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 Mt. Everest 2005 Leipziger: We resign! | |||||||
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Most frustrating is the fact that we have not had any chance. I could not find out to which altitude I would be able to climb. I was higher at other mountains before. Perhaps a supernatural climber could summit under these weather conditions, but it seems that there is none among the expeditions this year. Thomas and me, both we are sure that it is not realistic to summit without additional oxygen if no one had passed the southeast ridge before.
Down at the BC, there is a lot of confusion. There were some succesful summits from North. The leaders of the big commercial teams are under pressure now. No client can made it to the summit if the fix ropes are not installed. And nobody can do this job when the weather is that bad. There is about one week remaining until the route will be closed. By this time, all material has to be down and this takes about four to five days. The problem of the big commercial expeditions is that most of the potential clients may change the side if the probability of getting to the summit is higher via the North route than from South. I was onlooker of a big meeting of the leaders of the commercial expeditions. They decided to apply for an extension of the permits at the Nepalese government. Money does not count! The Sherpas shall be "persuaded" by money to climb the Khumbu icefall again that becomes more and more dangerous every day. It is a fact that the weather will not improve until the official end of the season. And there are still about 122 paying clients at EBC...
I wondered about this discussion, in particular because no Sirdar (the chief of a sherpa team) was there. But they talked about things that affect mostly the Sherpas! And no one accepted the fact that the Everest cannot be pushed from South this year. This is not a human failure but it is difficult to accept any failure nowadays. Thomas and me, both we do not see a chance for success anymore. We will not count on an extension of the season either. On 24th of May we will leave the Everest BC - exhausted and frustrated but healthy Background A German team will attempt the South side of Everest (Nepal). The final team: Olaf Rieck, Thomas Türpe, Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa, Jana Odrich. all members are Germans except Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa (Nepalese)
all ascends listed below were without oxygen Thomas Türpe: born 1961 1994 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 1996 Everest until 8400 m 1999 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 2000 Makalu (8463 m) 2001 Everest until 8700 m 2002 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 2003 Gasherbrum II (8035 m)
Jörg Stingl: born 1961 1996 Mt. Everest until 8500 m 1997 Cho Oyu until 7800 m 1998 Makalu until 8250 m 1999 Manaslu (8163 m) 2001 Mt. Everest (8850 m) 2004 Nanga Parbat (8125 m)
Lakpa Gelbu Sherpa: born 1977 1996 Cho Oyu (8201m) 2000 Everest North (8850 m) 2001 Dhaulagiri (8167 m) 2003 Lhotse (8516 m) 2003 Everest South (8850 m)
Olaf Rieck: born 1964 1999 Cho Oyu (8201 m) Cho Polu (6735 m, first ascend) 2001 Gasherbrum II (8035 m) Hidden Peak until 6500 m 2002 Num Ri (6677 m, first ascend)
Olaf Zill: born 1966 2000 Makalu (8463 m) 2001 Mt. Everest until 8000 m 2002 Dhaulagiri (8167 m) 2003 Cho Oyu (8201 m)
Jana Odrich: born 1974 Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189 m Kilimanjaro 5 895 m
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