Josef Simunek leads
the strong Czech team to attempt the
4/4/2005 and 4/3/2005: It was
a fair 12-hour sleep, but we really deserve it. We know that we can expect two
days of "doing nothing", which was caused by coincidence. We can't be in KTM,
because during the strike it could become impossible to get out and we could
be stucked there for many days, on the other hand, the visa which is necessary
for entering China shall be valid from April, the 5th. So, we spent the days
of obligatory rest in Kodari.
In the Kodari village there is a border crossing between Nepal and the
communist China. The crossing itself is situated on the bridge over the Bhote
Kosi river. On the Nepali side there are simple houses clued directly next to
the road. On the other side of the bridge there is a terrific communist
architecture represented by monstrous buildings made of concrete, glass,
chrome and a red flag on the pole waiting for us. It looks like they would
like to show us, what they are capable of. If a man looks closely, he can see
many of the houses are empty, some of them are destroyed by stone avalanches.
There is a peace in the
streets of Kodari - or better said in the single street which goes through the
village - only wheels of barbed wire lying along the street and the police
closing hour at 8 p.m. reminds us that not everything is as it should be.
On Sunday we go to a local
Buddhist monastery located approx. 300 vertical meters above the village, so
it's not a very long journey for us. We are welcomed very heartly by the monks
and treated to a traditional Tibetan tea with milk, yak butter and salt.
Further they explain us in perfect English that one of the lamas died and a
funeral ceremony shall take part tomorrow.
We also can't miss hot water
springs in the village of Tatopani, which lies about 2 km down the valley. For
10 rupies we get inside and have the opportunity to see, how local bath
functions. There are two parts separated by a concrete wall - one for men, one
for women - and there is everybody washing, cleaning, scrubbing.. Boys don't
hesitate and go to take the bath. For girls it's a bit more difficult. Local
women sport a special bathing sari, and they are washing practically only
under it, it's not permit table to show anything more. A long sleep is
awaiting us after a good dinner.
In the morning we agree on
the further program. For sure we will go to see the lama's funeral, it's just
a short walk up-hill. Also we have to count all luggage, check everything and
prepare it for the Sherpas. Despite the fact it's Monday, there's almost no
traffic, no tourists. We don't know whether it's the strike in KTM or one of
the religious celebrations called Dassain. We'll know tomorrow - either we'll
pass through without any problems or not ...
Other part of our journey
goes through the village of Zhangma, the Chinese border-village, over a pass
in 5000mts, further to the village of Nyalam situated in the altitude of 3700
3/31/2005: The flight from
Prague to Kathmandu was quite smooth, without any complication. At the airport
we were picked up by our agent, the owner of the agency, Pasang Dawa. He
accompanied us to a simple hotel and despite a very late hour (the time
difference between CET and the local time in Nepal is +3 ? hrs.) we discussed
our time-table for the next days, as well as a current political situation in
Nepal. According to local sources, some Maoist demonstrations and strikes are
said to start on Sunday, April 3rd. Of course, the most affected would be
Kathmandu. Based on this information, we agreed to postpone our departure from
KTM already to 2.4., i.e. 5 days sooner than we have originally planed.
The day started very early and was quite busy, as we had many things to
arrange. Ivan was charged with a probably most difficult task - to pick up the
cargo at the airport. Under an assistance of Pasang's employer Beam he managed
everything easily-as he usually does. The others had to check and pack tents,
which will be used in base camp, as well as in altitude camps, buy large
amount of food and other things necessary for almost two months stay under the
mountain. After an extremely sunny and hot day, to which we were not used to
from our homes after a long winter, we have finally got everything ready.
Around 7 p.m. we loaded all the duffle bags on two off-road pick-ups. Many
Nepalis were standing around, helpful was this time none of them.. After the
hard day we deserved a delicious, traditional Nepali dinner, to which we were
invited by Pasang and his wife to their residence.
In the early morning we ran from
the hotel to the touristic part of KTM - Thamel to get the last European
breakfast. Thanks to Pepino and his experience we drop in a local kind of a
bus, which brings us a bit closer to Thamel. After a good breakfast we hurry
up back to the hotel, pack our personal luggage and leave to Kodari. The route
goes over the ridges until we reach the valley of Bhote Kosi river, where it
is possible to try rafting or bungee-jumping from a bridge over an extremely
deep valley. Finally, we reach Kodari in the early afternoon and are happy to
check-in the place, where we will stay next three nights. The small lodge is
called Lhasa. We spend the afternoon on a roof of the lodge and - for the
first time after long months of preparations, planning, packing, organizing
all the things necessary for the expedition and also important for keeping our
business operating during the long time of our absence ended with the one-day
stress in KTM - we finally rest. None of us belongs to the people, who
regularly rest on Sundays, all of us are used to work 7 days in a week many
hours, but for now it was enough. Therefore we are not upset, when someone
"smart" switches-off the electricity in the entire village around 9 p.m. and
we are forced to go to bed.
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