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  Mt. Everest 2005: Team Alongi 2005 Update with big news for North Side Everest climbers

Dispatch Two: I left on Sunday March 20th, for Kathmandu. My departure is roughly a week in advance of the rest of the team members. Many details must be sorted out before the team arrives in Nepal. I've got nearly 1000lbs of luggage, which is comprised of tents, food, climbing hardware, ropes, communications equipment, personal items, COFFEE, etc...  The Tibetan Mountaineering Association (TMA) recently took full responsibility for fixing the ropes on the entire route, all the way to the summit! Originally, I planned to bring ~1200 meters of rope on the expedition, but due to the recent changes in mountain logistics I've decided to only bring 400 meters of kermantal rope. The ropes will be used for replacing established fixed lines if need be, anchoring tents at the high camps, climbing and rescue work, etc...

We have decided to move the arrival dates up a few days due to recent changes in the political environment in Nepal. The rest of the team is now scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu on March 27th, and we'll begin our drive to the border on the 29th.

I would also like to introduce our newest member of the expedition! Marne Schwartz of Seattle Washington USA will be trekking with our team to ABC. Marne is a very close friend of Al Baal, one of our fearless Everest climbers, and will bring a gentle level of calmness to the team. Marne will also be helping me organize some of the team gear once we arrive in base camp. Welcome aboard Marne! 

Wish our team members luck as we begin our great adventure. The next dispatch will be from the mysterious land of Nepal!

From the USA:  Brook Alongi


Editorial Note: Several climbers have been lobbying the TMA or CMA to take over fixing of the ropes on the north side. We have NOT confirmed Brook's news yes, but we have no reason to believe it is not true. A big and major change on Everest!

About Brook:  With 15 years extensive experience in all aspects of climbing and backcountry travel, Brook has what it takes to provide you with a safe and enjoyable adventure.   He's very comfortable on all types of technical terrain, be it an ice climb in BC, the side of El Capitan, or negotiating the infamous Canaleta on Aconcagua.  He has climbed in the US, Canada, Alaska, Mexico, South America and Asia.  This year he climbed Cho Oyu's Northwest face without oxygen.  He'll attempt Mt Everest's Northridge in the Spring of 2005 and Cho Oyu again in the fall.

Brook strives to make your experience with Ogawa Mountain Adventures an enjoyable and safe one.  Helping people achieve their goals and fulfill their dreams is important, but not nearly as important as coming home safely, every time.  To Brook, client safety is top priority, no questions.

His leadership abilities and charming wit bring smiles and increase important team bonds, even when times are tough. Brook is a nationally registered EMT as well as a certified Wilderness-EMT.

He extends his passion of helping people by frequently participating in mountain rescue missions throughout the Cascades in the US.  By this, he hopes to increase his promise to you that Ogawa Mountain Adventures is here to provide you with a margin of safety that many expedition companies can't

Brook I spent 5 years in the US Navy after high school. 4 of them were spent in Japan where his ship(s) were home ported.  Climbing the mountains of Japan was spectacular and the winter ice climbing even better.  He climbed as often as he could find partners.  If his sailor buddies where to hung over to go out, "I'd just pack my Ice tools and go alone. Usually, a group of Japanese climbers would ask me to join them on the ice.  They could practice their English and I could lead a few routes.  Talk about killing two birds with one stone!  During my enlistment I sailed on two full length Persian Gulf cruises.  I didn't like what we were doing there and both times my ships pulled out for the gulf, it killed my plans to climb in Alaska and Nepal. They offered me a very large sum of money (enough to climb Everest in fact) to re-enlist, but my heart was in the mountains, so I followed it and came home." Brook

"I honestly had no plans to climb Everest this year.  The spark came about when I was on the summit of Cho Oyu and the North Ridge of Everest was literally in my face.  It was nothing more than a spectacular view at the time.  However, on my way down to Cho Oyu base camp I began to think about what it would be like to do the route that I had just scene.  I immediately began making preparations the day I returned to Kathmandu.  Within 2 months I had assembled 5 clients for a North Ridge expedition.  This is how most climbers get their inspiration for the next climb; this is just on a much bigger scale.  Most climbers open their guide book(s) and think, "which line looks like my next adventure.  Ah, there it is..."


* Probar is supplying all energy bars for the expedition.

* Montrail has helped supply me with shoes for training.

* Nike Vision is supplying my sunglasses for training, triathlon racing and climbing.

* Nike Timing has helped supply me with a Lance 4 altimeter.

* Petzl has given me one of only two prototype axes (Cosmi'tec) for use on the expedition.  (Very innovative and ultra light design, I think it should be standard on this type of climb)

* Feathered Friends of Seattle, WA has helped supply custom jackets and sleeping bags.

* Second Ascent of Seattle, WA deserves honorable mention for going above beyond the levels of standard customer service as a climbing equipment retailer.  Their high level of attention has helped with the gear aspect of logistics for this Everest expedition immensely. 

* Ogawa Mountain Adventures is providing logistics to the summit.  

Deuter, who has supplied my pack.  A Guide 45+ model

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.




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