Tibet - Chomolonzo Expedition 05: Mission accomplished!

Chomolonzo  North and Central

Saturday, May 7th: Mission accomplished. Opening a new itinerary on a virgin summit of more than 7,000m is a rare exploit in the Himalayas. Today the team Christian Trommsdorf, Yannick Graziani, and Patrick Wagnon reached the summit of Chomo-Lonzo's North peak (point marked 7,199m on maps) at 7:OOp.m. local time (1:00p.m. Paris time) after 13 hours of continuous effort.

After a difficult night at 6,850m due to violent winds and freezing temperatures, the team left at daybreak, reached the summit at 7:00p.m, and having decided to descend despite night fall, regained their bivouac at approximately 11:00p.m. local time.

The climb was difficult and hardwork particularly in overcoming the smooth rock steps at 6,950m and 7,000m. Having expended much energy in the descent as well as the ascent, the team will spend the night at the bivouac and will probably redescend to base camp sometime Sunday.

The other two teams attacking the west face (team Christophe Moulin, Yann Bonneville, and Aymeric Clouet and team Stephane Benoist and Patrick Glairon-Rappaz) were forced to turn around without reaching their objectives, but will most likely be ready to climb again after a couple days of rest at base camp.

French Expedition to Chomo-Lonzo: From Jean-Claude MARMIER, chairman of Himalayan Committee

Some information on the French Chomo-Lonzo expedition

The Himalayan Committee of French Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Federation is organizing the expedition to Chomo-Lonzo this spring. The peak, located in Tibet, is a subsidiary peak north of Makalu and has been only climbed twice : first in 1954 from the Nepalese side by the French team Lionel TERRAY and Jean COUZY on their reconnaissance trip to Makalu and second in 1993 from Tibet by a Japanese expedition. This year we have a very strong and experienced eight member team :

Stephanne BENOIST

Yann BONNEVILLE

Aymeric CLOUET

Patrick GLAIRON-RAPPAZ

Yannick GRAZIANI

Christophe MOULIN

Christian TROMMSDORFF

Patrick WAGNON

Our goal is to climb both virgin peaks : N and central summits (7,199 m and 7,560 m) It is a lightweight expedition, without camps or fixed ropes. They are climbing as three independent parties :

1 - Christophe MOULIN, Aymeric CLOUET and Yann BONNEVILLE

2 - Stephanne BENOIST and Patrick GLAIRON-RAPPAZ

3 - Christian TROMMSDORFF, Yannick GRAZIANI and Patrick WAGNON

The groups reached base camp in the Kangshung valley on April 13th. After three weeks of acclimatization and reconnaissance they are now ready for the summit attempt. Today, Christian Trommsdorff's group is at 6,800 m on the NW ridge of N peak; they hope to summit within two or three days; The Christophe MOULIN and Stephanne BENOIST teams are at the foot of central peak at 6,100 m. Their intention is to open two new routes. All groups are summiting in a single push and they will probably attempt the complete traverse of Chomo-Lonzo up to Sakietang La. Mountain conditions are not perfect.  Their first intention to climb the tremendous NE face had to be revised due to heavy snowfalls and avalanche danger; the decision was made to go with the safer W face. Climbing two virgin seven thousands peaks is very exciting and challenging. Further information will be delivered very soon.

Members:

Nepali Staff

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