Mt. Everest 2005: Big Green Everest Expedition: There is only one route up the mountain

Update: Base Camp -  May 12, 9:00 AM (Climb Day 31)

It has been a weather waiting game for BGE and the other North Side teams. Greg and Dan delayed their trip to ABC due the strong winds above 25,000 ft. The weather has been pleasant at BC. They have taken a few hikes in the area, played more chess and consumed more Lhasa rice beer. On Monday they rented a motorcycle from an enterprising local to visit Brazilian friends staying at a hostel down the Rongbuk Valley.  Returning, the clutch failed and they had to walk back to BC. That proved to be a good endurance building exercise. Most teams are at BC. Conditions at ABC or at even the North Col are not bad, however, there is no point in being at higher altitudes unless a weather window is going to open. It is better to stay at BC and conserve strength.

The jet stream is forecast to move off Everest early next week bringing lighter winds near the summit and a possible summit window a few days later.  Greg and Dan plan to move to ABC May 13 or 14 (CD 32/33). The Sherpas are leaving BC today for ABC. From ABC the Sherpas will move up the North Ridge to check tents and equipment. The BGE team are all in good health and feel ready for the summit.

Dan estimates there are over 200 climbers on the North Side this year. Many are in large guided groups. Some are experienced, fit, and able, while others are less so. There is only one route up the mountain, if large numbers start out at the first weather opening all climbers will be slowed and safety could be compromised. Dan and Greg have some concern about this.

Dispatches

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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