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  Mt. Everest 2005 Leipziger: Thomas is back, two loads at camp 4.


Thomas returned to the basecamp on Tuesday and started to climb camp this morning. He will test his health state and has not a fixed plan yet. If his condition is stable he will climb camp 3 at least two times without returning to the base camp in between. At the moment, the weather here is not the best and all attempts for the summit are delayed this year. So Thomas has still enough time for acclimatization.

Our attempt to set camp 4 at the South Col was only partly successful. There were strong wind all the time. Already at night from Monday to Tuesday, we could not sleep because the wind was so noisy. Despite this, we decided to ascend at five a.m.. Lakpa and me (Olaf) took along our sleeping bag and insulation mat in order to spend the night at camp 3 on the way back. Despite the storm, we advanced fast in the beginning.

When arriving at camp 3, there was the first shock because the tent was completely under snow. Therefore, we had to dig it out at first and lost a lot of time. Because of the strong wind and the danger of getting frostbite, we decided not to climb further. I already had a light frostbite at my face. Dawa, Nuri and Kami continued to the South Col meanwhile, but Kami gave up soon because of the strong wind. Dawa and Nuri made it to the South Col, a nearly heroic performance.


The 45 bis 60 degree steep Lhotse face consists mostly of pure ice.

Lapka and me had a hard night that already began at 11.00 Uhr a.m.. In our 2 square meters tent, with a lot of equipment, we were buried under snow again and again. So we spent 23 hours with digging out the tent every hour. When I went down to the base camp yesterday, there was still strong wind.

Updates

Background

A German team will attempt the South side of Everest (Nepal). The final team: Olaf Rieck, Thomas Türpe, Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa, Jana Odrich.

all members are Germans except Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa (Nepalese)

 

all ascends listed below were without oxygen

Thomas Türpe: born 1961

1994        Cho Oyu (8201 m)

1996 Everest until 8400 m

1999 Cho Oyu (8201 m)

2000 Makalu (8463 m)

2001 Everest until 8700 m

2002    Cho Oyu (8201 m)

2003 Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

 

Jörg Stingl: born 1961

1996        Mt. Everest until 8500 m

1997 Cho Oyu until 7800 m

1998 Makalu until 8250 m

1999 Manaslu (8163 m)

2001 Mt. Everest  (8850 m)

2004 Nanga Parbat (8125 m)

 

Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa: born 1977

1996        Cho Oyu (8201m)

2000 Everest North (8850 m)

2001 Dhaulagiri (8167 m)

2003 Lhotse (8516 m)

2003 Everest South (8850 m)

 

Olaf Rieck: born 1964

1999        Cho Oyu (8201 m)

      Cho Polu (6735 m, first ascend)

2001 Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

      Hidden Peak until 6500 m

2002 Num Ri (6677 m, first ascend)

 

Olaf Zill: born 1966

2000        Makalu (8463 m)

2001 Mt. Everest until 8000 m

2002 Dhaulagiri (8167 m)

2003 Cho Oyu (8201 m)

 

Jana Odrich: born 1974

Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189 m

Kilimanjaro 5 895 m

 

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