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  Mt. Everest 2005: Big Green Everest Expedition Update


 

Update: Advanced Base Camp - May 3, 8:45 AM (Climb Day 22) Greg and Dan successfully completed their climb to Camp 2. On April 27 (CD 16) they made the 13 mile trek from BC to ABC. There was steady snow fall for most of the trip, but they were able to stay on route without difficulty. The trip took 9 hours. After a day's rest they climbed to the North Col on Aril 29 (CD 18) and to stay the night. Fewer climbers were on the route this time as snow storms were forecast for the Everest area.  Their Sherpas, who remained at ABC, came up to the Col early the next morning (CD 19) for the climb to Camp 2. The climb to Camp 2 covers the most exposed section of the North Ridge. Winds were strong and wind chill was well below zero. Skin would begin ache within seconds of being exposed. They ascended on fixed ropes with crampons. The first three quarters of the climb was on snow covered slope. The last quarter was up loose rock and shale.  None of the terrain was technically difficult, but the trip was exhausting.  It took 8 hours. The last hour was the most taxing. Wind gusts, loose rock and the lack of oxygen slowed movement to step, rest, step. Their heart rate monitors registered a constant 160 to 170 bpm.

Camp 2 at 25,600 feet is just below the critical 26,000 foot level. Above this level even an acclimated climber's body begins shut down from lack of oxygen. Dan and Greg spent the night in a two man tent, dressed in their "8000 meter" down suits and inside extreme temperature down bags. They were still cold.  Dinner was chili heated on a small high altitude stove. They estimated winds the next morning, May 2 (CD  20), at over 60 mph. When the winds subsided the team descended to ABC without incident.  This was an acclimatization trip so they did not use oxygen. When the make their summit attempt they will start on oxygen at Camp 2.  This will allow their bodies to burn more calories, which will increase strength and stamina and keep them warmer.

Greg and Dan plan to rest at ABC and then move back to BC on May 4 (CD). Their acclimatization period now complete they will rest at BC and wait for the weather to improve. It is early in the climb period for Everest.  The normal window for summiting is mid to late May. The current forecast calls for snow over the Everest area for next week. Snow on the mountain is dry and packed firm by the wind. Dan and Greg feel this should improve the footing. Both men are feeling good, no health issues. They avoid contact with other climbers as much as possible. Some climbers have caught a flu like bug and left. Once sick your strength drains, even at BC, and it is difficult to recover.

Dispatches

BIG GREEN EVEREST EXP (USA)  
Leaving for Tibet on 5-Apr  
CLIMBING MEMBERS CLIMBING SHERPAS
Mr. Daniel David Protz Mr. Ang Mingma Sherpa
Mr. Gregory Peter Vadasdi Mr. Mingma Dorjee Sherpa

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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