to Nepal with Daniel Mazur for three years now. I've really enjoyed those trips and started to lead the Everest Basecamp trek last October. Now I'm back again and this time not only to lead the Everest trek, but also to be a leader in training on Pumori! Last October Isaw the leaders in training in action on Ama Dablam (which I was lucky to summit) and am really excited to be one on Pumori now.

I think Daniel, Jay and the leaders in training program provide an unique opportunity in the high altitude climbing world and I feel privileged to be part of that. 

We've been doing a lot of preparations the last few days and things are only starting today when Murari is going to pick up the first few members from the airport.

Loads of things to do the next few days, so we'll keep you informed!

Cheers for now from Elselien.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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