Mt. Everest 2005: Indian Airforce Everest Expedition: Ropes and frostbite

Update here

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Update 5/25/2005: Dear EverestNews.com, As u would be aware Russel Brice had taken the responsibility of fixing ropes on the North side. Most teams were rather frustrated at the ropes not being in position as late as 18th. We accordingly asked for a meeting with him in which he flatly refused to send his Sherpas to fix rope for the 21/22 window saying  that he needed the Sherpas for sending gear and oxygen for his clients. He also said that anyone who wanted to climb should either wait tilll he finds time to fix ropes or do it themselves. A few teams viz Norwegian, Indian Army, Chinese and Indian Air Force then got together and decided to fix the ropes on 21st. For reasons unknown the Chinese team did not send their Sherpa to fix rope. The other 3 teams kept their promise and fixed rope till 2nd step. Russel somehow had a change of heart and sent 4 Sherpas to carry rope from North Col to Camp III.

That is the story. If we had not taken the initiative the ropes would not have been up. Unfortunately our 4 member team had to turn back from 8600m because of oxygen and crampon problems and because 2 members were frostbitten.

Amit Chowdhury Leader IAF Team

The IAF team has thirty men and is leaving for Everest on March 29th. The expedition will be led by veteran mountaineer Wg Cdr Amit Chowdhury. This is the first Indian Air Force Everest expedition.

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