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 Mt. Everest 2005: Leipziger huge dimensions of Everest | |||||||||
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Update: 4/28/2005: To understand the huge dimensions of Everest, one have to be on the way to it: Both, the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm have to be crossed. Then one stands in front of the huge Lhotse face and starts feeling the gigantic dimensions of Everest. Accompanied by Lakpa and Nuri (one of our climbing sherpas), we took this way and established Camp 1. There we spent the night from 25. to 26. April. The next day we climbed the next 500 m to Camp 2 which took about three hours. We established Camp 2 and used the day for another acclimatization tour in the lower part of the Lhotse face. Today we returned to Everest Basecamp. These are the hard facts. But I could tell stories for hours. I (Olaf) was in the Khumbu Icefall for the very first time. What an experience! It is a dangerous passage, but fascinating. It is not really difficult to pass this chaos made of cleavages and ceracs. The only way to minimize the risk is to increase the speed of climbing. To cross the ladders over the cleavages requires the most courage. The broadest cleavages are, however, not in the Khumbu Icefall but in the Western Cwm. After about three hours, the Icefall ends and one stands in the Western Cwm. What a breathtaking view! The ways here are endless. And if one has started too late one suffers a heat shock! Who expects 40 degrees Celsius at an altitude of 6000 m? The heat hits you like a hammer. I got headache that remained for the next two days. The initial part of the Western Cwm is the perfect place for Camp 1. Thomas, Lakpa, Nuri and me brought along two tents and the remaining equipment that is necessary to build up the camp. This camp is only used during the initial part of the expedition, later we will climb directly to Camp 2. Therefore, camp 2 will be equipped as an advanced Basecamp. It is situated at the base of the southeast face of the Everest, opposite to the Lhotse. In Camp 2, we spent the second night of our first acclimatization tour But the way to camp 2 was a horror trip because we started too late. I did not expect that the sun arrives at the valley before 8 a.m. already. Therefore, our way to camp 2 became a fight against heat. So we have learnt that it is better, if possible, to avoid the Western Cwm when the sun is shining. This morning we were more clever. We began our descent half past five in the morning and reached the Basecamp at nine. The descend without weight was much faster than expected. Background A German team will attempt the South side of Everest (Nepal). The final team: Olaf Rieck, Thomas Türpe, Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa, Jana Odrich. all members are Germans except Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa (Nepalese)
all ascends listed below were without oxygen Thomas Türpe: born 1961 1994 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 1996 Everest until 8400 m 1999 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 2000 Makalu (8463 m) 2001 Everest until 8700 m 2002 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 2003 Gasherbrum II (8035 m)
Jörg Stingl: born 1961 1996 Mt. Everest until 8500 m 1997 Cho Oyu until 7800 m 1998 Makalu until 8250 m 1999 Manaslu (8163 m) 2001 Mt. Everest (8850 m) 2004 Nanga Parbat (8125 m)
Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa: born 1977 1996 Cho Oyu (8201m) 2000 Everest North (8850 m) 2001 Dhaulagiri (8167 m) 2003 Lhotse (8516 m) 2003 Everest South (8850 m)
Olaf Rieck: born 1964 1999 Cho Oyu (8201 m) Cho Polu (6735 m, first ascend) 2001 Gasherbrum II (8035 m) Hidden Peak until 6500 m 2002 Num Ri (6677 m, first ascend)
Olaf Zill: born 1966 2000 Makalu (8463 m) 2001 Mt. Everest until 8000 m 2002 Dhaulagiri (8167 m) 2003 Cho Oyu (8201 m)
Jana Odrich: born 1974 Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189 m Kilimanjaro 5 895 m
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