Chomolonzo North and Central
Sunday, May 22nd, 8:30p.m. local
time, direct connection with Christian Trommsdorff :
finally finished the last rappels, we are at 6,200 meters on the rock rubble
dominating the Kangshung glacier. All the difficulties are behind us, nothing
to stop us getting back to base camp. We'll descend all night if we have to.
Actually last night was much harder than expected. We didn't get to our
bivouac before nightfall, so with rappels and delicate traverses in the dark -
everything took much much longer and we only arrived at our 7,100 meter
bivouac at 4 in the morning. It was really very very tough !!!! Now it's just
attained by the 2005 Chomo-Lonzo expedition: two virgin
summits and 3 new routes of high difficulty in pure alpine styles!
the whole team re-groups in Kharta. Then it's two days by jeep non stop to
Kathmandou, departure the evening of the 27th, and arrival early morning on
the 28th in France.
Earlier Update: The suspense on Chomo-Lonzo:
May 20th 8:30p.m. local time direct liaison with Christian Trommsdorff at
their 7,100 m bivouac :"After last night's snow, the
day was sunny but hard work. We were able to advance by 100m, but preffered to
redescend to 7,100 m and leave our ropes in place for tomorrow's ascent since
there isn't enough room to install a bivvy at the highest point we reached.
The climbing is more difficult than expected: poor quality rock, risky
traverses, overhanging passages requiring the use of the most refined
artificial climbing techniques - you name it, and all this above seven
thousand meters. The Chomo-Lonzo is really tough.... All three of us have been
to tested to the max and tomorrow, we will once again push ourselves. Leaving
the bivouac as light as possible, we're going for the summit all in one day.
And it is our last chance; Yan Giezendanner is announcing the return of high
winds for Sunday.
To continue in such
conditions on such a mountain would only be suicide."The yaks have arrived to
help clear base camp... .. more news tomorrow !
CHOMO-LONZO : THEY DID IT !
May 21st, 7:30p.m. local time direct telephone liaison with Christian
"We made it! We reached Chomo-Lonzo's central summit at 6:15p.m. after almost
13 hours of climbing. There were a couple of rock problems to master before we
finally reached the snow slope leading to the summit. It's very cold; the wind
is blowing in gusts from the west. Right now, we are descending and are
currently at around 7,400 meters and are confident we will arrive at our
7,100m bivouac before nightfall. Although all of us are completely exhausted,
we are super happy and can't wait to call our families, Yan Giezendanner our
weatherman, and others ......."
Chomo-Lonzo expedition epilogue: Of this Chomo-Lonzo expedition which has left
us hanging on the edge of our seats for almost 2 months, we only have some
hours left until our friends reach the safety of base camp (and the wind is
forecasted to hold off until then). Then we can finally let out our breath !
Congratulations to the whole team. You were great and you've impressed us all
Expedition to Chomo-Lonzo: From Jean-Claude MARMIER, chairman of Himalayan
information on the French Chomo-Lonzo expedition
Himalayan Committee of French Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Federation is
organizing the expedition to Chomo-Lonzo this spring. The peak, located in
Tibet, is a subsidiary peak north of Makalu and has been only climbed twice :
first in 1954 from the Nepalese side by the French team Lionel TERRAY and Jean
COUZY on their reconnaissance trip to Makalu and second in 1993 from Tibet by
a Japanese expedition. This year we have a very strong and experienced eight
member team :
Our goal is
to climb both virgin peaks : N and central summits (7,199 m and 7,560 m) It is
a lightweight expedition, without camps or fixed ropes. They are climbing as
three independent parties :
Christophe MOULIN, Aymeric CLOUET and Yann BONNEVILLE
Stephanne BENOIST and Patrick GLAIRON-RAPPAZ
Christian TROMMSDORFF, Yannick GRAZIANI and Patrick WAGNON
reached base camp in the Kangshung valley on April 13th. After three weeks of
acclimatization and reconnaissance they are now ready for the summit attempt.
Today, Christian Trommsdorff's group is at 6,800 m on the NW ridge of N peak;
they hope to summit within two or three days; The Christophe MOULIN and
Stephanne BENOIST teams are at the foot of central peak at 6,100 m. Their
intention is to open two new routes. All groups are summiting in a single push
and they will probably attempt the complete traverse of Chomo-Lonzo up to
Sakietang La. Mountain conditions are not perfect. Their first intention to
climb the tremendous NE face had to be revised due to heavy snowfalls and
avalanche danger; the decision was made to go with the safer W face. Climbing
two virgin seven thousands peaks is very exciting and challenging. Further
information will be delivered very soon.
NAME IN FULL
Mr. Christian Trommsdorff
Mr. Benoist Stephane
Mr. Wagnon Patrick
Mr. Bonneville Yann Nicolas
Mr. Glairon Rappaz Patrice
Mr. Clouet Aymeric
Mr. Moulin Christophe
Mr. Graziani Yannick
Mr. Karma Gyalzen Sherpa
Mr. Ong Chen Sherpa
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