8000 Meter Peaks

Everest
K2
Kangchenjunga
Lhotse
Makalu
Cho Oyu
Dhaulagiri
Manaslu
Nanga Parbat
Annapurna
Gasherbrum
Broad Peak
Shishapangma
Pakistan

Seven Summits

Everest
Aconcagua
Denali
Kilimanjaro
Elbrus
Vinson Massif
Carstensz Pyramid
Mount Kosciusko

Without our sponsors, you wouldn't see this site, please visit our sponsors. 

imax.gif (11898 bytes)  

 Ashraf Aman Q&A

Ashraf Aman (ATP's Managing Director) has the privilege of being the first Pakistani to climb K2 (the second highest peak in the world) besides having almost 30 years of solo experience in the field of tourism. In recognition of his devoted services for promotion of Mountaineering and Trekking, he was awarded "Pride of Performance" by the President of Pakistan apart from a number of awards from the International community. Recently he has been awarded a memorable award namely "UND DEI CENTO" (one in hundred) in a big festival held in Milan Italy.

This is his Q&A !

Ashraf Aman

Question: Dear Mr. Ashraf Aman, What areas will be open for  trekking/mountaineering next season do you think? 

Mr. Ashraf Aman: There are no change of rules and regulations. Previously open areas are still open and all restricted areas still need permits. 

Question: I would like to explore the HinduKush/Tirich Mir area, is it a safe there? Thanks a lot for all arrangements for my Baltoro-Gondogoro La circuit trek summer 2000, and say hello to all your staff (Naik Nam Karim et al. ) from me.  Best regards Olle Paulson, Sweden 

Mr. Ashraf Aman: Dear Olle, we are pleased to know that you are interested Hindu Kush Area. Please note that Hindu Kush and Chitral area is safe for all kind of tourist traffic. You can freely visit though out the region without any security risk. Best regards from my staff too - Ashraf

Question: I would like to thank for your support of the United States. You and yours are in our prayers. On Climbing, have you ever attempt Mt. Everest if not would you like to? 

Mr. Ashraf Aman: I have been to Base camp of Mount Everest Tibet side and Nepal side, every mountaineer want to climb Highest Peak, but need money to climb, Everest is very expensive comparatively to K-2. Now I am too old to climb Everest and I have not been practicing for last many years. I think I cannot climb Everest now, it's a DREAM PEAK.

Question: Can you compare climbing K2 when you reached the Summit in 1977 to today's climbing of K2.

Mr. Ashraf Aman: The days in 1977, we didn't have plastic boots, we had only leather shoes and heavy high altitude cloth, now climbing is very easy due to modern equipment and communication helicopter facilities. I had frost bite. There was no helicopter to rescue. I had to walk out up to Dasso. Every day my doctor had to Bandage my toes, I was walking by help of Ski Poles.

Question: Can you tell us about some of your K2 expeditions you or your company have been involved with and the people you have met.

Mr. Ashraf Aman: Below is short list of the successful climbers on K-2 with whom my company and myself have been involved. The detailed list with un-successful expeditions is too long. 

S. N Name Nationality
01 C. Buhler American
02 Sebastian de la Cruz Argentinean
03 Kurt Diemberger Austrian
04 Andrew Lock Australian
05 Juanito Oiarzabal Basque
06 Alberto Inurrategui Basque
07 Felix Inurrategui Basque
08 Enrique de Pablo Basque
09 Jose Carlos Tamayo Basque
10 Juanjo San Sebastian Basque
11 Atxo Apellaniz Basque
12 Alan Hinkes British
13 Waldemar Niclevicz Brazil
14 Juan Tomas Gutierrez Catalan
15 Cristian Garcia-Huidabro Chilean
16 Misael Alvial Chilean
17 Michael Purcell Chilean
18 Waldo Farias Chilean
19 Jean Christophe Lafaille French
20 Peter Mezger German
21 Salvatore Panzeri Italian
22 Giulio Maggioni Italian
23 Marco Bianchi Italian
24 Christian Kuntner Italian
25 Hans Kammerlander Italian
26 Marco Commandano Italian
27 Shoji Nakamura Japanese
28 Tsuneoh Shigehiro Japanese
29 Takeyoshi Takatsuka Japanese
30 Mitsuo Hiroshima Japanese
31 Masahide Onodera Japanese
32 Hiro Shima Japanese
33 Hideo Yamamoto Japanese
34 Anatoli Boukreev Kazakhi
35 Krzysztof Wielicki Polish
39 Lorenzo Ortiz Spanish
40 Javier Olivar Spanish
42 Pepe Garces Spanish
42 Sergei Penzov Russian
43 Igor Benkin Russian
44 Terzyul Vladislav Ukrainian
45 Mstislav Gorbenko Ukrainian

Question: I see you are listed as the ninth person to Summit K2. Since it is old news now, can you tell us what was the order of the summiteers on that
expedition including yourself?

Mr. Ashraf Aman: It was Joint Expedition of Pakistan/Japan. Total There were 35 climber from Japan and 5 from Pakistan 

1.Three japans Climbers succeeded in first attempt
2.Second attempt one Pakistani three Japanese with no success
3.Three japans and myself with success

Question: As I understand it, few Pakistani Climbers are allowed to Summit K2, most are used as porters, unlike Everest where Sherpa climbers do the work but also are normally allowed to attempt the Summit. Is this true?

Mr. Ashraf Aman: This is not true, Pakistani high porters are also allowed to climb the K-2. But as compare to Sherpas, Pakistani high porters are not skilled enough. They are not trained properly. Whatever they do, they do it by their own and by previous experience. There are total four Pakistani climbers who have summitted K-2 and two of us are high altitude porters. I was a member of Pak-Japan K-2 expedition. As we compare K-2 with Everest we hardly have 5 to 8 expeditions every year and few of them take high altitude porters with them. This is also a reason of being a small number of local K-2 climbers. While on the other eight thousand peaks in Pakistan there are many good climbers who are ready to climb. So far there has not been a Pakistani expedition organized to K-2.

Question: What do you see as the future of climbing K2? Meaning do you see guided expeditions, more assistance given to individuals, or about the same as now?

Mr. Ashraf Aman: Now K-2 is very easy [Easy is relative to how good you are.] with modern equipment, only need good weather and of course experience, if some expeditions Sponsor they can afford guided expedition.

Question: It is an honor to speak with you. I was wondering if you could tell us more about the efforts to rescue Eric Escoffier and if his body was ever  found.

Mr. Ashraf Aman: For me it was one of the saddest news, because I knew Eric, he was not only my client but also a good friend above all he was a very nice and kindhearted human being. I was shocked when I heard the news of his disappearance. I have been searching for him in snow and I did heli search as well, even I sent my guides to different parts. Still I ask my high porters to take a look for him on the mountain and all comes with no  positive response. We are still thinking of him. He was a very good climber, but they risk their lives and that's what mountaineers make unique in the sports. I think his body is somewhere under heavy avalanches.

May his soul rest in peace.

Mr. Ashraf Aman

For more on Mr. Ashraf Aman see here.

More questions for Mr. Ashraf Aman ? submit to mail2006@everestnews.com 

wpe2.jpg (2012 bytes)

Daily News and Notes, what made this site famous among Everest climbers

Updated Everyday !

 

     

Send Mail to mail2006@everestnews.com.   Copyrightę1998, 1999, 2000, 2001. EverestNews.com  All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes. Read it.

 

 

    

Where to get the News and Expedition reports !

 

 

 The Best Source for Gear On-line

 

Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
  
and more here