Unlike the other seven summits Carstensz is a rock climb of moderate difficulty. (5.8m for short steps but most of the climbing is scrambling). While all short technical sections will have fixed lines, climbers should possess basic rock climbing skills. Our past expeditions proved to be fantastic all-around experiences and each climb culminated with 100% summit success!

HISTORY OF IRIAN JAYA

Irian Jaya occupies the western half of New Guinea. This island is located immediately south of the equator, and is the world's second largest island, following Greenland. Irian Jaya's climate is primarily a function of topography. The low lying north and south sides of the island possess great tropical jungles, while the mountain ranges exhibit very temperate weather conditions. The mountains run east to west and rise to 16,023ft (4,884m) at Carstensz Pyramid.

In 1961, the Harvard Peabody Museum sponsored a major expedition to the Grand A Valley to document the Dani's "stone age" culture (Peter Matthiessen's Under the Mountain Wall). Wamena, the site of the valley's airstrip, has grown into a small town, but in general, the only big changes since then are that tribal fighting and cannibalism have ended.

Beyond the Grand Valley of the Baliem River, there are many other groups living in smaller valleys. These people were not contacted, by the west, until the 1960's and 1970's, when missionaries began penetrating these remote regions. In the highlands to the east of the Baliem River, the Yali, Mek, and Kim-Yal people comprise some of the other large tribal groups. They live in spectacular mountain country and exhibit their own unique cultural lifestyles and dress, wearing various selections of rattan waist hoops and penis gourds.

Irian Jaya provides a panoply of Old World tropical species. This is due to the land bridge linking both Australia and New Guinea during the last ice age. We will encounter an exceptional diversity of flora with nearly 90% of its species endemic to the island.

ABOUT CARSTENSZ PYRAMID: At 16,023ft (4,884 m), Carstensz Pyramid, or Puncak Jaya ("Victory Peak") as the Indonesians call it, is located in the western central highlands and is the highest peak in Oceana, Australiasia continent. The mountain was named after Jan Carstensz, a Dutch explorer who was the first European to sight the peak. In 1962, Heinrich Harrer became the first foreigner to reach the peak. His book, I Come from the Stone Age, provides excellent reading about climbing Carstensz and other peaks in the area as well as his experiences while living with the Dani.

The route on Carstensz Pyramid follows a series of gullies up the north face for 500m of solid rock before breaking out on the ridge. Riddled with notches, the summit ridge undulates for half a kilometer from this point to the top. One of the gaps is 20m deep, and you will rappel this overhanging pitch and leave a rope fixed to jumar on our return. On the descent you will rappel short distances and down-climb most of the way. The rock is extremely good, rarely loose, and always provides good friction even in wet weather.

The rock climbing difficulty on Carstensz is up to 5.8 for short steps, but most of the climbing is scrambling. It is important that you have basic rock climbing skills and are comfortable with rappelling and jumaring. Short technical sections will need fixed lines allowing you to either free climb or jumar. These fixed lines have been a crucial part you success rate.

In the highland areas, daytime temperatures should range between 75° and 85°F, with most evenings about 45°F. Expect warm afternoon showers which may turn cool if encountered on a mountain pass. Closer to Carstensz, snow or inclement weather may occur. Temperatures can range from 28° to 60°F with sunshine occasionally in the mornings, then rainfall in the afternoons and evenings. Winds are variable and can be strong.

With all climbing of this type, the climbing is high risk with death possible.

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps

   Hestra
   Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
   Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here