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©EverestNews.com |
INTERNATIONAL EVEREST EXP |
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Leaving for Tibet on 5-Apr |
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CLIMBING MEMBERS |
CLIMBING SHERPAS |
Mr. Kenneth John Hill-USA |
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Mr. Johann Goger -AUSTRIA |
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Mr. Vitor Negrete -BRAZIL |
Man Bahadur Tamang |
Mr. Rodrigo Chaddad
Raineri -BRAZIL |
Lila Bahadur Tamang |
Mr. Clayton Eduardo
Conservani -BRAZIL |
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Update June 3, 2005:
We are going back home!
Vitor Negrete and Rodrigo
Raineri, from the Try On Expedition II / Everest 2005, are in Advanced Base
Camp, at 6,400 meters, beginning their return to Brazil.
"It was more difficult to
descend than to reach the summit. Being in ABC, despite being a high place
means safety for us, especially because what had happened to us". These were
the first words of Vitor Negrete, when he arrived to Advanced Base Camp, at
6,400 meters this morning (Brasilia time) after having reached the summit of
Mount Everest, 8,850 meters, by the North Face (Tibet).
Vitor and Rodrigo Raineri -
who got to 50 meters from the summit and had to take the hard decision to
return - suffered a lot during the descent. Rodrigo said that "we turned
around and, at 8,100 meters our Sherpa was supposed to leave a tent with a
stove, sleeping bag and food to spend the night. We got there around six in
the afternoon and there was nothing, no tent, no sleeping bag, no stove,
nothing!"
He continued explaining that
"we were above 8,000 meters, on Everest, getting dark and without anything, it
was crazy! We decided to continue until we found shelter to spend the night".
To make things worst, Vitor
Negrete lost his headlamp - the lantern that is used on the head to have free
hands - during the climb. "The day of the summit attack had already been hard
and when we thought we would go to rest, we had to descend even more. In the
dark, only with Rodrigo's headlamp, it was really complicated. Until we found
an empty tent of our American friends and we slept there".
Rodigo said that "during the
descent we fell a lot of times because of the loose stones. Our clothes were
ripped and when we got to the tent of the Americans, I only had thermal
isolation. It was already in the early morning, around 1 in the morning. We
slept to wait for the daybreak and during our sleep we had a little frostbite
in the limbs because we were dehydrated. Water had run out at 3 in the
afternoon".
On the next day (03/06),
around 11 hours (Tibet time), a little above 7,000 meters we found a tent of
the Indian expedition where we could, finally, melt ice to hydrate.
Exhausted, they reached ABC
by the end of the afternoon (Tibet time) where they were received with
macaroni, offered by the Russian expedition. They were examined right there
by a doctor that didn't find any grave problem on the Brazilians.
Happy with the result of the
Try On Expedition II / Everest 2005, Rodrigo and Vitor say that they learned a
lot with Sagarmatha, Goddess of the Sky, as the Tibetans call the highest
mountain of the world. "This experience is very valuable, we had a lot of
stories to tell and to remember, but now we only want to go back to Brazil".
The members of the Try On
Expedition II / Everest 2005 - Vitor Negrete, Rodrigo Raineri, Ghilherme "Totó"
Setani and TV Globo's journalist, Clayton Conservani - should be back in Sao
Paulo next week.
The Try On Expedition II /
2005 had the sponsorship of Try On and the support of Landscape / Cía.
Athletica / Green Life / Grade VI / SoloDesing.
06/02/2005 - Vitor Negrete
reached the top of the World!
At noon, Tibet time (around 3
in the morning, Brasilia time), Vitor Negrete, from Try On Expedition II /
Everest 2005, could reach the summit of the highest mountain of the world at
8,8500 meters.
Rodrigo Raineri reached 8,800
meters and had to take the decision, which surely was the hardest of his life,
to turn around because it was getting late and he would face risks while
returning to Camp 3.
The two members of the Try On
Expedition II / Everest 2005 reached Camp 3 and are okay.
Vitor Negrete met another
couple sponsored by Try ON, who reached the summit by the South Face, Waldemar
Niclevicz and Irivan Burda, on the summit. Brazil didn't reach the summit of
Mount Everest since 10 years ago and this year, despite an atypical and
difficult season, three Brazilian climbers did.
Translated from Portuguese by
Jorge Rivera
Update:
They left C3 just after 22h00 on
31st, Nepal time.
But because they felt it was
too windy and cold, they turned back just before the first step. They will
wait today at C3, if the wind calms down a bit they hope to try again next
night.
Update 5/26/2005: Hans Goger just came back from Tingri and
he is planning to go up with another Austrian.
Hen Hill has went home...
The climbers from BRAZIL
will head back up soon...
Three climbers from
Brazil,
one American, and one Austria make up the International Team. This is really
just a group of climbers on a permit, with the exception that, we assume the
climbers from Brasil are
climbing together. Man Bahadur Tamang, the experienced excellent climber,
supports this expedition along with Lila Bahadur Tamang.
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