Mt. Everest 2005: Big Green Everest Expedition Update

Update: Advanced Base Camp - May 3, 8:45 AM (Climb Day 22) Greg and Dan successfully completed their climb to Camp 2. On April 27 (CD 16) they made the 13 mile trek from BC to ABC. There was steady snow fall for most of the trip, but they were able to stay on route without difficulty. The trip took 9 hours. After a day's rest they climbed to the North Col on Aril 29 (CD 18) and to stay the night. Fewer climbers were on the route this time as snow storms were forecast for the Everest area.  Their Sherpas, who remained at ABC, came up to the Col early the next morning (CD 19) for the climb to Camp 2. The climb to Camp 2 covers the most exposed section of the North Ridge. Winds were strong and wind chill was well below zero. Skin would begin ache within seconds of being exposed. They ascended on fixed ropes with crampons. The first three quarters of the climb was on snow covered slope. The last quarter was up loose rock and shale.  None of the terrain was technically difficult, but the trip was exhausting.  It took 8 hours. The last hour was the most taxing. Wind gusts, loose rock and the lack of oxygen slowed movement to step, rest, step. Their heart rate monitors registered a constant 160 to 170 bpm.

Camp 2 at 25,600 feet is just below the critical 26,000 foot level. Above this level even an acclimated climber's body begins shut down from lack of oxygen. Dan and Greg spent the night in a two man tent, dressed in their "8000 meter" down suits and inside extreme temperature down bags. They were still cold.  Dinner was chili heated on a small high altitude stove. They estimated winds the next morning, May 2 (CD  20), at over 60 mph. When the winds subsided the team descended to ABC without incident.  This was an acclimatization trip so they did not use oxygen. When the make their summit attempt they will start on oxygen at Camp 2.  This will allow their bodies to burn more calories, which will increase strength and stamina and keep them warmer.

Greg and Dan plan to rest at ABC and then move back to BC on May 4 (CD). Their acclimatization period now complete they will rest at BC and wait for the weather to improve. It is early in the climb period for Everest.  The normal window for summiting is mid to late May. The current forecast calls for snow over the Everest area for next week. Snow on the mountain is dry and packed firm by the wind. Dan and Greg feel this should improve the footing. Both men are feeling good, no health issues. They avoid contact with other climbers as much as possible. Some climbers have caught a flu like bug and left. Once sick your strength drains, even at BC, and it is difficult to recover.

Dispatches

Built to handle a myriad of different climbing pursuits, the Ultralight Universal is our best selling crampon. This crampon lives for trekking, glacier travel, or steep couloirs and snowfields. Totally adjustable Zytel straps make this crampon durable and easy to use. Fits everything from moon boots to flip-flops, our lightest crampon available. Weight: 590g Points: 10. See more here.

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes

   Chaco

   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps

   Hestra
   Helmets

   HighGear

   HornyToad
   Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here