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  Mt. Everest 2005 Leipziger: Ascent to camp 4


Although already planned for last Saturday, we could not start our ascent earlier than today. The reason was that is was snowing during the last days and there was an increased risk of avalanches in the Lhotse face. After discussing with Lakpa, I decided to start the climb to camp 4 at the South Col today. Both Lapka and me, we have learned one importing thing: If there is a possibility of getting higher one have to use it because the mountain may don't give you a second chance. It is difficult to set the highest camp at the Everest because it strongly depends on weather. I remember clearly our problems of setting the high camp at the Cho Oyu in 1999 (highest camp is at 7500 m there). We lost a lot of time and power but there was only one short period of good weather. At the moment, the weather is ugly here, but it is still possible to ascend. And 5 days of waiting were long.


The last cleavage before the Western Cwm has to be crossed by means of 5 ladders attached to each other.

 

At the base camp, it starts snowing at about 10 or 11 in the morning. But at this time, we usually arrive already at camp 2 where the sun stays longer. Thursday and Friday were exceptions, all climbers rushed back to the basecamp because of heavy snow at higher altitudes.

 


The Lhotse face at sunset, as viewed from camp 2 (6500 m).

 

Today, we want to climb to Camp 2. On Tuesday we will continue the ascent by climbing the huge Lhotse face. This face starts at an altitude of 6800 m and ends at the 8500 m Lhotse summit. The yellow band and the Geneva Spur, seen on the left, help to orientate oneself at this face. Camp 3 is situated on the same altitude as the base of the Geneva Spur, at about 7250 m. We will pass camp 3 and start traversing left through the yellow band to the South Col, always keeping on the right side of the Geneva Spur. The South Col is a huge notch between Everest and Lhotse, at about 8000 m. This plateau has the size of several soccer fields and will be the place were we built up our two tents.

 

If all things are going fine, I will spend the night at camp 3 while descending and will be back at the basecamp on Thursday. Then we will present the first pictures from there.

Updates

Background

A German team will attempt the South side of Everest (Nepal). The final team: Olaf Rieck, Thomas Türpe, Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa, Jana Odrich.

all members are Germans except Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa (Nepalese)

 

all ascends listed below were without oxygen

Thomas Türpe: born 1961

1994        Cho Oyu (8201 m)

1996 Everest until 8400 m

1999 Cho Oyu (8201 m)

2000 Makalu (8463 m)

2001 Everest until 8700 m

2002    Cho Oyu (8201 m)

2003 Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

 

Jörg Stingl: born 1961

1996        Mt. Everest until 8500 m

1997 Cho Oyu until 7800 m

1998 Makalu until 8250 m

1999 Manaslu (8163 m)

2001 Mt. Everest  (8850 m)

2004 Nanga Parbat (8125 m)

 

Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa: born 1977

1996        Cho Oyu (8201m)

2000 Everest North (8850 m)

2001 Dhaulagiri (8167 m)

2003 Lhotse (8516 m)

2003 Everest South (8850 m)

 

Olaf Rieck: born 1964

1999        Cho Oyu (8201 m)

      Cho Polu (6735 m, first ascend)

2001 Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

      Hidden Peak until 6500 m

2002 Num Ri (6677 m, first ascend)

 

Olaf Zill: born 1966

2000        Makalu (8463 m)

2001 Mt. Everest until 8000 m

2002 Dhaulagiri (8167 m)

2003 Cho Oyu (8201 m)

 

Jana Odrich: born 1974

Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189 m

Kilimanjaro 5 895 m

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