Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  SummitClimb Pumori 2005: Update


This is Philip Ling with news from the International Summitclimb Pumori Expedition 2005.

We apologize for the delay in the recent dispatches however all leaders and members have been high on the mountain in preparation for the summit push. Dan has telephoned several dispatches in during the hiatus.

In the latest dispatch, Dispatch 10, we mentioned how the expedition had been divided into 3 groups in preparation for the push to the summit. However since then, it was decided to form two groups instead.

Members Rex, Greg, Roland, Frasier and John recently retired from their attempts to climb Pumori due to various reasons, and they will be missed.

The first group is led by Dan Mazur and Mark Merwin, climbing with members Liga, Alex, Roy, and Tunc.

The second group is led by Jay Reilly, Philip Ling, Kirk Morley and Elselien Te Hennepe, climbing with members Matt, Edwin, Reinhold, Karlis and Viesters.

As outlined in the previous dispatch, the first priority was to ensure that all leaders and members had met the minimum requirement of at least one night spent at Camp 1 (6100m) to aid acclimatisation, then returned to either Base Camp (5400m) or Advanced Base Camp (5800m) for a rest before heading for the summit. This they did, and then the summit push was on!

The first group departed ABC on March 22 and spent the night at Camp 1, before moving on to Camp 2 for the night, from here they would head for the summit early the next morning (March 24). Roy decided to return to Camp 1 shortly after setting out.

The second group departed ABC on March 24 and spent the night at Camp 1. They intended to head for Camp 2 on March 24 in preparation for a push for the summit March 25. However early on the morning of March 24 a freak storm brought heavy wind and snow to Camp 1, along with temperatures of -42 degrees Celsius! With conditions now simply too dangerous to climb to Camp 2, along with the time constraints, the decision was made to return to Base Camp.

Meanwhile, the first group was stuck in Camp 2 during the same storm. With nowhere to go, they decided to stay and try and ride it out. Miraculously, and beyond everyone's expectations, the storm cleared leaving the window open for a summit attempt on March 25.

More will be told about summit day in a separate dispatch.

Editorial Note: It is unclear if Phil knew of the deaths of Alex Chen and Phurba Tamang when he filed the above dispatch. We have been waiting for the follow up dispatch...

There has only been 2 accidents where climbers have died on Pumori since 1993 until this accident. In 1997 3 climbers died in a fall, and in 2001 5 Spanish climbers died in an avalanche.

to Summarize:  The Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation reports that Alex Chen and Phurba Tamang of the International Pumori Expedition 2005 (I) Team died on crevasse by slipped down from about 100 meter below the summit while descending from the summit of the Mt. Pumori on 25th March 2005 at 3:00 pm.

Summiters included: Alex and Phurba Tamang

Summiters also include  25th March 2005

1.    Mr. Daniel Lee Mazur, (44 yrs.) Leader, USA. 

2.    Ms. Liga Hartmane (28 yrs.) Member, Lativia.

3.    Mr. Jangbu Sherpa, (37 yrs.), High Altitude Worker, Patale - 4, Okhaldhunga.

4.    Mr. Mark  Merwin,  (28 yrs), Member, USA.

5.    Mr. Tunc Findik, (33 yrs.), Member, Turkey

6.    Mr. Tenji Sherpa, (22 yrs), High Altitude Worker, Patale- 4, Okhaldhunga.

7.    Mr. Phuri Sherpa, (36 yrs.) High Altitude Worker, Patale- 4, Okhaldhunga.

Our prayers are with the families; this is a dangerous sport where people die every year, but that does not make it easier for those who lose loved ones.

Dispatches

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 

 

Send email to  • Copyright© 1998-2012  EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it